Modern S30 project! 1st Stage LS1 V8 Engine Swap

[zeeman1972]

btw, What's that gadget on that crane that's holding the engine?

I heard them called a lot of things 'load leveller', 'tilter'; basically it allows you to move the centre of balance of the load, thereby tilting the engine/gearbox to pretty much any angle. Makes taking the engine and gearbox out in one piece a breeze.



£30 from Machine Mart, well worth the money in my opinion, course if I was handier with the welder I could have probably knocked one up for a fiver

 

[Wyn]

That's a good idea/bit of kit that.

One of those things you need once a yr but without it its a right pain.

 

[zeeman1972]

Its In!!!!

On its way

All slotted in

Gear lever perfectly aligned

Heavy V8's???? I say it sat lower with the L28

 

[Wyn]

Cool, Its in !

That’s what we need, some high quality pics


I see that sump looks like its made for the job aswell, is that the filter right at the back out of the way ? (Unlike my annoying rover V8 setup ) I take it those are the new mounts on the block I see. Engine certainly looks like it sits back well at that

Are you going to use an all alloy rad now? Std outlets look right aswell

 

[Russ]

Wahey

Looks like an easier swap than the Wyn and his TVR lump, keep going!

 

[Phantom]

Zeeman1972 -
Steve,
I's like to introduce myself. My name is Bill Davis. My car originally was a 1977 280Z California model. It was the prototype car for the John's Cars LS1 conversion components. It started life white with a brown interior. It is now red with a white racing stripe with a black & red interior. You can see it in my album on www.hybridz.org. I was a bit surprised when I saw the conversion you are doing and thought you'd appreciate the similarities.
By the way - it only takes a very small hammer to make extra room for the reverse lock-out switch. I also see you have the F-body fuel tank. I stuck with the original tank and just added the larger fuel pump in place of the stock one. Many things we could discuss and, if you wish, pictures of specific features of the installation that may assist you in yours.

 

[Wyn]

looky here.

http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=8281

btw, good idea that donation link

 

[zeeman1972]

I see that sump looks like its made for the job aswell, is that the filter right at the back out of the way ? (Unlike my annoying rover V8 setup ) I take it those are the new mounts on the block I see. Engine certainly looks like it sits back well at that

Yes the original F Body sump is really well designed, the oil filter location is one of the best I have seen. That said apparently the sump on these LS1 cars has limitations with regard to sustained cornering and oiling issues. The corvette LS1 engine was fitted with a very fancy winged affair. However I have managed to find a brand new LS2 (new 05 corvette engine) sump that apparently fixes these early problems. I didn't put it on for this initial fit because i wasn't sure it would clear, but I now know it will

The engine mount in the photo is actually the original F body engine mount used in the stock location on the block, the other side is a new mount which has been moved forward to line up with original engine mount location, they put the engine almost totally behind the front axle line, I'm almost mid engined

Are you going to use an all alloy rad now? Std outlets look right aswell

I have a choice of two rads at the moment the original recore'd or the one in my gallery, an 86 Camaro V8 radiator which is an Ali core plastic tank affair which fits exactly between the frame rails. Not sure which one to use yet as the rad mounts for the Camaro rad (in the photo) aren't exactly 'stock' looking .

The outlets are perfect, if you wish, JCI even provide the rad hoses which enable you to conect up the stock rad with no buggering about Oh and even the heater hoses are on the right side too

The kit from JCI was worth every penny and more! I'm even thinking (dreaming) about getting another kit and LS1/2 and doing a RHD version when I have completed this one!

 

[zeeman1972]

Zeeman1972 -
Steve,
I's like to introduce myself. My name is Bill Davis. My car originally was a 1977 280Z California model. It was the prototype car for the John's Cars LS1 conversion components. It started life white with a brown interior. It is now red with a white racing stripe with a black & red interior. You can see it in my album on www.hybridz.org. I was a bit surprised when I saw the conversion you are doing and thought you'd appreciate the similarities.
By the way - it only takes a very small hammer to make extra room for the reverse lock-out switch. I also see you have the F-body fuel tank. I stuck with the original tank and just added the larger fuel pump in place of the stock one. Many things we could discuss and, if you wish, pictures of specific features of the installation that may assist you in yours.

Hi Bill,

It's a pleasure to have you on this forum!

To myself and a few other HybridZ frequenters on this forum, I think you or your car need little introduction!

I must admit the pictures of your car on John's site was the catalyst for my project, even though at the time I was looking to install a V8 into a RHD 260Z. The change from that car to my current 1977 280Z was by the pure chance of another member of this forum having just imported 'a So Cal 280Z' which became available for the same price as my 260Z could sell for. An option I obviously jumped at!

Thanks very much for the offer of advice and photos, something, now that the easy bit is done (getting the engine/gearbox in) I will definitely need when trying to figure out some of the other little details, throttle cable hook up, all the options on clutch connection, A/C stuff etc. I have seen plenty of different ways of doing a bunch of these things but sometimes it would be good to chew them over with someone who has got direct experience!

The tunnel 'adjustment' was nowhere as bad as it sounded in real life, I wrote the comment above about the 'big' hammer almost paraphrasing John's manual 'Use big hammer to dent it in......' before I had actually done the job.

I bought the F body tank as part of a job lot of parts, fans, prop, pedals, etc with the engine and gearbox from the dismantlers. Still in two minds whether to install it or go the larger pump route as you have. In fact I have just contacted John about purchasing the fuel pump, prop and A/C pump/mounts with a view to getting this car on the street quicker. I may still install the tank at a later date if I have a problem with fuelling on the track, I know the 280Z tank is baffled but the baffled area doesn't seem that big??

Anyway enough yapping from me.

Its great to have you about.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Phantom]

Steve,

Yes, I was certainly surprised when Erol linked me over to this site and I saw the conversion you have going on. I've played kind of an 'ombudsman' role with John in the past when folks were struggling to get parts out of him. He and I have a very good relationship born from the 14 month project together.
Let me know if you ever need any asistance there.
I have a little track experience to throw your way. I ran a "Drivers Education" event at Texas Motor Speedway Outside Fort Worth, TX about a year ago. The track was comprised of the the inside SCCA track and the big oval. It was 2.5 miles & 17 turns. My stock oil pan did ok as I never saw any oiling issues. The fuel tank did Ok until I got below about 3/8 on the indicator. That would have had me at 6-7 gallons remaining. At that point I started suffering fuel starvation at full throttle when leaving the infield for the oval via a tight 180 degree left-hand turn. That was in the 4th 30 minute session of the day. The LS1 gets about 10 MPG when in "racing mode". I'd had an opportunity to refuel and foolishly passed thinking I'd be OK.
On another note - what are you thinking in the way of gauges? I went the all stock route. I had JCI modify my tach for the V8 input and put a CableX converter in that takes the electronic output from the T56 and then drives my mechanical speedo. It's mounted where the stock Datsun ECU was down by the drivers left foot. The gas gauge was a no-brainer since I kept the stock tank and then we just added ports in the LS1 for the Oil pressure & water temperature gauges. There are a few "cautions" when using the CableX so if you decide to go that way give me a shout before you hook it up.

 

[zeeman1972]

Bill,

Just been speaking with John tonight funnily enough. I must admit I have found him one of the most helpful guy's I have had to deal with about this project. I could see how some overly sensitive people may be upset by his direct nature, but I personally have no problem at all with it!



Thanks for the info on the fuel issues on the track, more food for thought! I had been contemplating this a lot today and in an effort to move this project forward faster I have just purchased the uprated fuel pump, from John, so I’ll go that route initially although it sort of buggers my plan for complete dual exhausts though. Hmmm!



Yes, I'm wanting to keep the look of the car interior as stock as possible so I’m looking to stick with the standard gauges at the moment. The Tach I know how to recalibrate (the cost of freight to John and back was a little too steep to be practical) and I do have the CableX box so any guidance would be appreciated on that! I was hoping not to have install anything in the footwell where the old ECU was to allow me to crank the pedals over a little to the left, I find their current positions a little too close together for my size 11's, the brake and throttle got hit a number of times when I drove the car in L28 trim. Of course, if it can't go anywhere else then....



Talking of boxes, I am hoping to install my PCM in the same location as yours, do you have any clear pictures/tips to how you fixed it in position, it’s such a strange shape to hold still! Also do you have any tips for the cable entry for the LS1 loom, would slightly under the battery tray be the best place to clear all the other gubins in that area, its hard to guess at without all of the other pipes in place most of which I don't have as yet?



Any help gladly received!

 

[Phantom]

Steve,

That's why John and I get on so well. It does tend to put off some of the more sensitive types, though.
I routed true 2 1/2" duals though an 'X' pipe to just aft of the axles and then crossed them over to the stock exit position and into a single Magnaflow muffler with dual 2 1/2" inlets and a single outlet. Kind of a 'stealthy' arrangement.

On the CableX - two things:
1) Ensure all your electrical connections are soldered. No twisted connections -soldered only.
2) Route the speedometer drive cable as 'gently' as possible. If it starts to bind even a lttle the speedometer will start jumping and bouncing all over -not cool at all.
My size 12's do OK down there - just need to practice a wee bit.

My LS1 wire loom goes though an already existing hole low on the firewall below and a bit inboard of the battery box. I can get a photo or two if it will help. You'll also want to build a heat shield for your wiring on that side too.
Were the two photos of my PCM location in my photo album sufficient or would you like some more?

 

[zeeman1972]

Hi Bill,

Cheers for the ideas with the exhaust, just downloaded you entire gallery over at HybridZ, a very stealthy arrangement! Hmmm



Regarding the PCM, your pictures are great thanks, but I couldn't make out what stops it moving forward and aft if you know what I mean? I have a feeling it may all come clear when I put it in there though! With respect to the loom entry, yes that confirms it then, I was originally thinking of putting the loom though the hole that would have been the steering shaft exit on a RHD car, which is one and the same! Thanks



Thanks for the info on the CableX, just got the drive cable in front of me now, I see what you mean, the friction increases significantly when the cable is bent even a small amount. I wonder if there is another cable available that is more tolerant to bends and perhaps longer, another for my ‘to look into’ list



Thanks your advice is much appreciated!



Steve

 

[zeeman1972]

More bits!

Not much occurring this weekend but have picked up a few more bits from JCI to move the project along faster!

A premade prop which at about half the price of anything I could have made here was a no brainer, an A/C compressor and its mounts which I'll spray an aluminium colour to match in with the engine and a small inline fuel pump that is half out of shot to the right!

I have just heard that my brakes and suspension are now on route so things are starting to look good for a 2010 finish to this project

 

[ZHead]

things are starting to look good for a 2010 finish to this project

Yep.....sounds about right, I'm on cue for 2012

 

[SeanDezart]

Do I have to wait that long to beat you guys ?

 

[zeeman1972]

Beat me? I didn't know we where racing?

 

[grolls]

Do I have to wait that long to beat you guys ?

i thought your target date sean was 2020 ......wont your driving licence expire before then? ...woof woof

 

[SeanDezart]

Maybe the race is to be first to have ones' car on the road.......

Grolls, I have two licences (UK and French) and the UK one expires in 2034 - you're not far out

 

[Phantom]

Hey,

Come to the US national ZCCA Convention the end of May, 1st of June 2006 and you can run my LS1 for practice!! There are three of us now in the Dallas-Ft. Worth area - one is also supercharged!

Steve - Have you thought of having the AC compressor mount parts chromed? Now would be the time and they would really dress things up. By the way - that's a great little compressor. It uses about 25% less energy than the stock Z or bowtie unit.