Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
I totally get that. I'd always advise doing proper checks from these sellers.
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10k auto 280z on ebay
- Thread starter Robotsan
- Start date
I totally get that. I'd always advise doing proper checks from these sellers.
Robotsan
Club Member
On that note, while I've been devouring information on Z's for year now, I would still feel nervous relying on myself to make a decision on one, so I got a quote from a classic car inspection company a while back - £750 for a very thorough going over! So I was wondering if anyone on the forum offers their own similar service? Or even if someone could be persuaded to come and inspect it with me for a more modest fee?
Robotsan
Club Member
I can see what you mean now.. the rubber(/vinyl?) seals or trim look to kind of disintegrate into mush! I'm guessing the car would likely need all such rubber and carpets completing replacing from the looks of things.
Do those aluminium looking sill plates usually hide any rot? How are they attached?
Also shouldn't there be a hole here where the old rear bumper attached? There looks to be a mark of some sort, but it looks like it may have been filled badly? Would it still be possible to attach a repro 240z bumper to this, or would it need those original holes?
Can't see anything on the other side:
Also, I was wondering what this part is? I've never seen a Z with that - surely there should be nothing here once the 5mph bench bumpers are removed?
Also, are these weird lip things on the 280z's bonded on? Do they leave a big old mess when removed?
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
I see a car full of filler.
Robotsan
Club Member
It's quite possible isn't it. Is is those rear quarters with no holes that makes you say that, or have you spotted something else? I guess a good going over with a magnet would be the only way to know for sure.
richiep
Club Member
The rear lip thing is just trim associated with the impact bumper. Can just be unbolted.
Weird piece on the front - again, impact bumper associated. Just remove and bin.
280Z rear bumpers don't need holes at the sides due to being mounted on hydraulic rams. Hence the lack of escutcheons/recesses for the bumper sides as per 240Zs, etc. You can buy conversion brackets to mount the 240Z bumpers on the rear valance - you will need to drill holes on the lower rear quarter panels for the mounting brackets on the bumper end sections.
It's a runner, it's registered, it needs improvement on-the-go, including a (maybe partial) paint job at some point. Someone will grab it, probably for a bit less than asking and have a decent, solid mobile project car.
As for the filler comment - your eyes are obviously better than mine! Nothing screams heavy filler, nothing more than you'd use with a basic repaint anyway. Of course, there's likely to be some somewhere, but I don't see a car "full of filler".
If I was in the market (with Dixie dragging on and ongoing Celica upgrades, I'm definitely not!), I'd probably nip over to take a look.
Weird piece on the front - again, impact bumper associated. Just remove and bin.
280Z rear bumpers don't need holes at the sides due to being mounted on hydraulic rams. Hence the lack of escutcheons/recesses for the bumper sides as per 240Zs, etc. You can buy conversion brackets to mount the 240Z bumpers on the rear valance - you will need to drill holes on the lower rear quarter panels for the mounting brackets on the bumper end sections.
It's a runner, it's registered, it needs improvement on-the-go, including a (maybe partial) paint job at some point. Someone will grab it, probably for a bit less than asking and have a decent, solid mobile project car.
As for the filler comment - your eyes are obviously better than mine! Nothing screams heavy filler, nothing more than you'd use with a basic repaint anyway. Of course, there's likely to be some somewhere, but I don't see a car "full of filler".
If I was in the market (with Dixie dragging on and ongoing Celica upgrades, I'm definitely not!), I'd probably nip over to take a look.
richiep
Club Member
Aluminium sill plates question - they are just screwed on. Hiding rot? Not necessarily. Maybe a bit of dirt and maybe surface rust. The rot in the sills almost always comes from lower down, or starts at the back in the doglegs in front of the rear wheel arches.
You get more rust inside with the inner sill plate, but that is because those are steel with a black textured coating on them. The coating lifts and they rust, often creating a scary impression. On the plus side, its the plates that rust first rather than the top of the inner sill!
Stuff you'd want to look at would be floor condition, whether/how badly its been jacked up in the wrong places, bending the underfloor rails (SO common on US imports). Rear hatch slam panel, doglegs, rear arches, straightness of front frame rails, etc.
TBH, everything is fixable with application of time and money. Particularly as panel and parts availability continues to improve.
You get more rust inside with the inner sill plate, but that is because those are steel with a black textured coating on them. The coating lifts and they rust, often creating a scary impression. On the plus side, its the plates that rust first rather than the top of the inner sill!
Stuff you'd want to look at would be floor condition, whether/how badly its been jacked up in the wrong places, bending the underfloor rails (SO common on US imports). Rear hatch slam panel, doglegs, rear arches, straightness of front frame rails, etc.
TBH, everything is fixable with application of time and money. Particularly as panel and parts availability continues to improve.
Robotsan
Club Member
Thanks Rich, really useful and helpful. I'm going to give him a ring today.
Well that's a big seal of approval, if you would have considered looking at it!
At the risk of hijacking my own thread, how is that Celica coming along?
Robotsan
Club Member
Ok great, thanks again for the info.
I had all those rust areas on my list already so that's good, but not necessarily the straightness of the front rails and bends in them.
Would you say all the parts for the manual swap should be available in the UK by the way?
Faster Behr
Club Member
Get and look at it!
If I had the time I’d love to come and have a look with you. Maybe see if you can get a FaceTime call going with someone knowledgeable whilst you’re on site with it (data coverage permitting)? £750 for an inspection is a lot of shekels and overkill for this.
Regarding undoing things that are seized - heat, hammers and patience
If I had the time I’d love to come and have a look with you. Maybe see if you can get a FaceTime call going with someone knowledgeable whilst you’re on site with it (data coverage permitting)? £750 for an inspection is a lot of shekels and overkill for this.
Regarding undoing things that are seized - heat, hammers and patience
Robotsan
Club Member
Thanks anyway, that would've been very kind of you. Good idea re: Facetime! I wouldn't dream of spending £750 on an inspection. I spent £150 for a PPI at a reputable BMW indie when I bought my M3, and they missed that the cruise control and parking sensors didn't work! Never again.
I've been trying to call Galliers about the car this afternoon but it's engaged every time. Probably been so inundated with budget Z fans asking about it that he's taken the phone off the hook (not that you can do that anymore!).
uk66fastback
Club Member
Sold pending the deposit? So it’s not sold then by the sound of it? Surely you’d put a deposit on if you were looking to buy it …
Looks to be a decent car for the money, we’ve all seen them up for daft amounts.
Looks to be a decent car for the money, we’ve all seen them up for daft amounts.
Robotsan
Club Member
Yeah I think he's had promises of the deposit but not received yet. Thing is I wouldn't put a deposit down without seeing it, and I can't get down there to see it until Friday at the earliest.
uk66fastback
Club Member
No rush, there’s always another car … but I wish I’d followed that advice 30-35 years ago when I was buying some right heaps without viewing a few (not Zs) …
If someone wanted it that much, the deposit would be down I’m sure.
If someone wanted it that much, the deposit would be down I’m sure.
Faster Behr
Club Member
With an ever dwindling number of cars you really need to be hot out of the blocks to get what you want, or close to it. The decrease in numbers and the increasing appetite are the the principle drivers behind rising prices. If I hadn’t just got another project then I’d have gone to see this one myself. It’s well priced against the 280Z we bought last year, and arguably in better condition in some aspects (interior).
I do hope you find what you want but I do think you need to be prepared to compromise and accept shortcomings - or - just pay top money for something already done.
Faster Behr
Club Member
I believe a deposit is fully refundable these days if bought online/over the phone. If you no-likey when you get there you have the right to have it refunded..
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Robotsan
Club Member
Ha same here. I got very lucky with some cars but I also bought a complete dog at least once.
Hmm maybe.
Robotsan
Club Member
Yeah that's the thing, I wasn't really prepared - I've been thinking I'll buy in a year or so when I have a bigger budget to play with. Hadn't seen a single car as clean looking at this in my budget so it took me by surprise, and looked a bit too good to be true - hence me asking for a 2nd opinion here before considering it. But by that time as you say if it is good it's usually too late.
Oh I'm definitely prepared to compromise and accept shortcomings - this car is far from perfect and the manual swap would be an expensive pain. It's just rust I'm scared of. So I would have to see the car in the flesh before putting a deposit down.
Robotsan
Club Member
Really? I've never heard that. I would've thought most dealers would take your deposit and that's that.
You've got me thinking now..