Wicked, can you send me a link of where you got it from please?
Thanks.
.
Will try and find out from the guy who supplied and fitted it and let you know. Rob
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a 'Nut and Bolt' restoration. A how to guide.
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Will try and find out from the guy who supplied and fitted it and let you know. Rob
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
Thankyou very much.
toopy
Club Member
The indicator's and hazard's are seperate relays, both are in the drivers footwell, on the right, tucked up some where above the fuse box.
A pain to get too! or atleast they are on mine.
Also check the wiring at the stalk, they are renound for being on the fragile side, especially now they are so old!
A pain to get too! or atleast they are on mine.
Also check the wiring at the stalk, they are renound for being on the fragile side, especially now they are so old!
The hazard circuit is the master and switches in or out the indicator circuit, indicator circuit has a seperate can to the hazard circuit.
On a lot of old or 2 pronged indicator cans, theres not even a capacitive function...... its just a bi metalic strip, the resistance of the bulb causes current draw, the current heats up the strip, the strip bends, it breaks the circuit and the cycle continues, the advantage is that because the strip and the coil are precicely engineered any change in resistance (ie a blown bulb) and the rate changes, plus the on off of the bimetallic produces its own audiable "tink tink" sound
Modern cans have an solid state timer IC and driver stage, where you could add a trim pot to tweak the timing.
On a lot of old or 2 pronged indicator cans, theres not even a capacitive function...... its just a bi metalic strip, the resistance of the bulb causes current draw, the current heats up the strip, the strip bends, it breaks the circuit and the cycle continues, the advantage is that because the strip and the coil are precicely engineered any change in resistance (ie a blown bulb) and the rate changes, plus the on off of the bimetallic produces its own audiable "tink tink" sound
Modern cans have an solid state timer IC and driver stage, where you could add a trim pot to tweak the timing.
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The reason it will not fit is its for a 280ZX and the 280ZX and 260Z cylinders are NOT interchangable as they are two entirely different cars
At the risk of repeating myself.........................
You originally asked...."Can anyone confirm that they are interchangeable for me please?"
And I replied.
slave.. yes.
Master.. no.
What part of my answer didnt you understand????
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
Thankyou guys.
Will be going back out in a bit and will post the results a bit later.
Also Relating to the master cylinder, Ibwas wondering whether you had actually tried to fit one yourself??
Will be going back out in a bit and will post the results a bit later.
Also Relating to the master cylinder, Ibwas wondering whether you had actually tried to fit one yourself??
datsfun
Club Member
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
Okay, so after tracing the green and white wires, they come to the same place as the hazard relay on a hidden removable metal panel behind the hazard relay!!!
PITA TO GET OFF!!!
Had to bend a screwdriver to a curve to access the screw then go back and forth a quarter turn at a time to remove it!
Anyway, got the relay off, and opened it up and the contacts were stuck closed with lots off **** (tried to picture it...). Had to get a mini screwdriver to break the **** and prise them open.
Cleaned the conatcts nice and shiny and tested it in the car. Still does not work, but when touching the contact and giving minimal force with my fingernail (absolutely minimal), it clicks open and makes the sound that it should.
Please see the pictures of the relay...
Any ideas on this one?
I have looked for the relay online and found nothing for it.
Thanks.
PITA TO GET OFF!!!
Had to bend a screwdriver to a curve to access the screw then go back and forth a quarter turn at a time to remove it!
Anyway, got the relay off, and opened it up and the contacts were stuck closed with lots off **** (tried to picture it...). Had to get a mini screwdriver to break the **** and prise them open.
Cleaned the conatcts nice and shiny and tested it in the car. Still does not work, but when touching the contact and giving minimal force with my fingernail (absolutely minimal), it clicks open and makes the sound that it should.
Please see the pictures of the relay...
Any ideas on this one?
I have looked for the relay online and found nothing for it.
Thanks.
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
Someone say well done Gangsta!!
Cleaned it up and adjusted the contact very very slightly!
Oooohhhhhhh babyyyyy!!!
Watch the video!!
Made my day after I ripped my favourite batman socks this morning! Looooool!
https://vimeo.com/135867966
Cleaned it up and adjusted the contact very very slightly!
Oooohhhhhhh babyyyyy!!!
Watch the video!!
Made my day after I ripped my favourite batman socks this morning! Looooool!
https://vimeo.com/135867966
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
Car idling nicely.
https://vimeo.com/135869877
Yes I need to get a new temp sensor/sender.
Just incase you want to point it out...
.
https://vimeo.com/135869877
Yes I need to get a new temp sensor/sender.
Just incase you want to point it out...
.Found that digital flasher unit now. Here is a link to the supplier:Wicked, can you send me a link of where you got it from please?
Thanks.
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1061
My auto electrician advises you need to add an earth when you fit it.
Hope that helps.
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
Thankyou very much for that.
If mine stops working, I will be right on it!
Thanks.
If mine stops working, I will be right on it!
Thanks.
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
Scraped a bit of paint off to reveal panels underneath... Not too bad!
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
More goodies just arrived!!
.
.
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
Might also treat the car to some new shocks and springs.
Thinking lowered, want to wait get arches on to see how much I want the drop to be, anyone hot any suggestions though?
I was thinking 35/40mm still want it to look oem ride height.
Thinking lowered, want to wait get arches on to see how much I want the drop to be, anyone hot any suggestions though?
I was thinking 35/40mm still want it to look oem ride height.
toopy
Club Member
They do ride a bit high on standard suspension, especially at the back
I lowered mine by approx 1 1/2 inches which works a treat
Lowered and slightly uprated springs with Tockico HP shocks, all from Mike @ MJP
morbias
Well-Known Forum User
It might be an idea to hold off buying stuff until you're further into it, I would budget for the welding repairs first. Once you've removed all the filler and paint you'll really be able to see how much welding is going to be required, it's looking pretty scary already to be quite honest!
Rust repairs ain't cheap, especially for a 2+2 where some of the panels are going to have to be custom made. I do admire your bravery though
Rust repairs ain't cheap, especially for a 2+2 where some of the panels are going to have to be custom made. I do admire your bravery though
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
All ofall of my panels are going to be repaired and hand beater to shape by a classic car expert..
No bodge jobs here mate!!
It will be the best 260 in the uk once done!!
Trust me on that!!!
Proper jobbb!!
Going to make sure everything os 100%!!
No bodge jobs here mate!!
It will be the best 260 in the uk once done!!
Trust me on that!!!
Proper jobbb!!
Going to make sure everything os 100%!!
DonMuscles
Well-Known Forum User
The car is actually pretty solid, it actually looks worse than it is.
Mostly because when it was rusty 10 years ago some bunch on ***** just fillered over all the rust instead of cutting it out and doing it properly!!!
I thought the back bumper was good until I chipped the edge off yesterday to realise they done a very nice job of filler on that too.
Still not too bad though.
Just lots of extra work.
Front wings need most attention. Then just either end of the sills, the centre sections are actually relatively rust free, probably due to the excessive side skirts it had on. Rear bumper side bottoms also another bad area for attention as it had just been fillered over before and packed with cardboard where it gathered water.
Mostly because when it was rusty 10 years ago some bunch on ***** just fillered over all the rust instead of cutting it out and doing it properly!!!
I thought the back bumper was good until I chipped the edge off yesterday to realise they done a very nice job of filler on that too.
Still not too bad though.
Just lots of extra work.
Front wings need most attention. Then just either end of the sills, the centre sections are actually relatively rust free, probably due to the excessive side skirts it had on. Rear bumper side bottoms also another bad area for attention as it had just been fillered over before and packed with cardboard where it gathered water.
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