Paul Henley
Club Member
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Longest 240z restoration ever?
- Thread starter Paul Henley
- Start date
But it's not original anymore, what was wrong with a rusty original?
If you stick to the original theme it saves a hell of a lot of work.
Great work as I've said before.
Paul Henley
Club Member
Brake/Clutch Pedal Box Overhaul
Hi All
A few before and after pic's of the Brake/Clutch Pedal Box. This was basically just a clean and paint job. There was a little rust pitting, so after stripping it was sent for sand blasting. Then on return it was painted in primer and black. I'd tested the brake pedal switch and that was ok, when I stripped it I measured the distance it was set at, so hopefully it should be somewhere close. - Paul
Hi All
A few before and after pic's of the Brake/Clutch Pedal Box. This was basically just a clean and paint job. There was a little rust pitting, so after stripping it was sent for sand blasting. Then on return it was painted in primer and black. I'd tested the brake pedal switch and that was ok, when I stripped it I measured the distance it was set at, so hopefully it should be somewhere close. - Paul
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Paul Henley
Club Member
Hi All
Thought I'd add an update on the work I'e done on my steering wheel.
The wheel didn't have a lot of wear as the car had done 50+k miles, but it was dull looking with standing unused for so long, and had various chips and scratches to the center spokes, I assume from keys, watch straps etc.
I had no idea how to go about doing this and have never seen or have access to view a "new" steering wheel for reference, so I've basically followed everything I've read from the various Z forums This basically went as follows:-
I removed the wheel from the column and stripped it of all component parts and gave it a good scrub/clean in soapy water to remove the initial dirt/grime. Pic's 1 & 2 show the wheel at this stage.
I then stripped the paint off the center spokes, mainly using a drill/flapper wheel to get the bulk of the original black satin paint off - Pic 3
I then masked up the wheel and applied a few coats of primer to the center spokes.- Pic 4
Next I painted the center spokes with a few fresh coats of satin black - Pic's 5 & 6
After leaving for a few days for the paint to harden, I masked up the freshly painted spokes for protection while I addressed the outer wheel.
I cleaned and smoothed the wheel with various grades of grit paper, from 800 to 2000,, taking care not to sand to hard and remove the original colour.
I then applied coats of clear varnish (I think it was 3) and sanded between coats to maintain the smooth finish - Pic's 7 & 8
I had found that there was some corrosive pitting to the center outer ring that creates the contact for the horn switch. I polished this out as it would certainly have caused contact problems latter on. This ring is shown in Pic 7.
Finally I reassembled and refitted the wheel to the steering column, by this point I had now refitted the column and dash to the car. - Pic 10
It's hard to tell the final finish/colour by digital pic's as they all seem different depending on flash, shadow etc, but I'm quite happy with the end result.
Thought I'd add an update on the work I'e done on my steering wheel.
The wheel didn't have a lot of wear as the car had done 50+k miles, but it was dull looking with standing unused for so long, and had various chips and scratches to the center spokes, I assume from keys, watch straps etc.
I had no idea how to go about doing this and have never seen or have access to view a "new" steering wheel for reference, so I've basically followed everything I've read from the various Z forums This basically went as follows:-
I removed the wheel from the column and stripped it of all component parts and gave it a good scrub/clean in soapy water to remove the initial dirt/grime. Pic's 1 & 2 show the wheel at this stage.
I then stripped the paint off the center spokes, mainly using a drill/flapper wheel to get the bulk of the original black satin paint off - Pic 3
I then masked up the wheel and applied a few coats of primer to the center spokes.- Pic 4
Next I painted the center spokes with a few fresh coats of satin black - Pic's 5 & 6
After leaving for a few days for the paint to harden, I masked up the freshly painted spokes for protection while I addressed the outer wheel.
I cleaned and smoothed the wheel with various grades of grit paper, from 800 to 2000,, taking care not to sand to hard and remove the original colour.
I then applied coats of clear varnish (I think it was 3) and sanded between coats to maintain the smooth finish - Pic's 7 & 8
I had found that there was some corrosive pitting to the center outer ring that creates the contact for the horn switch. I polished this out as it would certainly have caused contact problems latter on. This ring is shown in Pic 7.
Finally I reassembled and refitted the wheel to the steering column, by this point I had now refitted the column and dash to the car. - Pic 10
It's hard to tell the final finish/colour by digital pic's as they all seem different depending on flash, shadow etc, but I'm quite happy with the end result.
Attachments
Paul Henley
Club Member
Grill Overhaul
Hi All
Haven't done an update on my progress for a while so thought I'd crack on. This piece concerns the overhaul of the grill. It had some rust, bends etc, so first job was to strip it apart and give it a good clean. The main mount brackets and attached strips were sent to a sand blasters for stripping and priming (the parts in buff primer). As the remaining strips looked like they might suffer from the harsh effects of the blasting media I stripped them by hand with wire brush, paper and sanding wheels and put them in primer (the grey primer parts) I also replaced the rods and nuts that tie them together. Some of the rods had rusted badly into their nuts. I've obtained the correct grey paint and they'll get a coat before refitting to the car.
Paul
Hi All
Haven't done an update on my progress for a while so thought I'd crack on. This piece concerns the overhaul of the grill. It had some rust, bends etc, so first job was to strip it apart and give it a good clean. The main mount brackets and attached strips were sent to a sand blasters for stripping and priming (the parts in buff primer). As the remaining strips looked like they might suffer from the harsh effects of the blasting media I stripped them by hand with wire brush, paper and sanding wheels and put them in primer (the grey primer parts) I also replaced the rods and nuts that tie them together. Some of the rods had rusted badly into their nuts. I've obtained the correct grey paint and they'll get a coat before refitting to the car.
Paul
Attachments
Paul Henley
Club Member
Gearbox
After cleaning the gearbox externally with wire brush, solvents and polishing wheels I stripped the front oil seal apart. I'm fairly confident the gearbox operation is fine as it was when stripped and was relatively low mileage. However for the sake of a few quid it wasn't worth putting the gearbox back in without replacing the oil seals. I checked the bearings while I had access and as expected these seem fine (time will tell). I also repaced the rear oil seal that sits on the propshaft. I had the gearbox mount bracket blasted and repainted black and replaced the associated nuts bolts and rubbers. A new clutch, thrust bearing, clutch slave cylinder, rubber and rev counter cable completed the work.
After cleaning the gearbox externally with wire brush, solvents and polishing wheels I stripped the front oil seal apart. I'm fairly confident the gearbox operation is fine as it was when stripped and was relatively low mileage. However for the sake of a few quid it wasn't worth putting the gearbox back in without replacing the oil seals. I checked the bearings while I had access and as expected these seem fine (time will tell). I also repaced the rear oil seal that sits on the propshaft. I had the gearbox mount bracket blasted and repainted black and replaced the associated nuts bolts and rubbers. A new clutch, thrust bearing, clutch slave cylinder, rubber and rev counter cable completed the work.
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Paul Henley
Club Member
Diff
The diff appears to be working fine but required stripping, cleaning and repainting. I also replaced the nuts/washers vent etc for aesthetic reasons. It came up nice I thought. I also stripped and painted the diff mounts, the support strap was in good condition.
The diff appears to be working fine but required stripping, cleaning and repainting. I also replaced the nuts/washers vent etc for aesthetic reasons. It came up nice I thought. I also stripped and painted the diff mounts, the support strap was in good condition.
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Paul Henley
Club Member
Wow, that's a lovely car! Too clean to drive really tbh.
Paul Henley
Club Member
Thanks Rob, I'm not expecting to be putting a lot of miles on it
Paul Henley
Club Member
Engine Pic's
The engine was stripped and checked and new parts fitted and overhauled as required. It's a totally standard L24. Repainted and new ancillaries fitted. For some unknown reason some of the pics seem to be uploading upside down.....
The engine was stripped and checked and new parts fitted and overhauled as required. It's a totally standard L24. Repainted and new ancillaries fitted. For some unknown reason some of the pics seem to be uploading upside down.....
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Paul Henley
Club Member
Carbs
Hi All
Few more pics uploaded, these are the before and after pics of the original carbs. They were in quite a state having sat in dust for 30+ years. Knowing nothing about carbs I decided to send mine across the water to ZTherapy to have them overhauled. Really happy with the result but the proof in the pudding will when I finally fire up the car and set about setting them. They came back with the heatshield in what looked like grey primer so I'ved switched that with one I'd had replated.
Paul
Hi All
Few more pics uploaded, these are the before and after pics of the original carbs. They were in quite a state having sat in dust for 30+ years. Knowing nothing about carbs I decided to send mine across the water to ZTherapy to have them overhauled. Really happy with the result but the proof in the pudding will when I finally fire up the car and set about setting them. They came back with the heatshield in what looked like grey primer so I'ved switched that with one I'd had replated.
Paul
Attachments
Paul Henley
Club Member
Brake master cylinder/servo overhaul
Hi all, thought I'd get my finger out and post some more pics n stuff. Thought it might be worth something to someone to share the details on my brake master cylinder/servo overhaul. My car hadn't used its brakes for 30 plus years so I didn't have much faith in it being functional. When I took it apart it was evident it was screaming for a repair kit. What was left of the brake fluid looked like it had kind of crystallized around the piston in the master cylinder. Some of the internal rubber parts had actually turned to a black gunge. So after stripping it down, I cleaned up the piston, springs etc and fitted a Tokico repair kit that I'd acquired at some point replacing the internals. I cleaned up and polished the external body and fitted new reservoirs, at a later time I was able to come by a pair of new Nabco reservoir caps from Moggy240 to complete the master cylinder overhaul. The master servo wasn't really an issue as it's not subject to any corrosive elements other than paint damage and as the car was fairly low mileage I figured the internals wouldn't have worn much (this has since proven to be correct as the system appears to be working fine). So I just stripped and renewed the paint and fitted a new decal. I guess if a master cylinder is used regularly despite is age it won't suffer the damage internally that mine had but if your going to check it over you may as well open it up and check inside.
Hi all, thought I'd get my finger out and post some more pics n stuff. Thought it might be worth something to someone to share the details on my brake master cylinder/servo overhaul. My car hadn't used its brakes for 30 plus years so I didn't have much faith in it being functional. When I took it apart it was evident it was screaming for a repair kit. What was left of the brake fluid looked like it had kind of crystallized around the piston in the master cylinder. Some of the internal rubber parts had actually turned to a black gunge. So after stripping it down, I cleaned up the piston, springs etc and fitted a Tokico repair kit that I'd acquired at some point replacing the internals. I cleaned up and polished the external body and fitted new reservoirs, at a later time I was able to come by a pair of new Nabco reservoir caps from Moggy240 to complete the master cylinder overhaul. The master servo wasn't really an issue as it's not subject to any corrosive elements other than paint damage and as the car was fairly low mileage I figured the internals wouldn't have worn much (this has since proven to be correct as the system appears to be working fine). So I just stripped and renewed the paint and fitted a new decal. I guess if a master cylinder is used regularly despite is age it won't suffer the damage internally that mine had but if your going to check it over you may as well open it up and check inside.
