z28 to 3100ccm?

Amazombi

Well-Known Forum User
Hi I would like to put a 2.8 into my 240Z but I have to do all the complete Engine cause its a Frame of restauration and I think I would like to but it to 3100ccm. There is a Big Bore Kit from MOTORSPORT, to order from USA. What Would I have to do? Does anybody here have any experence with this Kit? I have two Heads to take, one is a N42 and the other one is a E88. What is the diffrence? They look the same. As you can imagine I do not know a lot about the Z cars but I like mine and if I do the restoration I will do it allready the right way.
Thanks a lot for any advice.
:confused:
 

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Hello Amazombi:
The Motorsports Kit is only the basic starting point. Motorsports has simply gathered together the Maxima Diesel Crank, the right length rod and a set of pistons. This is most certainly NOT a simple bolt-in operation.

As the ad. says - the pistons are designed to be cut down. You have to determine which head you are going to use, what compression ratio you can buy fuel to support. Once you know the size of the combustion chambers, and you have the head set up - you have to test fit the head to block to make sure the pistons don't hit the valves.

Of course then you have to select a cam profile before doing the above, buy the cam etc. Then you have to determine what fuel system your going to run - it takes some modified SU's to feed the 3.1L. Add to that all the expense normally associated with an engine rebuild...

Mostly you have to have a good working relationship with your local machine shop.


If you go to the Z Car Home Page at: http://ZHome.com

In the Left Hand Frame select the titled Section: " Z For Road & Track"

Then Select the hyper-link to the Subsection titled: "Modifications For More HP"

In the Right Hand Frame you will find a couple of articles about building
a 3.1L L28.

If you go back to the Top Level of the Left Hand Frame (the top level index)
Then select the Section titled: "Z Technical Library"
The select the Subsction titled: "Index Of Technical Articles"
Then in the Right Hand Frame scroll down to the "Engine" section.

You will find complete information about the heads used on the L
series engines in the Z Cars. Look under both "Head" and "Block" subsections. As a lot of information about the heads is combined with the Bore and Stroke info.

In short the N42 head has 44.6 cc combustion chambers and the P90 head has 53.6 cc combustion chambers. You will most likely want to use your P90 on a stroker motor.

HybridZ.org is another web site with lots of information about building stroker motors.

If you haven't already considered it - you might want to build an L28 Turbo instead. A basically stock L28 Turbo can easily put out 275HP with more or less minor modifications. Just up the boost to around 10 or 11psi. It would wind up being more street'able at lower speeds. In either case it's pretty easy to spend $6K to $8K US Dollars on the engine build here.

Good looking project car!, enjoy every minute of the project...
kind regards,
Carl


Carl Beck
Clearwater,FL USA
http://ZHome.com
 
Carl
The turbo route sounds more and more interesting. I've got a 280 engine waiting to go in the 240 sometime this year and was toying with the idea of turbocharging. Whats the difference between the NA and turbo versions, and how easy is the upgrade. I don't think the turbo version was available in the UK so parts are non existant. The bits seem to be easyer to get hold of over there.

As I will be in Orlando from the 2nd June for a couple of weeks, it may turn out to be a shopping trip (I'll need to get the wife to travel light and give up her suitcase space for my car bits - I can't see a problem with that).

PS.
Do you know of any car shows on around this time.

Regards
John
 
Dear Carl, thank you very much youre answer is very intresting!
It seems for me that it would be a long and payfull way for me to go on 3100cc! But here in Austria we dont have many "Z" actually allmost none. I bought my 240Z 18month ago and havent seen not even one other. Some 260,280 and 300 but never a 240! so there is no market on which you can buy some parts.The Turbo would be a great idea but I havent got a Turbo-engine anywere. I have another nice old car which is running very well with DGV Weber Carb. so I thought about doing the same with the "Z" but not the 32/36 Weber and two of them, I will do it with 28/36 DGV Weber and three of them I will fix the manifold by myself. I bought a Hooker Header allready wich will work very well with the Webers I think. If I but this on the Stock rebuildet 2.8 engine, what would you say how much HP could but this out? Its not easy to say, I know but maybe, you can tell me how to get some more power on a easy way with just my small part dealerhere in my country. And if I order in U.S. the shipping cost would be crazy high.
Thank`s for all youre information, Amazombi.
 
>Johnymd wrote:
>Carl
>The turbo route sounds more and more interesting. I've got a 280 engine waiting to
>go in the 240 sometime this year and was toying with the idea of
>turbocharging. Whats the difference between the NA and turbo versions,
>and how easy is the upgrade.

Hi John:
How easy the up-grade is, depends upon how far you want to "UP"-Grade. If you stick with a basically stock set up, then make minor, mostly bolt-on changes.. you can build an already good running L28 Turbo up to around 250 to 275 RWHP safely. Basically that involves increasing the boost and controlling the boost increase, adding an inter-cooler.. so you stay under 11 lbs. of boost.

Above 11lbs. (300HP - 450HP) you need forged pistons, o-ringed blocks, larger flow injectors and a modern engine management system. In both cases you need to modify the 240-Z fuel supply lines (larger than OEM), and provide enough fuel pressure. Most people here simply take the Fuel Injected 75 fuel tanks out of the 280Z's and use them (baffled).

The L28 block was redesigned with a casting change in 81 to the "F-54" casting. There is much debate as to why the L28 was recast. Some believe it was for the "Turbo engine" (because that was when it was introduced)... others say that it was simply done to provide better coolant circulation for the hotter running emissions engines.

The funny thing is - most of the super performance shops and engine builders say that the old blocks are better to start with , if your going to modify them in any way. They are convinced that the cylinder wall thickness is greater and more uniform in the pre-F54 blocks.

Almost everyone agrees that if you stay under 11 lbs of boost either block in good condition is fine to use, with the turbo pistons.

In general terms and off the top of my head - main difference between the turbo and non-turbo was: the Turbo Pistons/rings (thicker piston top to hold and dissipate the additional heat from combustion), Turbo Oil Pump (10% more volume to feed the oil cooler), turbo head bolts, and the P90/P90a heads. The compression ratio was significantly lower on the turbo engines. Of course then you had the differences in the exhaust manifold to mount the turbo. The turbo fuel injectors were also high rate flow, and the ECU is different.

>I don't think the turbo version was available in the UK so parts are non
>existant. The bits seem to be easyer to get hold of over there.

All the differences could be packed in a few medium size boxes. None-the-less shipping is very expensive on small scales. On a per unit basis, it might be far less expensive to come over here, buy six or eight 81/83 turbo engines and put them in a shipping container to ship via "ship".

>As I will be in Orlando from the 2nd June for a couple of weeks, it may turn
>out to be a shopping trip (I'll need to get the wife to travel light and give up
>her suitcase space for my car bits - I can't see a problem with that).

Plan on taking a Ship back home and your in business!!

>PS.
>Do you know of any car shows on around this time.

Not at this time. The ZFest in Orlando is this coming weekend. Of course if you stay until the middle of June....(a few extra days)
The Z Car Club Association (ZCCA) National Z Car Convention Monday June 14 thru Saturday June 19th. (Car Show the 19th). Group Z in L.A. is the Host Club this year.

http://www.groupz.com/zcca2004/index.html

regards,
Carl
 
>Johnymd wrote:
>Carl
>The turbo route sounds more and more interesting. I've got a 280 engine waiting to
>go in the 240 sometime this year and was toying with the idea of
>turbocharging. Whats the difference between the NA and turbo versions,
>and how easy is the upgrade.

Hi John:
How easy the up-grade is, depends upon how far you want to "UP"-Grade. If you stick with a basically stock set up, then make minor, mostly bolt-on changes.. you can build an already good running L28 Turbo up to around 250 to 275 RWHP safely. Basically that involves increasing the boost and controlling the boost increase, adding an inter-cooler.. so you stay under 11 lbs. of boost.

Above 11lbs. (300HP - 450HP) you need forged pistons, o-ringed blocks, larger flow injectors and a modern engine management system. In both cases you need to modify the 240-Z fuel supply lines (larger than OEM), and provide enough fuel pressure. Most people here simply take the Fuel Injected 75 fuel tanks out of the 280Z's and use them (baffled).

The L28 block was redesigned with a casting change in 81 to the "F-54" casting. There is much debate as to why the L28 was recast. Some believe it was for the "Turbo engine" (because that was when it was introduced)... others say that it was simply done to provide better coolant circulation for the hotter running emissions engines.

The funny thing is - most of the super performance shops and engine builders say that the old blocks are better to start with , if your going to modify them in any way. They are convinced that the cylinder wall thickness is greater and more uniform in the pre-F54 blocks.

Almost everyone agrees that if you stay under 11 lbs of boost either block in good condition is fine to use, with the turbo pistons.

In general terms and off the top of my head - main difference between the turbo and non-turbo was: the Turbo Pistons/rings (thicker piston top to hold and dissipate the additional heat from combustion), Turbo Oil Pump (10% more volume to feed the oil cooler), turbo head bolts, and the P90/P90a heads. The compression ratio was significantly lower on the turbo engines. Of course then you had the differences in the exhaust manifold to mount the turbo. The turbo fuel injectors were also high rate flow, and the ECU is different.

>I don't think the turbo version was available in the UK so parts are non
>existant. The bits seem to be easyer to get hold of over there.

All the differences could be packed in a few medium size boxes. None-the-less shipping is very expensive on small scales. On a per unit basis, it might be far less expensive to come over here, buy six or eight 81/83 turbo engines and put them in a shipping container to ship via "ship".

>As I will be in Orlando from the 2nd June for a couple of weeks, it may turn
>out to be a shopping trip (I'll need to get the wife to travel light and give up
>her suitcase space for my car bits - I can't see a problem with that).

Plan on taking a Ship back home and your in business!!

>PS.
>Do you know of any car shows on around this time.

Not at this time. The ZFest in Orlando is this coming weekend. Of course if you stay until the middle of June....(a few extra days)
The Z Car Club Association (ZCCA) National Z Car Convention Monday June 14 thru Saturday June 19th. (Car Show the 19th). Group Z in L.A. is the Host Club this year.

http://www.groupz.com/zcca2004/index.html

regards,
Carl
 
Amazombi wrote:
>Dear Carl, thank you very much you're answer is very intresting!
>It seems for me that it would be a long and payfull way for me to
>go on 3100cc! But here in Austria we dont have many "Z" actually
>allmost none. I bought my 240Z 18month ago and havent seen not
>even one other. Some 260,280 and 300 but never a 240! so there
>is no market on which you can buy some parts.The Turbo would be >a great idea but I havent got a Turbo-engine anywere.

Hi Amazombi:
If you are thinking of building a performance engine, you might consider an engine swap. In Austria, I'd look at using one of the newer BMW in-line sixes. You might have to use an after-market engine management system but it might make a very interesting project. The newer 3.2 or 3.3 liters can put out 280 to 330 hp!! (yeiks!!). All you need is a friend at the wrecking yard and maybe a BMW mechanic.(oh yes and lots of cash).

>I have another nice old car which is running very well with DGV
>Weber Carb. so I thought about doing the same with the "Z" but
>not the 32/36 Weber and two of them, I will do it with 28/36 DGV
>Weber and three of them I will fix the manifold by myself.

The problem with the DGV's is that they are down-drafts - so the incoming fuel/air charge has to make a 90 degree bend before entering the intake ports on the head. From a air/fuel supply perspective the sidedraft DCOE's are far superior on the in-line six.

The above said - the carb.'s ability to supply volumes of air/fuel charge is limited by the engines ability to draw it in, and then use it effectively/efficiently. On an otherwise stock L28 you can't beat the the 70-72 SU's. Rebello (a real performance engine builder - equip's his 3.1L engines with bored SU's instead of the triple Webers for anything driven on the street, or below 7500RPM).

>I bought a Hooker Header allready wich will work very well with the >Webers I think.

Depends a lot on how much head flow work you are willing to have done, and then it depends on who does the work. Most of the performance gains to be had with the L28 are found in improving the flow through the head, and greatly increasing the compression ratio. But then you have to run very high octane racing fuel. At 14:1 compression on an L28 overbored/stroked to 3.1L it is possible to get 250/275HP. But you wouldn't want to drive it on the street and it would be hard to drive below 4500RPM.

>If I but this on the Stock rebuildet 2.8 engine,
>what would you say how much HP could but this out?

On basically stock L24/28's - on every dyno run that was conducted in simi controlled conditions, adding headers showed very little if any gains in HP. Removing the Air Cleaner (leaving the air cleaner base in place with the air horns) picked up about 5hp, changing to a free flowing exhaust, past the stock header pipes, picked up between 8 and 12 hp (with stock 70-72 exhaust manifolds - no difference with headers).

>Its not easy to say, I know but maybe, you can tell me how to get >some more power on a easy way with just my small part dealerhere >in my country.

1. a complete tune up, with good ignition, proper ignition timing, electronic ignition, correct valve adjustments, correct tune on the SU's, no vacuum leaks etc will yield the most HP gain per dollar on the typical street engine.

2. The free flowing exhaust is the second best bang for the buck. 2.25 inch or 2.5inch diameter.

3. A fresh valve job (properly done) is most likely the third best bang for the buck. Relive the valves, do some mild port matching at the same time. Maybe pick up a half a point of compression.

Depending on which L28 you have - flat top pistons or dished.. the selection of the head you are going to use can make a difference. With flat top pistons the 72 E88 or the later N42 head makes the most HP and you can keep the compression ratio just below or at 10:1 and run 92 Octane fuel.

Past that you have to willing to spend much more money on trick head work, then the intake and and headers will make a more significant HP contribution.

The least expensive way to pick up real HP on the L series engines is turbo charging. Of course here in the US it's hard to beat the dollar for dollar performance increases of swapping in a Chevy V8. But in either case it's lots of custom work and lots more money.

>And if I order in U.S. the shipping cost would be crazy high.

Yes isn't it simply amazing, in these days of "World Free Trade" that only the huge companies can afford to ship stuff from China all over the world... while individuals find shipping all but impossible to afford.

>Thank`s for all youre information, Amazombi.

I'm afraid I didn't give you much that will be of much use. But it's always fun to discuss.

kind regards,
Carl
 
Carl
Thanks for all the info.
The more I read, the more it looks like turbo is the way to go (especially on my limited budget). 250 to 275 RWHP looks good to me and should come in at the right sort of money. With the good exchange rate it looks like state side shopping is the way to go(even with shipping costs), so its time to think shopping lists.

If I use my existing non turbo 280 engine(check its got a P90 when I can get to it, or increase the chamber size if its not). I will need:

Standard Turbo pistons, turbo oil pump, head bolts, turbo sump?, Manifolds, injectors, throttle body, wastegate, fuel pump, elctronics(ecu, loom, sensors.) - or do I go aftermarket management, and turbo (oops, nearly forgot that). Basically all the bits to make it turbo and injection.

Now, if i'm going this way do I bother with all the 20 year old electrics and associated emmision toot or do I go aftermarket programable. Any idea how much the bumps up the cost.

Then again, there always the container idea. 8 turbo engines with all the external bits in a £1200 container - look doable. Now who can I sell the other 7 to?. I'll have to talk to a friend of mine who owns a freight forwarding company.

Going to check the bank ballance, talk soon.

John

PS.
Wonder how the wife will feel about me spending our 2 week holiday shopping for Z bits?.
 
Johnymd wrote:
>...snipped...
>Now, if i'm going this way do I bother with all the 20 year old
>electrics and associated emmision toot or do I go aftermarket
>programable. Any idea how much the bumps up the cost.
>....snipped...


Hi Johnymd (everyone):
Pricing for after market Engine Management Systems seem's to run between $900.00 and $1800.00 here. Then for some reason there are other hidden costs. Buying a pre-tested program (fuel maps), or fine tuning your system on a chassis dyno takes dyno time.

Some very general information, it takes a book to get specific in this area. This will apply to projects aimed at the 250/275HP range and the intention of keeping the costs down. When it comes to performance the sky is the limit - so we'll limit this discussion. We'll also recognize that each project and each person are different. So there are no absolutes.

Most of the guys I know, start with a whole running car, to use for parts. Most of the time you want an 82/83 280ZX Turbo (the 81's came only as A/T). Most of the time they pay between $500.00 and $1000.00. (the lower the mileage and/or the better it runs the more it costs - most of these cars have bodies that are rusted beyond repair and over 150K miles).

If you shop the junk yards, you can pick up Turbo engines for around $150.00 to $250.00 if you pull them yourself. The advantage to buying running cars is that your not buying a complete pig-in-a-poke, and not knowing exactly what all you need to start with - you simply have more of your bases covered with a whole running car.

So $250 for the engine, $250 for the T-5, $175.00 for the R200... you might as well buy a whole car.

With the parts car you usually get the engine, transmission (T-5) and the 3.9 rear R200. If you want to run the factory Fuel Injection, you also get the wiring harness and ECU's.

If you can afford it, the aftermarket Engine Management Systems are the way to go. Fully programmable and distributor-less ignition are hard to beat. Add $1000.00 to $1500.00.

There are many cost trade-off's to be made along the way. The Factory Turbo Fuel Injectors for example cost about $145-$165.00 each, so it's easy to spend $700. on injectors alone. Arizona Z Car sells a custom Turbo Intake, that is much cleaner than the OEM set up for about $750.00 including a custom fuel rail - BUT you can then run standard GM injectors that cost about $65.00 each.. so what you spend on the manifold, you might save on injectors and fuel rails. Plus savings downstream if you have to replace the injectors.
http://www.arizonazcar.com/manifold.html

The OEM Turbo Pistons are fine up to around 11 lbs of boost - as a guess they run about $650.00. Aftermarket Forged Pistons, good for over 18 lbs of boost run about the same. Is it worth the extra money to provide for future upgrades if desired? Might as well over-bore it while your at it and pick-up a few more cc's... 0-ring the block, use ARP head studs...(where does it stop?;-)


Maybe the engine you wind up with doesn't need the bottom end rebuilt - do you rebuild it anyway? - just because you have it out of the car? (many people think that you can not get a rebuild done to the quality of the original engine. That is to say they would rather run a factory engine with 100K miles, than run a locally rebuilt engine. The long blocks in these cars are all but indestructible if they have had any care at all. So a rebuild on a good running engine is a complete waste of money if you stay below 300HP etc etc.

All these trade-off's, each person has to decide on their own, it's hard NOT to get carried away.

There are shops here that will build an L28 Turbo with 300+HP that you can drop in - usual cost to have everything done is around $7,000.00. That's with forged pistons, o-ringed block.

A few years ago for example:
370 RWHP at 15 psi boost (430 HP max at 21 psi) with Aria's at 8:1 CR, DI Total Seal, Plazma Moly Top rings, with block O-ring;
Leakage 3-5% after 60K mi over 8 years, some track time. Cost to build for a customer was $7K.

Starting with a good running 280ZX-Turbo - adding the external mod's... maybe less than $4K. While an inter-cooler is always recommended - you can run around 10 lbs of boost for shorter periods if you have a good engine management system. Most of the time, most of us would not be at full boost for more than a 15 seconds anyway.

Like I said, it would take a book to cover all the details, but hope this gives you some benchmarks to consider.

kind regards,
Carl
69, 70, 71, 72, 72 & 73 BRE Baja Z
280ZX Turbo for parts;-)
 
Hi Johnymd, what would you say if I gonna take one of the complette Turbo engines? I think it would be the best way for me too to get some more Power in my 240Z. What do you think about this idea?
Best regards, Amazombi.:D
 
Amazombi
Its a nice idea but.....its just not going to happen. I'm sure others have explored this avenue and been confronted with the logistical problem of getting this many engines together to make it economical, in a short period of time (How much time can you get of work), get them shipped back, and still make it financially viable. As Carl says, you need to buy a complete car and strip of all the bits you require. Buying the bits individually just starts to add up to too much.

I was looking more at the option of buying (mainly used) the bits I needed to convert my engine, not because I thought it would be cheaper, but to reduce the shipping costs. It may be cheaper to buy it complete and have it crated and shipped. I’ll have to make some enquires.

I need to get back to reality and look at the most economical way to get the most HP for my money NOW and explore the aftermarket stuff later (unless you know of any bargain up for grabs – Carl). And this has got to be a used turbo engine, complete with all the bits.

Asked around with regard to shipping and the costs aren’t as bad as I thought (if you arrange it from the US. Better still, a friend of my father in-law has got a 40’ container coming back from Florida in a couple of months, and he should be able to squeeze an engine in.

Carl, don’t know of anything that fits the bill?.

Regards
John
 
Just to add, I am going down the 3.1 road, and I am looking at about £1000 for the machine work alone..boring with torque plate, balancing etc...but its critical with this route to pay for the work done properly rather than using just the cheapest machine shop. Let alone the internals I have already got. As Sean says try Dave Jarman, though I went through help in the States. So, going the 3.1 road is not cheap......

Cheers
Ian
 
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