now what

boomer

Well-Known Forum User
:cool: Latest news on Boomer’s ZX…
Brakes are fixed…:D thanks for MF for the diagnostic and Adrian for the used parts…
At last I have handbrakes now! Not that I use for them as the car isn’t running anymore:mad:

After a Britt week… 7 days of rain non-stop… the car is acting like a weirdo.

Run OK when cold on auto-starter
When the temp go up the bitch doesn’t take its rpm…
Still the idle is fine

As the engine work fine when cold, I think it’s not fuel related, more an air trouble… Can the AFM be the culprit? Or the TB sender?

Maybe the extreme humidity factor was only a coincidence, but I doubt it!

Your guess… Boomer
 
I would clean all the sensors contacts and make sure all connectors are on properly for a first step. If that doesn't cure it, I would go through the steps of checking the Air Flow Meter and the head temp sensor is operating properly.

For info on how to do the checks read this EFI BIBLE.

Good luck.
 
Okay you Z&ZX guru, here's the plot!

If I disconnect the water temp sensor on the bloc, the engine runs like a charm. On guy told me that it’s because it send a mayday to the ECU and then in return… the ECU sends a “it’s cold out there, run on starter” message to the EFI.
OK I can understand that, what I can’t is why then does the car drive well and keep a steady idle? Shouldn’t it run high rpm if it’s thinking it’s bellow -40° outside?????????????
I need to fix it fast…
 
That's what I've been told. I take the car on Friday to a MOT place to have it tested for pollution, if the values are way too rich it could be that it's runing on cold start permantly? No?:unsure:
 
Worse and worse, or maybe...

Now it's the battery that doesn't charge enough, so it caugh, then the wipers go on????????? and it dies! If you plug a booster everything goes well, then after a while caugh, wipers...

Could it be a faulty regulator? Could all this be related to the alternator???? The car is sold, so I must fix it ASAP or I will have to give the cash back:mad:
 
New alternator on the bitch and it's not better! Is there a way to reset the ECU? Is there a diagnostics plug?
Help :conf2:
 
The control box for the 280ZX injection is not as sophisticated as other models later in the series - no safety mode, no diagnostics. In fact in the UK versions, no main ROM!

The cold temperature starting depends on:
1. The ECU water temp sensor value which determines the firing rate for the injectors.
2. The thermotime switch which determines whether the seventh "cold start" injector should be firing.
3. The throttle by-pass or air regulator valve which allows extra air past the throttle body to compensate for the additional fuelling provided by the other two systems. Valve is open when cold and gradually shut down by a bimetallic strip heated electrically and a pad of warm / hot water on the underside (the reason for the little water hoses on the intake manifold).

A change in running between hot and cold will be accounted for by faults in one, or a combination, of these devices.

Air flow is determined by the the AFM - a fairly crude flap device which regularly plays up on the 280ZX and may cause rough running, poor transition from idle or just plain old failure. Don't be tempted to play with the shrouded adjustment (air by-pass) screw unless you fully understand what you are doing!

Re. alternator - have you checked that the new alternator is giving a suitable voltage to the battery. The ECU is voltage dependent and if it drops below 12V it will cause poor running and eventually failure...
 
Mr.F said:
2. The thermotime switch which determines whether the seventh "cold start" injector should be firing.

Hmmm! If I unplug the 7th injector, nothing's happening, still start fine... run like crapwith the sensor pluged and fine unpluged! Could it be the thermotime then?
 
Sometimes the cold start injectors become leaky - the only way to be sure no extra fuel is getting in via this route is to clamp the short hose supplying it. Sometimes just unplugging it doesn't stop it dribbling!
 
Boomer Did you solve this?

Boomer,
How did you eventually solve this one as I have exactly the same symptoms. I have checked the resistance of the water temperature sensor at various temps and it is fine. Replaced thermo time switch but same result. Connect everything to start then disconect water temp sensor and it runs but will not pull to drive. Plugs are very black as it is running too rich. Air Flow meter moves freely. Any help would be appreciated.

By the way this happened suddenly and the car is usually driven each day.

Many thanks
 
Easy fix... I sold the f....g car :devil:

Naaaah I changed the fuel pump... the old one was working but it didn't had enough pressure to keep the engine happy!

BTW : just saying that remind me that I still need to reward a lad on this Forum for sourcing some test parts for it and pay back for the drive he made to my peronnal Z guru Dave Jarman! Sorry it slipped my mind... Will do ASAP ;)
 
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