Door locking problem

Mick Cliff

Well-Known Forum User
A bit of help please.....
Of the two door locks on my '73 240z one works (after a fashion) and the second nearly works.
On the passenger door (left side) the push/pull lock button on top of the door works fine but the key operated cylinder lock does not work. The lock cylinder turns each way - CW and ACW - but does not operate the linkage on the lock case. Everything appears to be there - rods, levers etc - but the lock cylinder can be turned each way with about 90 degrees of 'slack' (i.e. the cylinder does not rotate the lever that, in turn, pulls or pushes the rod that operates the locking mechanism). As such it does not push/pull the locking mechanism.
I can't see any way of tightening up the cylinder/lever interface to remove this 'slack'. The lever looks to be retained by a circlip so I assume there's a groove in the cylinder extension to seat the circlip.

Any ideas for a cure?

The drivers side (right) JUST works but there does seem to be some 'slack' in there too. I haven't exposed the inner workings of that door,,,, yet!

Oh! Re-fitting the spring clip that retains the window winding handle can be politely defined as 'character building'!
 

johnymd

Club Member
I thought the 240z arm was cranked that all.

I've bought them with the cheap delivery as its got to be worth a punt, as you say. Mine should be here in a week or so. The US imports never have keys that work so I'll probably keep a few sets in stock if I'm happy with them.
 

Mick Cliff

Well-Known Forum User
Thanks guys. All the Ebay referenced locks would appear to emanate from one source in Thailand so I will go the cheapest route - direct from Thailand.

For those that have fitted these locks - did you need to crank the arm? My existing arm does have a slight crank (~1mm)

Will strip out the drivers door today and see if the same problem exists there before ordering up. No rush so will take cheapest delivery (Yorkshireman = tight!)
 

spitdigger

Club Member
Door lock update

As an update, I ordered a set of locks including fuel flap from here

(http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIT-1970-...984742?hash=item3d25f789e6:g:yqEAAOSwCGVX3Tn1)

They arrived in a week with no customs charge :)

It was a punt as they are not listed as 240/260, but look identical as those listed for our cars. The catch bar on the fuel flap lock is different but the new one works well. The door locks needed the bar cranking, this does shortened it slightly, although it was as near as damn it the same as the original in length. However although the lock would unlock it wouldn't quite move the latch enough to lock. The rod between the lock and the mechanism also has a crank, I eased the angles thus increasing the length by a couple of mm and hey presto I have locking doors.

The ignition switch doesn't fit, but it was apunt anyway, although at a glance I think the barrel will transplant into my original.

After this I will probably find where I've put my keys to the originals....
 

johnymd

Club Member
I didn't see the complete set so just bought the pair of door locks. May buy the set now. Why doesn't the ignition part fit? can it be modified to fit?
 

johnymd

Club Member
Are you sure that's the fuel flap and not the tailgate lock? The US cars didn't have a lock on the fuel flap.
 

chrisvega

Well-Known Forum User
Are you sure that's the fuel flap and not the tailgate lock? The US cars didn't have a lock on the fuel flap.

Are you sure ?
Most of mine have had locking fuel flaps.
Think it depends on year built.
Maybe earlier cars did not have them ?
No other way round, later cars didn't have them, just earlier cars - I have one on my car built April 71.
 
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Mick Cliff

Well-Known Forum User
The door locks needed the bar cranking, this does shortened it slightly, although it was as near as damn it the same as the original in length. However although the lock would unlock it wouldn't quite move the latch enough to lock. The rod between the lock and the mechanism also has a crank, I eased the angles thus increasing the length by a couple of mm and hey presto I have locking doors.
My replacement locks arrived last week but I've not had time to fit them yet (a leaking shower tray has taken priority!).
Your description sounds very much like what I'm up against. The bar will need cranking and I suspect that the rod will need to be re-aligned too.
The new locks also exhibit 'slack' just like the originals (the cylinder can turn through about 45+ degrees before the bar moves) so it may turn out to be an alignment problem rather than a lock/cylinder problem. I'll report back once I have found the time to do it.
 

spitdigger

Club Member
I didn't see the complete set so just bought the pair of door locks. May buy the set now. Why doesn't the ignition part fit? can it be modified to fit?

The steering column clamp diameter is smaller than the Z

As for fuel flap my 76 280 doesn't have provision for a lock, but the UK 77 2+2 has.

Anyone have a source for replacement tailgate locks ?
 

johnymd

Club Member
That's odd Chris as all the cars I've got from the US had no lock hole and just the bulge to open them. Most were '73 but a few were '70/'71 cars and I think all had the original flap.
 

chrisvega

Well-Known Forum User
That's odd Chris as all the cars I've got from the US had no lock hole and just the bulge to open them. Most were '73 but a few were '70/'71 cars and I think all had the original flap.

Just checked back on pics of all cars we have had through and all 70/71 cars have the key lock flap plus April 71 and Feb 71 build cars here outside both have same.

I think it may have been changed to the non-locking finger hole type flap at the same time they changed the rear window de-mister from vertical to horizontal some time around mid 71 ?
 

johnymd

Club Member
The early car (Jan 71) with an original flap had a chrome turn knob so could have been fitted with a lock. All the others were non locking so yes, 71 could be the changeover point.
 
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