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What did you do to your Z this week?
- Thread starter jonbills
- Start date
richiep
Club Member
Suppose I could always colour it in with a red felt tip! Getting an anodising kit for one retainer might be a tad excessive...
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
Suppose I could always colour it in with a red felt tip! Getting an anodising kit for one retainer might be a tad excessive...
I like it with one the 'wrong' colour'
richiep
Club Member
Spent a couple of hours out in the Fairlady Z this afternoon testing the new cable throttle and seeing how it runs with the airbox arrangement. Pedal is a bit sensitive still, but I’ve got some special long throttle levers from Eurocarb that I’ve modified further to add a bunch of extra travel into the pedal. Will fit them in the next couple of days.
In the meantime, one interesting development since fitting the cold airbox - the engine no longer runs on when ignition is turned off. The engine has always had a tendency for running on when hot (I usually stall it to stop it) but that has been eliminated. The cool, more dense fuel-air charge has changed conditions, stopping the detonation.
In the meantime, one interesting development since fitting the cold airbox - the engine no longer runs on when ignition is turned off. The engine has always had a tendency for running on when hot (I usually stall it to stop it) but that has been eliminated. The cool, more dense fuel-air charge has changed conditions, stopping the detonation.
Paul_S
Club Member
That's interesting. I remember Rob started a thread about his engine running on a short while ago...
Yes I did. Mine has the standard airbox but modified with a pipe to the front.
richiep
Club Member
The engine was rolling road tuned/ignition timed for max power rather than civility - and was already running 11.3:1 compression. So not entirely surprising. The cold air has been transformative though. Not really sure on power changes yet though - weekend A road traffic around this part of Cheshire tends to get in the way! It’s also deceptive - the howl from the engine bay has been muted a little, biasing it to the exhaust noise. Thus, I feel like I’m not going as quick - until I see the speedo...
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
Matt Berry
Club Member
richiep
Club Member
.460 lift, 270/280 split duration. One of the two Schneider stage 3 versions. On an N42 with a 1.8mm skim sitting on a block with 87mm flat tops - hence the compression.
Got my windscreen back in. Looks great.
Next job was going to be to swap the drivers door for one I bought from saccyclone. But I think I've figured out why the old door keeps cracking in the top corner, so I might just repair it again and put the posh new doors in the bank.
Next job was going to be to swap the drivers door for one I bought from saccyclone. But I think I've figured out why the old door keeps cracking in the top corner, so I might just repair it again and put the posh new doors in the bank.
Paul_S
Club Member
One of my doors has a crack in it too so I'd be interested to hear what you think has caused it.
I used to have to slam the door to shut it and never understood why. The crack is right in that top front corner.
Immediately below it, where the door seals against the sill, the seal was pressing hard against the door. so if you can imagine the door is held tight either side by the hinge and latch and effectively bending the door.
I took the seal off and the door shut really easily. The bending Combined with historical corrosion and poor repair cracks it.
So... I'm training the new Kia seal to lay flat under the door and put a shim under the lower door hinge to give it all a little more room. And done ( I hope) a better weld on the door. Time will tell!
Immediately below it, where the door seals against the sill, the seal was pressing hard against the door. so if you can imagine the door is held tight either side by the hinge and latch and effectively bending the door.
I took the seal off and the door shut really easily. The bending Combined with historical corrosion and poor repair cracks it.
So... I'm training the new Kia seal to lay flat under the door and put a shim under the lower door hinge to give it all a little more room. And done ( I hope) a better weld on the door. Time will tell!
richiep
Club Member
Sorted the pedal travel with the throttle cable conversion. Failing having the clever adjustability of a Mongoletsi twin cable system, I had to rely on geometry and a bit of invention. I bought some special long DHLA throttle/spindle levers from Eurocarb that would result in more pedal travel to achieve WOT. However, they would foul on the protrusion seen in the pics on the side of the carbs if left flat. Also, the bolt-on ball ends were part of the problem. So, I bent them to create clearance and bonded the ball-ends in place with JB Weld-style steel-reinforced epoxy. No risk of them breaking. Added some thicker than standard spindle spacers and voila! Pedal feels just about right now - shorter than standard but more than I had with the old rod linkage with the Cannon manifold. Just need a slightly longer pedal stop bolt to prevent me straining the spindles and all is good. I will be getting some custom levers machined however that will replace these modified ones as a more permanent solution. Just need to finalise the design.
Next: last pre-Donington Historic mod - shield for the air filter. Don’t need to suck up buckets of water if I end up driving in rain at some point!
Next: last pre-Donington Historic mod - shield for the air filter. Don’t need to suck up buckets of water if I end up driving in rain at some point!
johnymd
Club Member
Had a bit of paintwork done on the new silver car this week. Silver was always going to be tricky to match but as this one is far from perfect I just wanted the replacement panels to kind of match and I’m pretty happy with the results. I’ve still got quite a few jobs to do on the car but should be ready for Donny. I’m using it as a runaround over the weekend to try and get some good data logs for mapping.
Attachments
I've been tinkering with a few bits in preparation for injection.
I made a 1/2 litre Swirl pot out of a cheap oil catch tank:
And I've been looking at the thermostat housing for fitting a coolant temp sensor. My current housing on the right has the 2nd hole tapped out to m14x1.5 with a fan switch which doesn't seem to be a size for any sensors I could find.
So I've gone for a standard cosworth sensor which is m12x1.5. The Std hole ( on the left) is close, but seems to be a pipe thread so I think I'll have to pack it out a bit with plastic metal.
I made a 1/2 litre Swirl pot out of a cheap oil catch tank:
And I've been looking at the thermostat housing for fitting a coolant temp sensor. My current housing on the right has the 2nd hole tapped out to m14x1.5 with a fan switch which doesn't seem to be a size for any sensors I could find.
So I've gone for a standard cosworth sensor which is m12x1.5. The Std hole ( on the left) is close, but seems to be a pipe thread so I think I'll have to pack it out a bit with plastic metal.
johnymd
Club Member
uk66fastback
Club Member
Just put a coat of clear over that epoxy and it's good to go. I love that chalky grey colour ...
There's a tit in a slammed A3 Audi that goes past our house in the village where we live whose car is that colour. Paint looks great ...