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Preload rear wheel bearings
- Thread starter 240L31
- Start date
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
I had the same, ended up torquing up, backing off, torquing up. then a wheel on to give a flywheel effect, then all fell within specs.
IbanezDan51
Well-Known Forum User
You can get different spacers. You need to measure for the correct one.
Though I have had experience of the seals binding too. If you’re turning without a wheel on they will feel stiff.
IbanezDan51
Well-Known Forum User
Hub and stub. If swapping stubs out you will have to remeasure.
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
its a distance piece, their stamped/matched. It wasn't much fun getting them right.
I wouldn't be surprised if they ran them 'loose' in period to free up a bit of HP.
240L31
Club Member
It is clear that there is a spacer and how it works. But why does the FSM recommend to adjust the axle nut torque so that a preload of around 800g at the wheel stud can be measured?
I can't see how increasing the torque past a certain threshold would make any difference in preload.
I can't see how increasing the torque past a certain threshold would make any difference in preload.
I had this issue when I did mine - thanks to @Albrecht 's suggestion, that it could be the plastic dust cover not being full home (even by a fraction of a mm) causing "sticktion", I went back, took it off and drove the dust cover home again, using a big socket and mallet.
It went from what you are experiencing to a very acceptable, within FSM spec. I went from 3.3Kg at the wheel bolts before rotating to between 400g - 600g. I didn't quite believe it could be just the dust cover at first, but it's amazing how it can interfere if not absolutely all the way in.
Try re-installing without the dust cover and test to see if you get the same level of friction / sticktion. As a very final resort, you could always very carefully, trim the edges of the dust cover by say 1mm (facing the wheel side) with a scalpel - it shouldn't affect it's operation as it's only pushing against the outer race of the bearings and the outside and centre bore are what really does the dust ingress resistance.
EDIT: See post 218 on my main thread: https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/from-smoker-to-sssssmokin’.23533/page-11
It went from what you are experiencing to a very acceptable, within FSM spec. I went from 3.3Kg at the wheel bolts before rotating to between 400g - 600g. I didn't quite believe it could be just the dust cover at first, but it's amazing how it can interfere if not absolutely all the way in.
Try re-installing without the dust cover and test to see if you get the same level of friction / sticktion. As a very final resort, you could always very carefully, trim the edges of the dust cover by say 1mm (facing the wheel side) with a scalpel - it shouldn't affect it's operation as it's only pushing against the outer race of the bearings and the outside and centre bore are what really does the dust ingress resistance.
EDIT: See post 218 on my main thread: https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/from-smoker-to-sssssmokin’.23533/page-11
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240L31
Club Member
I feel a bit stupid now. Instead of debating I should have tried what the FSM recommends: adjust the axle nut torque 
I backed off the nut by maybe 10 degree. Results in 800g preload, so right on point. I still don't understand why the axle torque has any effect, though.
I backed off the nut by maybe 10 degree. Results in 800g preload, so right on point. I still don't understand why the axle torque has any effect, though.
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