OK, I was commenting on a different thread, but I feel compelled to put it in a easier to find location as there seems to be much disinformation out there on this subject.
As for blocks to use with an overbore: the N42 block has better thickness in the cylinder walls and is a FULL siamesed block. Also, I have never heard any reports of the lack of coolant passages between cylinders being a problem in terms of cooling.
The best years of N42 being the ones made for the USA market in 75-76. From what I understand they had higher nickel content in the block. However, any of the N42's are good as they are all very strong blocks.
As for the F54, the cylinder walls are thinner for better cooling and coolant passages between the cylinders (hence the non-siamessed). You you can overbore the F54, but the F54 is really not the first choice as it is a non-siamesed block. I have even seen a rebuild book that states it is siamesed, but it has large passages between the cylinders, and hence is not really siamesed, and not all of the cylinders in the F54 even have any joining material between them. I would use an F54 on a turbo engine with stock bore or for high compression on a stock bore.
So, do not believe anyone who tells you the F54 is the choice block for a overbore or that the F54 is superior to the N42! They are just repeating what others have been told. People who have been to Japan will tell you that the engine builders in Japan have been using the N42 since the start, as they knew the properties of the N42 are way superior. Leave it to the Japanese to be way ahead!
Also, get the block sonic tested and balance all components!!! Do not skip this for a power build. For a stock build with stock bore, you can just rebuild like normal.
Also just to comment on my understanding of the L28ET limits (stock internals, but sitll I would get ungraded rod bolts! The rod bolts being the weakest link in the L-series engines).
From my understanding, the stock L28ET can do 350 BHP at the upper limit with no internal modifications (external only like stand-alone, injectors, ignition, etc.).
As for blocks to use with an overbore: the N42 block has better thickness in the cylinder walls and is a FULL siamesed block. Also, I have never heard any reports of the lack of coolant passages between cylinders being a problem in terms of cooling.
The best years of N42 being the ones made for the USA market in 75-76. From what I understand they had higher nickel content in the block. However, any of the N42's are good as they are all very strong blocks.
As for the F54, the cylinder walls are thinner for better cooling and coolant passages between the cylinders (hence the non-siamessed). You you can overbore the F54, but the F54 is really not the first choice as it is a non-siamesed block. I have even seen a rebuild book that states it is siamesed, but it has large passages between the cylinders, and hence is not really siamesed, and not all of the cylinders in the F54 even have any joining material between them. I would use an F54 on a turbo engine with stock bore or for high compression on a stock bore.
So, do not believe anyone who tells you the F54 is the choice block for a overbore or that the F54 is superior to the N42! They are just repeating what others have been told. People who have been to Japan will tell you that the engine builders in Japan have been using the N42 since the start, as they knew the properties of the N42 are way superior. Leave it to the Japanese to be way ahead!
Also, get the block sonic tested and balance all components!!! Do not skip this for a power build. For a stock build with stock bore, you can just rebuild like normal.
Also just to comment on my understanding of the L28ET limits (stock internals, but sitll I would get ungraded rod bolts! The rod bolts being the weakest link in the L-series engines).
From my understanding, the stock L28ET can do 350 BHP at the upper limit with no internal modifications (external only like stand-alone, injectors, ignition, etc.).