Coil Over Plug System

Fastededdie

Fastededdie

Club Member
I think this has been done before but I am looking for some fresh opinions as to getting a decent system and easy to fit! Nothing ever is. The ECU for example what would you recommend ? I see the crank sensor sprocket has to be the best way. Gets rid of loads of crap like the dizzy and coil. How to wire all this up. It has to be done. What order and how do the leads go to the ECU? Basically just need pointing in the right direction.

Thanks


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That’s a massive question, there’s loads of aftermarket ecu’s out there. I’m using Emerald K6. If ur going down the CoP route you’ll also need a cam sensor or retain the Distributor drive so you won’t get rid of all that ‘crap’. Assume ur converting to Fuel injection too?
Have a look here... http://www.emeraldm3d.com/
It covers most aspects including wiring.
 
Turn & Burn said:
That’s a massive question, there’s loads of aftermarket ecu’s out there. I’m using Emerald K6. If ur going down the CoP route you’ll also need a cam sensor or retain the Distributor drive so you won’t get rid of all that ‘crap’. Assume ur converting to Fuel injection too?
Have a look here... http://www.emeraldm3d.com/
It covers most aspects including wiring.
Click to expand...
No, you don't need a cam sensor. A trigger wheel at the crank is enough. Then you can get rid of the distributor and run coil on plugs.

You can't however run a full sequential map with a crank sensor, you have to use a wasted spark setup. There isn't any practical drawback to that really, just a few percent worse fuel economy. Still going to be better than your current setup.

So to convert and run coil on plugs and a modern ECU you need the following:
ECU (I run a ECUmaster classic, can highäy recommend)
ECU harness
A fuse/relay borad to power the new things
MAP sensor
Throttle position sensor
Lambda sensor
Water temp sensor (you already have one if you have a 280z.)

That's it. Tje easiest way is to rip out the old ECU harness and wire a new one in. Most ECU makers sell a DIY harness which makes things easier
 
That ECUmaster Classic looks like a really good bit of kit!

The specs say it'll support the Nissan 360 degree trigger pattern.......so.......if you have a 280ZXT distributor or a modified to fit RB series CAS you could run full sequential ignition and injection
 
zbloke said:
That ECUmaster Classic looks like a really good bit of kit!

The specs say it'll support the Nissan 360 degree trigger pattern.......so.......if you have a 280ZXT distributor or a modified to fit RB series CAS you could run full sequential ignition and injection
Click to expand...

The Ecu master is fantastic. There are lots of great ECUs out there, but I choose the ECU master for the following reasons:
- Local knowledge (my tuner likes them a lot)
- Great references on performance and software. I have several friends who runs this ECU.
- Price is not bad either, especially when you think of what you get. I paid less than 800GBP for mine. However, if you are running a turbo then you might need to get the EMU Black instead of the Classic.

Then there are some cool features: The ECU master has a built in MAP sensor. Just route the vacuum to the ECU, which has a vacuum port. It has a built in wide band oxygen sensor, it connects directly to a Bosch lambda bungle, no need for a separate WBO unit.



2ndly, are you sure about not running wasted spark. Any crank sensor is 360deg and the four stroke cycle is 720 (which a cam sensor is basically). So while the EMU connects straight to the mentioned systems, you would still need to run wasted spark. Or am I missing something regarding the Nissan 360?
 
the distributor runs at cam speed, so you can get cam signal from it.
downside is that its an old distributor. they have small wheels and a fair amount of play so precision and accuracy isn't what it would be with a crank trigger wheel.
 
jonbills said:
the distributor runs at cam speed, so you can get cam signal from it.
downside is that its an old distributor. they have small wheels and a fair amount of play so precision and accuracy isn't what it would be with a crank trigger wheel.
Click to expand...
Ahh! I see.

I have another note regarding that, because there are triggers you can connect via the distributor gears. They are not recommended above 7000 rpm, so if you are building a high revving engine a crank trigger wheel or cam sensor is highly recommended. That includes getting rid of the distributor.

Just a quick question regarding the distributor. How do you align it due to their being two TDC in one cycle?
 
the drive spindle has to be inserted in the right position when the engine is at TDC on compression stroke.
as you can see here, the drive tang isn't symetrical, so the distributor only fits in one position.
DSC_0288.JPG
 
The Nissan 360 degree trigger uses a thin disc, passing through an optical sensor, with 360 outer slots and 6 inner slots or windows, outer slots for engine speed and inner slots/windows for triggering ignition/fuel

The RB series CAS disc has a few different styles of inner slot/window - 5 the same and one bigger - all different size - and will use the appropriate slot/window when lined up with the optical sensor to reference No.1 cylinder at TDC

The 280ZXT distributor has 6 inner slots/windows all the same size but its easy enough to make one larger or swap in a disc from a VG30, which is 5 the same size and one larger, to give you a No.1 TDC reference

The 280ZXT distributor is old, but there is very little to wear in them, you have a shaft that spins, supported by a bush at the bottom and a ball bearing at the top, if bush or bearing are worn they can be replaced and if the shaft is worn any competent machinist should be able to turn you up a new one to whatever tolerances your happy running, as for optical sensors, they have been used to very good effect on L6 engines all the way to 8500rpm - search Hybridz and you'll find examples

And a final nod toward the old 280ZXT distributor, it would appear that KAMEARI have used the basic design of it for their hi performance L series distributors, but with a ball bearing top and bottom of the shaft to enable it to handle 24000rpm
 
Thank you for that informative post!


And to not derail the thread too much: Fastededdie, are you running carbs or fuel injection today? What car is it?
 
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