Silver rat look 240z

johnymd

Club Member
Moving away from engine problem, as I may pull the engine now, I picked up a batch of suspension from the powdercoaters today so I may replace all the suspension and get this load done. As all the hardware on this car looks new I can reuse it without replateing.
 

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johnymd

Club Member
Small update. After much searching, I've bought a product to use to try and retain the look of the car. I was going to use a clearcoat but after much research I decided it would flake off so I've gone for a polishless wax. It's collinite hard wax and is highly recommended on lots of forums.

I have been over the workshop today and had another go at starting the car but still no joy. It will start and run for a couple of seconds but that's about it. Things I tried today: New plugs and checked for good spark. Adjusted timing. Stripped float bowls to check valves hadn't become blocked. Reset needle height correctly. Tried on fresh fuel straight from a can. Checked proper choke operation. Kicked the tires. Slammed the doors a few time. Gave it a good talking to. Tried to find a branch to hit it with but couldn't. Was going to treat the car to some nice new wheels but as it's started to **** me off, I fitted some hubcaps instead and left it sulking in the dark.
 

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jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
what do the plugs look like? if it repeatedly starts and dies, it still sounds like fuel supply or mixture to me.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
So it will keep running on easy start?

If not, just a thought in case it was something to do with the starting circuit and ballast resistor.

Nice wheels John. They almost look as if they are 'period' and made for the car. ;)
 

johnymd

Club Member
Thanks for all the advice. It's now fixed. Dean come over to the workshop today and we started fresh looking at everything. Well, mostly Dean looked at everything while I chatted to my mate. Anyway, we do not think it was any one thing but a combination of lots of little issues. All related to fuel/air. It now starts on the button and run/revs really nice. It does smoke a bit on overrun so could do with some valve guide seals but otherwise seams like a great engine.

With renewed enthusiasm I ever got around to removing the seats and cruddy carpets. Under the carpet I found the original vinyl in great condition so I just need to repair the ripped vinyl on the rear strut towers and try to get some of the glue off and it should be good to go. Floors are in the same condition as the boot area which was a nice surprise. Went through the electrics again and the main beams are a little temperamental with the switch needing to be operated a couple of times before it works. One of the indicator bulbs is out and I cant get the radio to work at the moment.

I'll continue playing tomorrow.

Rob - the wheels are original steels but have been freshly powdercoated red. They kind of go with the look of the car so will probably stay for a while. The car still need a serious suspension drop to give it any kind of sporty image as it currently looks like a jacked up 4x4.
 

tel240z

Club Member
car still need a serious suspension drop to give it any kind of sporty image as it currently looks like a jacked up 4x4.

I was just thinking suspension (again) today John for the brown car as i want to be a nice driver its got all the good bits for this like stiffer thicker body, extra door seals, better door latches, longer rear springs padded door cards possibly a better heating ventilation system (but i think the 240 is great anyway) so i am going to leave the rear suspension as factory utilize the front coil overs that come with the car to adjust the height but experiment with longer springs at a rate of 170 lb,now the rear i shall just keep the tank full and if need be put an extra 60 kg weight in the back couple of reasons for this a) its a cheap option on this car and b) i was talking to this ford bloke from SA and he see the rotas and said s'pose your going to lower it and stick some low profiles on it, that should mess the ride up (or words to that effect problem is i like the lowered look but don't want to compromise the ride, i'll let you know how i get on
 

johnymd

Club Member
I have been fortunate to enjoy driving quite a few zeds in the last 2 years and they have all felt different. The perseption of how well the car drives is not just about the suspension, although it does make up a big part of it. IMO it's all about finding the right ballence to suit you and the car your building. For this car I'm going for something similar in feel to the 260 I recently had. I do have a spare set of adjustable platform struts so this will be my starting point. Change the springs to 225lb (same as 260) and go a bit longer. 2" drop all round and see how it feels.
 

johnymd

Club Member
Been on cleaning duties today. The interior vinyl was covered in glue and the leftover sound insulation so required quite a bit of work to remove but I'm really happy with the results. The floors look good too. I don't want to remove all the vinyl from the wheel arch and strut towers so I'm going to cut off just the towers and try and just replace these bits.

Here's a few before and after shots.
 

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johnymd

Club Member
With regard to the poor running, a lot of things were altered and each one made it a little better until it finally ran OK. Here's a bit of the list: more air leaks, wrong float jet in rear carb, sticking float jet, float heights different, butterfly balance different, vacuum damper holding one butterfly open, choke sticking and holding jet up, carb airflow balance, engine running on oil rather than fuel!!!!, replaced engine oil, some **** fuel.
 

johnymd

Club Member
Had an early day today so took the seats to the trimmers, picking up Wednesday, so carried on with the interior. Mainly cleaning and fitting but a little repairing too. Its all coming together now.
 

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johnymd

Club Member
Back onto the running problems, or rather starting problems now. I tried to get the car running yesterday and it just spun over and over without even a hint of firing. I eventually gave up and got on with the interior. Before leaving tonight I thought I'd give it another go and the same thing. Spun over but just no sign of firing at all. I then sprayed a little petrol in each carb and tried it again. Fired immediately and ticked over perfect. Revved nice and after a few minutes I could push the choke in. Turned it off and it fired up again on the first turn of the key. Its as if there's not enough air flow on cranking to pick up the fuel out of the jets. Maybe float level just a little too low? It is around the 1cm down from the bridge which is what it should be.
 

Huw

Club Member
That interior has come up lovely, what the hell was wrapped around the steering wheel and why?? As to your starting issues, I don't know how a mechanical pump works on a Z, on my older British stuff I had a similar (difficult to tell) issue. Turned out to be a small perforation in the pump diaphragm. Worked fine pumping fuel with out it connected to the carb. Wouldn't pull fuel enough fuel to prime the carb when connected.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
yeah, maybe not enough pressure to overcome the resistance of the needle valve.
should be easy enough to try with an electric pump John?
 

MaximG

Well-Known Forum User
I'm sure you have checked these but don't forget the inline filters where it goes into the float chambers. Two little metal gauze filters.
 

johnymd

Club Member
The starting issue continues.

Been down the workshop this morning to have another look at the starting problems. Just to recap on what is happening now. Car won't fire from cold and just spins over. Spray a little fuel into the carbs and it fires up then runs ok. Turn it off and it will restart ok. Drive the car and it appears to run out of fuel. Leave it a few minutes and it fires up ok again. I've changes the fuel pump again but that has made no difference. its definitely a fuel issue so I thought I'd start with float levels after reading a bit on the Internet. Also checked the little filter Mike suggested and that was totally blocked with ****, thanks for the suggestion Mike. I found a good write up on how to check the actual levels which involved measuring how low the fuel is in the nozzle which seamed really easy so that's what I did. Both were around 16mm down from the bridge which is way off the correct measurement of 10mm. This required a lot of adjustment to the floats to get anywhere near this but now after running the car for 20 minutes I find the front carb level to be too high as its nearly coming out the top of the breather. Looks like more adjustment is required. I could really do with a "good" set of carbs as the set I'm trying to get working had lots of problems to start with and the other set I bought a little while ago are way beyond repair so have just been used for spares.

Anyway, tomorrow's another day so gone home to warm up.
 
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