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Silver rat look 240z
- Thread starter johnymd
- Start date
John, I thought you'd changed the filter. That would always be my first check - I've had filters blocked on all 3 of the 240s I've owned.
Sounds like a blockage somewhere.
Tank full of rust? Supply & return on back to front?
Can you put an airline on the fuel supply and blow through it? If there's rust in the pipe or pickup that would clear it for a while.
How much fuel in the tank?
Tank full of rust? Supply & return on back to front?
Can you put an airline on the fuel supply and blow through it? If there's rust in the pipe or pickup that would clear it for a while.
How much fuel in the tank?
johnymd
Club Member
Been out in the zed today doing a bit of testing.
Managed to start it after a few attempts. Initially on just one carb but after a few minutes the other one started working. Let it get up to temperature and went for a drive. Made it about 1/4 mile and it cut out. Both float chambers were nearly empty along with the lines that feed them. blew into both carb inlets and the float valves were both open. Fuel filter was about 1/4 full but rising. Disconnected the outlet from the pump and blew down both carb lines and hard line round the engine was clear. Turned over the engine and only a small amount of fuel came out the pump. Removed petrol cap, no change. After about five minutes I tried it again and the float bowls started filling up and the car started. Drove fine but only just made it back to the workshop before it cut out with no fuel in the bowls. Fitted my old fuel pump and went for another drive. Same as above happened. I'm getting closer and coming to the same conclusion as Jon which is a blockage in the line. Connected an air line to both supply and return. May have now dislodged some ****.
There's only a couple of gallons in the tank. I'll take the sender out tomorrow and drain the tank to see what its like.
On a plus side, it drives nice with the dampers working and steering nice after changing the rack mount bushes.
Managed to start it after a few attempts. Initially on just one carb but after a few minutes the other one started working. Let it get up to temperature and went for a drive. Made it about 1/4 mile and it cut out. Both float chambers were nearly empty along with the lines that feed them. blew into both carb inlets and the float valves were both open. Fuel filter was about 1/4 full but rising. Disconnected the outlet from the pump and blew down both carb lines and hard line round the engine was clear. Turned over the engine and only a small amount of fuel came out the pump. Removed petrol cap, no change. After about five minutes I tried it again and the float bowls started filling up and the car started. Drove fine but only just made it back to the workshop before it cut out with no fuel in the bowls. Fitted my old fuel pump and went for another drive. Same as above happened. I'm getting closer and coming to the same conclusion as Jon which is a blockage in the line. Connected an air line to both supply and return. May have now dislodged some ****.
There's only a couple of gallons in the tank. I'll take the sender out tomorrow and drain the tank to see what its like.
On a plus side, it drives nice with the dampers working and steering nice after changing the rack mount bushes.
johnymd
Club Member
My money is on in the tank.
Get a transparent filter so you can see if it's catching anything.
I foolishly tried to seal the sender on mine once with silicone sealant. I went through about 1/2 dozen filters before it stopped cutting out like yours
Get a transparent filter so you can see if it's catching anything.
I foolishly tried to seal the sender on mine once with silicone sealant. I went through about 1/2 dozen filters before it stopped cutting out like yours
atomman
Club Member
Had a very similar problem with my old 240 , turned out to be the previous owner had used tank sealer in tank and some of it had come away and was floating around and every now and again being sucked onto the pick up pipe and blocking it , then when the engine was turned off it would float off again for a while then block it again,
I went through everything until I took the tank out and found it
hope this helps
Gary
I went through everything until I took the tank out and found it
hope this helps
Gary
johnymd
Club Member
Yep. Tank is the next place to look. I have been really lucky so far with all the imports as every one has had a spotless fuel tank.
I'm using the usual translucent filters. The first one I put on clogged up pretty quick but the second one still looks clear. I've just had another 2 arrive in the post today so will change it tomorrow after I've cleaned the tank out.
Thanks again for all the advice.
I'm using the usual translucent filters. The first one I put on clogged up pretty quick but the second one still looks clear. I've just had another 2 arrive in the post today so will change it tomorrow after I've cleaned the tank out.
Thanks again for all the advice.
tel240z
Club Member
Nice shiny fuel pump there John i presume it works fine 
does seem like you have crud in the tank and quite possibly large lumps that wont make it to the filter, just get caught up in the bends in the pipes then fall back when you switch off, remember me at Spa sticking a cable tie in the first bend in the metal pipe comiing out of the tank
does seem like you have crud in the tank and quite possibly large lumps that wont make it to the filter, just get caught up in the bends in the pipes then fall back when you switch off, remember me at Spa sticking a cable tie in the first bend in the metal pipe comiing out of the tank
johnymd
Club Member
Drained the tank and removed it today for inspection. The tank is in great condition with most of the paint intact, no dents, and zero rust, on the outside. The inside is where all the rust has been hiding. It was full of the stuff. I'm surprise I got any fuel out of it.
With it being in such good condition outside it had to be worth saving it so I took it down the road to the local car wash and got them to spend half hour blasting and flushing with the jet washer. You wouldn't believe the mess if made on their forecourt. With all the loose bits removed you could now see patches of bare metal and it didn't look too bad. I took a trip to travis Perkins to pick up a gallon brick cleaner. This contains a very low quantity of hydrochloric acid which should remove the rest of the surface rust. I've left it to work over night. Fingers crossed.
With it being in such good condition outside it had to be worth saving it so I took it down the road to the local car wash and got them to spend half hour blasting and flushing with the jet washer. You wouldn't believe the mess if made on their forecourt. With all the loose bits removed you could now see patches of bare metal and it didn't look too bad. I took a trip to travis Perkins to pick up a gallon brick cleaner. This contains a very low quantity of hydrochloric acid which should remove the rest of the surface rust. I've left it to work over night. Fingers crossed.
Sounds like you've finally got to the route course of your problems
Reminds me of the '**** in the tank' joke.
The old ones are the best.
johnymd
Club Member
It's taken a while but I think the tank is nearly ready to go back in.
After the initial jet washing, which removed most of the lumps and loose rust, I moved on to acid cleaning. The only product I could find yesterday was brick cleaner. I emptied a gallon into the tank and let it sit for a while. After an hour there appeared to be no change so I left it pickling over night. This morning there as still very little progress so I got a hot air blower and started to heat up the tank. After 15 mins of warming I noticed fumes were now coming out of the tank. This was looking better. I then sealed all the outlets in the tank and started shaking the tank and continued heating it. An hour latter I drained the tank of a really rusty acid solution. *** was certainly looking better inside but still had a way to go so time for a fresh gallon of brick cleaner and more heating/agitating. Another hour latter and pretty much all the rust was gone so took it back to the jet wash to remove all traces of acid and it came out looking like new. The problem is by the time I got the tank dried it was covered in a very light dusting of surface rust.
After the initial jet washing, which removed most of the lumps and loose rust, I moved on to acid cleaning. The only product I could find yesterday was brick cleaner. I emptied a gallon into the tank and let it sit for a while. After an hour there appeared to be no change so I left it pickling over night. This morning there as still very little progress so I got a hot air blower and started to heat up the tank. After 15 mins of warming I noticed fumes were now coming out of the tank. This was looking better. I then sealed all the outlets in the tank and started shaking the tank and continued heating it. An hour latter I drained the tank of a really rusty acid solution. *** was certainly looking better inside but still had a way to go so time for a fresh gallon of brick cleaner and more heating/agitating. Another hour latter and pretty much all the rust was gone so took it back to the jet wash to remove all traces of acid and it came out looking like new. The problem is by the time I got the tank dried it was covered in a very light dusting of surface rust.
Attachments
racer
Club Member
I used this on my tank years ago when I had a slight leak around the seem.
It worked perfectly and must of been in there for over 10 years now.
http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-car-bike-motorcyle-fuel-tank-repair-sealer.html
It worked perfectly and must of been in there for over 10 years now.
http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-car-bike-motorcyle-fuel-tank-repair-sealer.html