Well my head gasket replacements last year have failed probably due to using none genuine ajusa gaskets. Just over 1k and I started having oil and water mixing issues. A bore scope confirmed water in the cylinders so I’ve been busy stripping the engine down as follows .....
My suspicions were confirmed when I removed the rocker covers. The offside being worse out of the two. Today heads off and the block has just been dropped off at the engine shop for a 1mm overbore and new rings and ACL bearings. The pistons are American called engine tech and I can’t fault the quality and price at £180 delivered. Also I’ve got the last Genuine head gasket in the UK and one from courtesy parts to make sure they seal!
I've been quoted 2 weeks turnaround at the machine shop. I'm hoping the crank won't need a regrind as I can only get standard ACL bearings next day. The oversize ones are 2/4 week delay. I was also surprised to find that the original clutch was in the still attached with quite a bit of meat left even after 120k!. I have a replacement anyways as I'm not taking the risk. A decent borg&beck 240mm cost me £75 delivered. I'll keep you posted on progress
Just of the phone to the engine shop and it seems my left cylinder head is cracked and not repairable. That explains the oil/water mixing then! Anyone know of any heads for sale ? There are a pair on eBay but they are a unknown quantity.
bad news how common are faults like that on VG30 heads? if it was an L engine I wouldn't worry about trying an unknown ebay head.
Turns out it was the driverside and the crack it’s at the bottom through the cam bearing also. I have a video which I’m trying to attach. I’ve manage to source another pair so I’ll keep you posted. The crank is fine with no wear so a quick polish and I’ll be using standard ACL bearings.
The site doesn't allow video uploads due to the size - you'll need to put them on somewhere like YouTube and link them.
Little update today! block has been bored to 1mm oversize. The crank was fine and just needed a polish. Pistons fitted to the rods and new ACL std bearings fitted and crank torque up! I’ve got everything I now need to start building it up. It’s on the engine stand so over the next few weeks, I’ll be cleaning and painting parts. The replacement head I got for the RH crack head was in good nick. Both have had a light skin and all the guides were good. Valves all recut and lapped in with new seals. Still can’t figure out how to upload the pressure test on the cracked head I also fitted some upgraded steering rack bushes while the lump was out
Been slow progress due to the engine builders losing an M8 bolt for the oil pump. NLA from Nissan so got 2 stainless bolts which I’ve cut to size to fit. New Hitachi oil pump fitted and new crank seal at the other end. Can’t fit the sump yet as the end seals in my Ajusa set, did not fit. They are too NLA from Nissan so having to order from Rockauto which should be here next week. That will give me a chance to paint the block and let it cure
More progress over the last week, block fitted the flywheel, new clutch, new mounts and cleaning parts. The loom, alternator and starter were all filthy so I used about 6 cans of brake cleaner.
Coolant pipe and thermostat in the V, Cylinder heads, timing gear using a new SKF kit and the cleaned hydraulic lifter assemblies. I’ve had the rocker covers blasted and powder coated in silver. I’m using new stainless posi machine screws to Bolt them down. I’ve oil up the valve assemblies to prevent metal on metal on start up
Little update sorry it’s been a while but had a lot on with work shifts etc. Basically had a nightmare as the engine locked up when trying to prime the oil pump on the starter with no plugs in and ignition off. Basically and this is a warning to all, the oil pump was totally dry inside and not even an ounce of lube to aid priming! This all happened after 3 spins on the starter of 15 seconds. Nothing in the instructions from the packaging at all but I did lube the valve train with the rockers off as per the fsm. I knew it was the pump as looking at it from the front I noticed a crack in the casing! I hadn’t built up the inlet so it was a case of engine out and installing a new pump. I removed the rear case and filled it full of grease to aid oil pressure. I checked the bottom engine and everything was good. Engine is now in and running sweet. I’ve been for a quick 10 mile drive and it seems more responsive so now for break in responsively and oil changes as per the fsm
Hahaha yup but all good now! Lesson learnt but just as well they are cheap as on Rockauto and only take 3/4 days to arrive