Project "Down under" 240Z - (RB25det)

[Jay.]

Good luck with this build, looks really good! I'd also recommend going over the whole shell but I can't blame you for wanting to get stuck in!

 

[Albrecht]

You won't want to hear this but :

Ignore everything else, carry on investigating the body to fully understand what you have. Those repairs are horrendous so what else lies hidden.

I’m with Rob on this. Go over the whole shell and dig deep before getting carried away on the grand plan. Those doglegs and sills are nasty and such tendencies for bodging bode ill. The rear valance and lower rear corners scream filler and bodging too.

I agree. Pretty scary stuff in the photos so far. Major structure of the bodyshell (inner and outer sills) is clearly compromised and will require big work to rectify properly.

 

[bigh]

Thanks for all of the input guys especially on the body work etc. I have planned to sand it down to see exactly whats hiding under the primer/paintwork. I certainly don't plan on tackling any welding on the body work myself, that will done by body shop.

On the engine side of things, the Haltech ECU arrived the other day.

 

[Rushingphil]

Thanks for all of the input guys especially on the body work etc. I have planned to sand it down to see exactly whats hiding under the primer/paintwork. I certainly don't plan on tackling any welding on the body work myself, that will done by body shop.

On the engine side of things, the Haltech ECU arrived the other day.

I hope I'm wrong, but I fear that getting a body shop to complete the repairs to a good standard will be prohibitively expensive. Not fancy learning the skills alongside your son?

 

[richiep]

Looking back at the first page, I’d also recommend a laser-like focus on what’s gone on with the rad support panel. It’s got plates welded onto it on both sides (there should be three holes either side of the red opening, not two) and there’s signs of deformation (top hole, left hand side). The fact it’s covered with a thick layer of underseal should set off alarm bells. It’s possibly had extensive rust damage and/or a front end whack. Something non-factory is being hidden

Get a big pack of wire brushes for your drill or grinder, and a propane torch and get scraping!

 

[Albrecht]

Looking back at the first page, I’d also recommend a laser-like focus on what’s gone on with the rad support panel. It’s got plates welded onto it on both sides (there should be three holes either side of the red opening, not two) and there’s signs of deformation (top hole, left hand side). The fact it’s covered with a thick layer of underseal should set off alarm bells. It’s possibly had extensive rust damage and/or a front end whack. Something non-factory is being hidden

Appears to me as though the whole lower radiator core support crossmember has been replaced (looks like the generic 74820 factory part with the aircon-related brackets) and the non-factory welds attaching it to the original core support panel are visible along the top edge of the new section.

Agree that this probably indicates a front-end collision in the past, and the damage to the RH core support top ledge corner - and that whole area - is also visible. Needs careful investigation. Might be a good candidate for the complete repro core support panel from APS.

 

[richiep]

As Alan says, Andy Plant/APS ("woody" on this forum) is your friend here. His complete repro core support is a no-brainer for issues like that.

 

[bigh]

Whilst awaiting the arrival new body panels and alike, the engine has been given a full service.

Broken exhaust studs removed and replace with new, just awaiting a few more seals and a head drain kit and the sump can go back on.






Also invested in an MBX tool, not cheap, but certainly does get the sticky stuff off the underside of the car.


Tis a slow and messy job.....


A spare wheel well, has been sourced so that will be going back in once we have finished with the rear hatch area. Although it is very useful being able to work in the 'hole' for the time being.




Also managed to purchase a roof skin, so the sunroof will going at some stage.

The engine will put to one side once it's completed. Then the body work will then get our full attention. Looks like we will be learning how to weld, fortunately my brother has a MIG, so plenty of practice will be taking place before we go anywhere near the car.

 

[bigh]

Plenty of fun with the MBX tool & wire wheels, to get the paint stripping under way!





Inside rear quarter


Removed the front subframe to add to the pile of parts that will be powder coated, at a later date.


Interesting drop link choice.... they will be heading to the bin!


With more parts coming off the car the car than we know what to do with, every part of the garage is being used..

 

[Ian]

MBX Tool looks to be doing a good job. Keep up the hard work

 

[tyroguru]

Nice work Howard! I might have to revert to my MBX for some stripping work. I've been blasting this weekend and the MBX might be a good alternative especially for the tricky contours.

 

[bigh]

Its been a while but the body is now stripped back to metal. Just the doors and and bonnet to do.

As many of you mentioned, there was plenty hidden beneath the Aussie 'bog' (filler to you and me).











So theres plenty of body work to be done, but at least now we can see whats ahead of us!

Upol Epoxy primer on it for now.

 

[bigh]

Rear hatch area all done and prepped with 2k primer. The usual area of the rear of the hatch will need replacing, and I have the panels from APS. This will be one of the first areas that we will tackle first when the MIG welder arrives.



The floors aren't too bad, a bit dented in places, only a few small pin holes in them, so they will be patched rather than new floors being fitted.



The engine bay is nearly ready for primer, just a few more evenings tiding up a few things. No rust under the battery, and the scuttle panels and windscreen surrounds are all good.

 

[Alphabettispaghetti]

That looks good IMO.

 

[Mark N]

The two patches on the rear lower quarters, behind the wheels, look like they filled in the bumper recesses.
They are possibly still there if you want to fit a rear bumper.

 

[bigh]

The two patches on the rear lower quarters, behind the wheels, look like they filled in the bumper recesses.
They are possibly still there if you want to fit a rear bumper.

One of the recesses has been cut out, the other side just filled in. The plan was to run without a rear bumper anyway.

 

[Garaculas]

Real nice job cleaning up the engine bay! Did you just use that MBX tool? Not something I’ve come across before

 

[bigh]

Real nice job cleaning up the engine bay! Did you just use that MBX tool? Not something I’ve come across before

Most of the engine bay was done with a 115mm diameter wire wheel on an angle grinder. The MBX tool is a great tool, and was used in the engine bay, but is better suited to removing under seal.
These polycarbide discs are a worthwhile addition to the tool box, and make light work of most painted areas.

 

[Garaculas]

Most of the engine bay was done with a 115mm diameter wire wheel on an angle grinder. The MBX tool is a great tool, and was used in the engine bay, but is better suited to removing under seal.
These polycarbide discs are a worthwhile addition to the tool box, and make light work of most painted areas.

View attachment 42032

Ah that’s good to know, I’ve already got those strip discs ready to attack mine so glad I’ve got the right thing

 

[uk66fastback]

Those discs are excellent for paint removal. Especially on the end of an angle grinder ...