ignition electrics

S

surreyseagull

Well-Known Forum User
hi all.just dragged the z out of the garage as were trying to get it running.as can be seen im fitting a pertronix ignitor.flame thrower coil combination..we had the car briefly running about a year ago.but for whatever reason it died and we havnt been able to start it again.
it turns over no probs but no spark?.i need someone who has a really good ignition circuit diagram.what colour wires go where? as i may of pulled some off whilst moving it about.
we seem to have life at the coil and ballast resistor.but really need help with what colour wires are going where before try turning it over again.
is it possible its something else?.any help appreciated as im pulling my hair out.cheers
 

Attachments

  • DSC02584.JPG
    DSC02584.JPG
    2.3 MB · Views: 64
  • DSC02583.JPG
    DSC02583.JPG
    2.3 MB · Views: 68
Hi Mate,,I seem to recall that the zenon site has very good schematics etc for all the z's s30 to present I believe,,anyway give em a try ! :driving:
 
electrics :)

pm me your email and i can send you a 72 factory service manual mate,,,it's zipped but large. Hope its of use :driving:
 
Seagul - Please ignore if this is not appropriate but I suggest you don't try to run the car without the cooling system in working order. On the pic you have cut hoses etc.

I ran my car once (few years ago) with the rear wheels off the ground and I ended up overheating the rear of the head and burning No 6 exh valve. Overheating problems will be harder to correct than ignition problems.
 
hiya rob.yes cheers im going to spend this week replacing hoses.a lot of the origanal hoses are crumbling away.as soon as you try pulling them there splitting.
 
Mr seagull, the current to your ignition runs via the tach, so if your tac (rev counter !) is fried, the car will not start, also if you leave the car with the ignition on, you will might fry your Pertronix

Assuming you have a 4 wire tach
 
I have Aldon igniter & flame thrower coil - I believe thats same as Petronix? (not sure who imports who)
I recall its very simple - will take a few photos tomorrow.
Looking at the instructions from Aldon, it is very simple - black wire from igniter goes to -ve on coil, red wire goes to the other end of the ballast resistor (not the end connected to +ve on coil).

Jon
 
Hi, here's some shots of the coil & wiring to the Igniter.
first picture - you can see the connections to the coil. Top wire is +ve connected to black/yellow (I think...) from the loom.
bottom wire is the 'black' wire from the Igniter. Its actually grey, because the black wire was too short and I had to extend it.
05012011021.jpg

2nd picture. you can see the connections to the ballast resistor. The ballast resistor is not in the circuit as you can see - just using one of its terminals to connect 3 wires.
two of them (green/yellow and black/white) come from the loom. the other one is the red wire from the Igniter.
05012011019.jpg

I don't believe I got any performance improvement from cutting out the ballast resistor - but this is how it ended up.
The only other thing I can remember of note about the installation is that the rotor arm sat too high on top of the igniter in the distributor, and it jammed the carbon brush at up into the cap - so I had to file a mm or two off the bottom of the rotor arm.
 

Attachments

  • 05012011020.jpg
    05012011020.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 23
ok..tried wireing up as jon suggested.yay getting spark to plugs when i rest them against block which i wasnt getting last week...ok next problem..its still not fireing..should fuel system be next to be looked at?..also my ballast resistor has only 2 conections.so i have 2 loose wires floating about..what looks like a blue wire and black and white wire.any ideas?
 
Sounds like progress!
on my car I have 1 loose wire that never was connected - it could well be dark blue. You can see it in the photo tucked in behind the ballast resistor.
you say you have only 2 connections to your ballast resistor - is that 2 after wiring up like mine?

I have the black/white and green/yellow wire and the red wire from the igniter all wired together.
do you have two black/white wires?

anyway - next steps would be to check fuel and timing of spark.
to check fuel, it's probably enough to check if the spark plugs are wet with fuel after cranking it over for say 30 seconds (keep the battery charger handy!)

to check spark timing, I think you'll need a timing strobe - although I guess you could do a static check looking for spark at the spark plug rather than at the points.

also maybe good to check the HT leads are connected in the right order if they've been off since it last ran.

Jon
 
hi all.still needing help.been down to car today and still not fireing.
got pertronix ignition,ignitor coil
got a good spark to every plug and fuel is reaching at least to the fuel filter.plenty of fuel sloshing about in filter.
still not fireing..whats next step???
 
240/260 ignition system faults can be quiet simple if the problem is broken down into managable chunks

A few questions 1st

Are you getting wet plugs ? (if so fuel is getting drawn into the chambers:thumbs:)
Is your mechanical and electrical timing on or there abouts?, if its a mile out then your not going anywhere.
Have you got free movement on the carb pistons, do they "clunk" when released, if they stick then once again your not going anywhere.
Is the choke cable and levers working and in good order, (you'll need a choke in this weather, even in Surrey)
Does the spark at the plug look blue and "cracks" or is it a bit yellow and weak
If your still on a points dizzy replace the condensor

Don't get too hung up with the ballast resistor (but don't forget it either), if your running a performance 12 volt coil and an electronic points system (280 dizzy etc) it should'nt even be in the circuit as modern performance coils are designed to run at a full 12 volts

On a non modified system (original points dizzy and coil) Its normally switched out of the circuit during starting to deliver the full 12 volts to the coil to boost the spark and when the key is released, switched back in to limit current through the coil and points to prolong coil and points life by preventing over heating and burning etc

The reason I asked about the colour of the spark is if its weak during cranking then the ballast might be wired opposite to the above, reducing the voltage to the coil limiting the current draw.

Finally remember Occams Razor which simply put is "the simplest explanation is most likely the correct one".
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi,
Am away this weekend or else I'd pop round. Are you getting fuel to the carbs and are the chokes working (it has been pretty cold lately)?

Did you take the leads of the dizzy to fit the electronic stuff and, if so are they back on in the correct order? Sorry I don't mean to sound patronising, I'm only trying to help.
 
Are you getting wet plugs ? yes plugs got petrol smell as well

Is your mechanical and electrical timing on or there abouts? i think so.ive never changed it,or touched it

Have you got free movement on the carb pistons, do they "clunk" when released...not done that?

Is the choke cable and levers working and in good order....not checked that either?

Did you take the leads of the dizzy to fit the electronic stuff and, if so are they back on in the correct order mate did the electronic stuff.which seems ok
 
Sorry Mr Gull
I was editing my post whilst you were replying, new questions and info added in my original post
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top