Modern S30 project! 1st Stage LS1 V8 Engine Swap

Phantom

Active Forum User
Steve - figured I'd better get out of Jim's thread.:) I should have known you were getting the JTR headers by the photo above. The JCI headers look significantly different. Does the JTR header design use the JCI motor mount engine location? I didn't remember if it did or not. If so then they are the superior header - not only can you get them jet-coated but I think they have 1 3/4" primaries where the JCI header has 1 1/2" primaries. I'm not sure how the larger primaries affect accessability to the spark plugs, though. I've read at least one comment that may indicate at least one of them is hard to access. I'm sure you'll let us all know as you install them.
I also like your clutch master cylinder better too. The one I have has no reservoir to speak of and is probably twice as long. It totally occupies the space where the windshield washer bottle used to sit which resulted in the relocation to in front of the radiator in my case.
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
Bill, yes the JTR headers do fit with the JCI mounts, but I beleive that you do have to cut another of the aluminium nodules off the block to get clearance on one side.

The master cylinder was a cheap find, only about $35, fits pretty much right up to the old mounts with very little fettling.

I have also picked up the adapter for the strange GM roll pin clutch connection converting it to a standard -3 conection. Thanks again to the Hybridz/LS1tech guys for that find!

Getting there slowly!
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
Ok after some time my headers have arrived with all my air ducting for the MAFF and TB :D :D :D :D

At some point I may actually get time to put these on the car!!!!!

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Although fairly perfect on the outside the headers do have some 'snots' on the inside (pictured below) and given that these are ceramic coated do I need/should I/can I grind these smooth?

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Steve
 

Russ

Club Member
Ahh just spotted this again, headers look nice.

I imagine the ceramic coating is very light relatively, so you could grind just the inside away a little to round and smooth it. It's not like it'll rust there.
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
Cheers Russ, I think you are right on the rusting;) Appreciated!

Hi Bill!

Yes there has finally been some progress! New clutch master has now been fitted, engine is back out and JTR headers are now clearanced and trial fitted, Transmission tunnel has been 'adjusted 'to allow the reverse light switch to protrude from the gearbox, brake lines are now being rerouted completely away from the engine bay as is the wiring loom which will be totally replaced in the front of the car, replacing the fusible links and adding a new relay and engine bay fuse box. I'm hoping to get the engine loom sorted today so I can order up the GM connectors to make the rest of the loom.

In the background I'm looking for a guy to Tig my AZR suspension sleeves on to the datsun hubs and then I will change over to the new setups front and back. I have finnally got hold of some 300ZXT shafts so will be ordering the MM adapters for fitting with the AZR stuff when I do the rear set up, which just leaves the diff to be fitted with the quaife, the fuel supply, tank and exhaust to be sorted!!! So not much to do then;) :D

Daft question, having looked through your posts on HybridZ I am still at a loss to how you connected the vacuum feed for the A/C to the engine or perhaps not as the case maybe? Any assistance would be appreciated?

Some piccies

Before removal of brake lines and wiring plus other clips, bell cranks, tags, etc
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and during, fuel and some other bits to be removed

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New clutch 3/4 MC, a straight swap with no bodywork required just needed to change over the push rod from old MC to new taking 30 seconds.
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For those of a nervous disposition please look away now!

What do you do if you need to clearance your new engine block to fit your headers?

Sabre saw anyone?

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:devil: :devil: :devil: :devil: :devil: :devil:

Cheers

Steve
 

Phantom

Active Forum User
Steve,
Sorry about the tardy reply. Eviently I missed the notificatioin of your post. I'll take a look at the vacuum lead to the AC system. I do know that the accumulator bottle was done away with - the LS1 never seems to be at a loss for vacuum no matter what kind of load it has!:)
In my album onHybridz a photo labeled "Heater Hose Connections" on page three shows the vacuum hose coming through the firewall and turning toward amidships. It doesn't show the connection, however. Amidships on the aft of the LS1 intake manifold is a T block vacuum source. On the drivers side about a 10mm hose goes to the brake booster. On the passenger side is a smaller fitting where the 4mm AC system vacuum line and a sensor for the ECM.
Hope that helps.
On another note - you need to start evaluating how you're going to reinforce the body to reduce cowl twist. I thought my 4-pt roll bar and front and rear strut tower braces would suffice but evidently they are insufficient. I am unable to keep my windscreen sealed. I've replaced the seal three times and had it resealed four with all the flexible pooky crap (technical engineering term) known to man and I still keep getting a leak on the right side. That's not too bad in Texas where it only rains maybe 25-30 days a year but could present a problem in the 'misty isles".
Bill
 
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zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
Bill,

Thanks, I now know exactly where and what you mean. Do you have any one way valves in line (item A in the picture, it originally went to the A.I.R black box on top of the engine) or is it ok to connect straight up with the vac lead labelled B in the photo.

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Thanks for the warning about the windscreen sealing and cowl twisting! I best look to up the quantity of chassis reinforcement when the car is stripped for paint and strengthening, I was hoping to keep the reinforcement as low key as I could make it to keep as much of a stock feel as possible, however, I can't risk leaks occuring constantly as the car flexes under load. Cheers:)

Another question for you most kind sir. O2 sensors? after having spent 5 hours looking over LS1Tech, LSx Performance, HybridZ, LS1 Camaro and other sites, I seem to be guided that although I can delete the rears (I have LS1 Edit) I need to keep the fronts!? So the million dollar question is where is a good place to put the pesky little sods? Having pawed over a number of LS1 Z galleries I have yet to find one with a clear shot. Do you have pictures or guidance of where yours are (given that you are running them??) I just need to allow the connectors to sit in the right place as I'm rejigging the EFI loom at the moment.
Also being that the engine I imported only had the one O2 sensor on the alternator side, I will be ordering a pair of new ones with bungs to put somewhere in the exhast. It seem that corvette rears seems to be the most commonly used???

Oh well back the spaghetti!

Cheers
 

Phantom

Active Forum User
Steve,
I remember having a problem because my check-valve went bad for some reason. Don't remember what it was but everything worked much better once I got another one in. I'd just hook it up with the valve in line. It might keep things from drifting out of position when you're in a "heavy load" :) condition.
If I remember right I'm only running one O2 sensor and it is on the passenger side near the ECM. I haven't messed with the drivers side exhaust so I don't remember if there's one over there or not. YOu would think that it would be a good idea but maybe it was circumvented when the ECM was reflashed and the "after catalytic converter" sensors were eliminated.
I know there are a couple shots of my exhaust in my album but I don't think there are any clear shots of the area where the O2 sensor(s) is/are.
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
Cheers Bill! Think I'm there with the O2 sensor problems now. I have just ordered up two new vette rear sensors which apparently come with good long leads so I should be able to get my wiring pretty much sorted!
Yes I have had a careful look through yours, Dale MX, Qwik240Z and 1TuffZ's pictures and there is very little to see of them unfortunately.

Will stick the check valve in to be sure then!

Thanks!
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
Why buy a dry state car?????

I have finally gotten round to taking the wings off of the car to make the new suspension and brake install easier, having unbolted the obviously never removed wing bolts which as usual all come out without 7 soakings of WD40, even the wing based ones, I lift the wing off and find.........

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....well apart from a little crustiness around the inner wing to firewall joint under the battery caused by the obvious 'care' it received in the US:rolleyes: , nothing major at all! It really is amazing working on a 29 year old car that still unbolts and doesn't need structural repair and a Datsun at that!:bow:

Engine bay mounts clearance still ongoing,

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Still more to do!
 

Black Bug

Well-Known Forum User
Nope I'm afraid that's rust down there, looks like you'll just have to scrap the whole shell and start again!!

Grrrrr, you bleedin' lucky git!!!

Cheers,
Rusty, erm I mean Rob!
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
Yes that's the one Sean!:p

You mean this under the OTHER wing that I pulled off this weekend:rolleyes:

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It's not exactly scary is it?

Dry state cars still do come in to contact with the wet stuff and will therefore begin rotting where the water gets trapped. It doesn't change my opinion on the benefits of them. Mine had been used and abused by its owners who I know did not look after it otherwise it may have had some form of suspension damping and working electrics:rolleyes: . It also may have come without 7 tins of Bondo in it, but in the grand scheme of things none of these problems including the hole above, due to a blocked air tube outlet, changes the fact that this is the easiest Z I have ever worked on requiring next to bugger all welding.

If I had wanted to pay a slight bit more for a car to rip the guts out of and pretty much rebuild anyhow, I'm sure £3000-£3500 would have found me a completely rust free example at my front door needing a new interior and maybe a paint job! However being that I paid far less than that, I still get a car with sills like these and an engine bay and floor pan without a single plate (Look away Black Bug it'll only upset you:D )

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However if we are getting really pernickety then it also has these areas of rust too due to a leaky heater matrix. Fortunately the floor pans have remained pretty much untouched as you can see in the pictures and the rails are due to be replaced because I'm going to have chassis connectors welded in but hey!!!:devil:

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;)
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
End of the line...

Well I haven't been on here for some time and done little on the Z since these pictures were taken so have decided that as I just don't seem to have the time to move this on that its time to sell up.

I'm looking to sell the project as a whole, 77 280Z shell, LS1 engine/T56 gbox, JTR custom headers, AZ suspension (coil overs and arms), AZ big brake kits, JCI engine install kit, fuel pumps, ACZ diff mounts, Quaife, heated windscreen, etc,etc,etc. Most of the parts are shown in this and this thread http://zclub.net/forum/hybrid-z-car...stage-brakes-suspension.html?highlight=zeeman

Will place an add in the Classifieds but feel free to PM if you are interested in all of it. I'm not currently interested in selling parts individually at the moment and will not respond to those requests sorry.

Steve
 

Mr.G

Club Member
Steve,

What a shame. That will be an awesome project for someone, pity you don't have the time. But I defiantly know where you're coming from.

Hope it goes to a good home.
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
Thanks MrG and Wynn, same here, it would be great to see it completed or better still developed past where I was going with it.
 
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