-
The Z Club relies on the support of it's paid members - join the club or renew your membership here.
Rear subframe removal
- Thread starter SRRAE
- Start date
STEVE BURNS
Club Member
I take it Im venturing in to Zclub no-man's land.
Tell you how I get on.
Its a sorry state of affairs that no Z32 enthusiast has replied
Its a bit like the chicken and the egg
The Z32 owner comes and has a look thinks it quiet in here and the reason it is quiet is Hardly any Z32 owner posts up anything as they think its too quiet
zedhead260
Well-Known Forum User
Yes.
Nope.
Sorry no, it was a long time ago and I've never worked on a Z32 since.
I'm sure you'll do just fine.
Mr.F
Inactive
Carl at the workshop we (MJP) use has tackled this unpleasant task a couple of times for customers in order to replace the dreaded rusty brake pipes and to remove corner bushes for urethane replacements. However, I don't think I could personally write a definitive report on how to do it most effectively!
If you want to contact me direct I'll give you Carl's number and he will probably be happy to discuss techniques with you.
I know his two post ramp and gearbox support jack come into play and I wouldn't recommend doing it on the drive with axle stands...
If you want to contact me direct I'll give you Carl's number and he will probably be happy to discuss techniques with you.
I know his two post ramp and gearbox support jack come into play and I wouldn't recommend doing it on the drive with axle stands...
Hi Stuart,
Sorry for the delay, not been online much lately
It is a pig of a job, I've done a few now on axle stands. While its off, if not already done I'd strongly suggest replacing the brake lines that run above it. EDIT: Just seen your other thread. I'd replace ALL the lines that run along that section as they will all be in a similar condition You will need about 30ft of pipe and about 10 flare nuts. Front inner arch liner will need to be removed, along with the plastic covers that run the length of the car (be carefull of bolts shearing). All 3 pipes can be removed as a unit, then copied with new copper pipe and refitted to the car as a whole piece again. Trust me, when you get the subframe off you will see that they will ALL be in the same condition. The only pipe that tends to survive is the line that runs down the passenger side to the front caliper (this is a god send as it is a nightmare to remove due to running through the engine bay). Why the hell Nissan used steel pipe on a section of the car exposed to salt and water is beyond me.... You will need 3/16" tubing and male full threaded brake pipe nuts, 10mm x 1mm for 3/16" pipe:
Some examples from ebay:
Tubing (2 rolls required): http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/COPPER-BRAKE-...5810643QQihZ018QQcategoryZ36631QQcmdZViewItem
Nuts (1bag is plenty): http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50-MALE-F-TH-...5870453QQihZ004QQcategoryZ30928QQcmdZViewItem
Basic procedure for subframe removal:
Undo bolts holding prop to diff.
Undo shock upper mounts (the 2 12mm nuts NOT the 14mm shaft nut ), requires removal of interior trim panels
Undo HICAS feed pipes at banjo connections above passenger driveshaft (if HICAS still present)
Disconnect Diff cooler lines (if UK model)
Disconnect rear brake feed pipes either side inboard of rubber flexi hose
Disconnect handbrake cables, preferably from the car otherwise the brakes will need to be dismantled
Disconnect ABS and diff electrical connections
Place trolley jack under Diff
Undo rear Subframe nuts
Undo front brace nuts then the front Subframe nuts
Slowly lower trolley jack, constantly checking that there are no pipes/connections still attached
Be VERY carefull, the whole assemble is incredibly heavy!!!!
Once its down, roll it out from under the car on the trolley jack
Refitting is reversal of above blah blah (god I sound like a haynes manual )
I'm pretty sure that's just about everything
Any problems let us know
Cheers,
Andy
Sorry for the delay, not been online much lately
It is a pig of a job, I've done a few now on axle stands. While its off, if not already done I'd strongly suggest replacing the brake lines that run above it. EDIT: Just seen your other thread. I'd replace ALL the lines that run along that section as they will all be in a similar condition
You will need about 30ft of pipe and about 10 flare nuts. Front inner arch liner will need to be removed, along with the plastic covers that run the length of the car (be carefull of bolts shearing). All 3 pipes can be removed as a unit, then copied with new copper pipe and refitted to the car as a whole piece again. Trust me, when you get the subframe off you will see that they will ALL be in the same condition. The only pipe that tends to survive is the line that runs down the passenger side to the front caliper (this is a god send as it is a nightmare to remove due to running through the engine bay). Why the hell Nissan used steel pipe on a section of the car exposed to salt and water is beyond me.... You will need 3/16" tubing and male full threaded brake pipe nuts, 10mm x 1mm for 3/16" pipe:Some examples from ebay:
Tubing (2 rolls required): http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/COPPER-BRAKE-...5810643QQihZ018QQcategoryZ36631QQcmdZViewItem
Nuts (1bag is plenty): http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50-MALE-F-TH-...5870453QQihZ004QQcategoryZ30928QQcmdZViewItem
Basic procedure for subframe removal:
Undo bolts holding prop to diff.
Undo shock upper mounts (the 2 12mm nuts NOT the 14mm shaft nut
), requires removal of interior trim panelsUndo HICAS feed pipes at banjo connections above passenger driveshaft (if HICAS still present)
Disconnect Diff cooler lines (if UK model)
Disconnect rear brake feed pipes either side inboard of rubber flexi hose
Disconnect handbrake cables, preferably from the car otherwise the brakes will need to be dismantled
Disconnect ABS and diff electrical connections
Place trolley jack under Diff
Undo rear Subframe nuts
Undo front brace nuts then the front Subframe nuts
Slowly lower trolley jack, constantly checking that there are no pipes/connections still attached
Be VERY carefull, the whole assemble is incredibly heavy!!!!
Once its down, roll it out from under the car on the trolley jack
Refitting is reversal of above blah blah (god I sound like a haynes manual
)I'm pretty sure that's just about everything
Any problems let us know
Cheers,
Andy
Last edited by a moderator:
HI Andy,
I managed to get sub frame off, which was helped the fact I have no hicas.
Unfortunately the 2 bolts which hold the bracket just infront of the rear wheel where the subframe - have snapped off. I will have to drill them out and hopefully not damage the threads.
Other than that it was quite straight forward.
I have 2 lots of the brake line an plan to replace them all. My car is basically a rust bucket, fighting a losing battle. I plan to reshell it soon, but doing these brake lines will give a good few I think.
I managed to get sub frame off, which was helped the fact I have no hicas.
Unfortunately the 2 bolts which hold the bracket just infront of the rear wheel where the subframe - have snapped off. I will have to drill them out and hopefully not damage the threads.
Other than that it was quite straight forward.
I have 2 lots of the brake line an plan to replace them all. My car is basically a rust bucket, fighting a losing battle. I plan to reshell it soon, but doing these brake lines will give a good few I think.