My 32 rolling road, what do I need?

Russ

Russ

Club Member
Hiya,

My brother has suggested we book a rolling road session between us for his Golf and my Z32 at Race Shack

http://www.raceshack.co.uk/

But being a rolling road virgin I'm not sure how to make the most of it.

I basically just want my car running RIGHT, I've not done any mods so nothing to set up with that. I've got a different exhaust and Apexi filters.

Do I need a programmable chip, or can they adjust what they need using my existing (stock) equipment?

Before I go I'm tempted to fit a boost controller and work it up a little to say 12-13psi, but I want to stay on 95 octane so not sure I can do that/there is any point?

Anyway any experience/thoughts would be appreciated,

Cheers
 
Russ, if this is really true:

'I basically just want my car running RIGHT' then you don't need any mods. Best to ensure the basics are ok first though, plugs, filters, oil type and level, water level etc. I know this sounds a bit basic but a rolling road environment is hard on the car and it can get quite hot. Also no point in finding out your air filter is filthy at that stage.

I've only had one rolling road experience but I was shut inside the place (exhaust connected to extractor fan). Forced air cooling was used too because of course the car is not moving.

Also make sure you have good fuel in, again basic stuff. In fact if you do all that it maybe ok anyway. I suspect however you want BHP figures, so as I say keep it standard to start with then you can use that as your baseline for future mods (if any).

Correct tyre pressures may have an effect too and transmission fluids.

Anyway my car ran a lot smoother after but your car has engine management etc so it may be ok now? Also it gave me piece of mind with mixture, ignition settings.

My experience of this is very limited, I'm sure other can expand on this.
 
Yeah my car is correctly serviced and tyre pressure is checked whenever I do my motorbike (basically every weekend).

My car is running right, it seems fine, but if there is a little more to get out of it then why not? Maybe make it fractionally more efficient, I'm tempted to up the boost a little seeing as it's almost like free hp, but again I want to stick to regular octane.

Cheers
 
Russ

There are a lot of things to consider before taking your car to a rolling road.

I have just spent a lot of money on tuning equipment, if you want your car chipping let me know...will sort you some good discount. I also have the latest Vagcom if you need the golf checking over for problems.

PM me and I will explain.

Raceshack have a good rep.
 
the most important thing is to make sure the car gets a good service beforehand, as the guys who rolling road it will thrash the daylights out of it!
 
why are you going to get your cars dyno'd? Do you want them to make adjustments or just a power run?
what model golf has your Brother got?
 
My bro is putt a 9a engine (I think thats right, 2ltr corrado) in his mk1 gti, err once we've finished building it :)

I'm just interested to know if I'm down on power much after 15 years! I wouldn't mind a little more as well if I can do it for like £400. I guessed for that I'd get a £275 of boost controller, £125 of rolling road.

My car has done about 60k with full Japanese Nissan servicing so hopefully it's fairly alright. Sometimes it feels like it could do with better ignition though, I think I'll get around to replacing all the dead plastic electrical connectors at some point see if that makes any difference.

Spoke to Raceshack today and they seem pretty busy so open to other suggestions around(ish) Taunton/junc 24 M5/Somerset...

Can anyone just answer my question of

"Do I need to buy anything for them to tune it properly, or do I just take the car?"

I'm guessing my chip is not programmable so I'd need something different if they're going to adjust the fuel mix at any point???

Cheers
 
Hi,
Shouldn't you be using 97 or 98 octane on a Jap import Z32 TT?
I use 97 in my NA all the time, so I would imagine you may get detination in a TT running on 95 supermarket fuel on a rolling road under load?!
The JDM cars would have originally been set up for the higher octane petrol available in Japan.
 
See that's what I thought as well, don't they have 100 octane there? So for the first month I had it I used whatever was highest. Then one day I visited a garage without anything special and used 95 octane and tbh I haven't noticed any adverse affects... I guess if I upped the boost then I'm going to have a problem.

Theres a Z32 that's making 450bhp in America on regular "pump gas", I think it's 93 RON there??
 
Russ, I answered your question fully!

Service it and leave it standard.

The tyre pressure bit was included to make sure soft tyres don't sap a bhp or two.
 
Your chip is programmble with the right equipment, if they have an eprom emulator they can remove your chip and run it on the road, adjust the fuel/ignition and save the file. Burn the file to the eprom and fit it back in the ECU....not for £125 though :) more like £1000 !!!

The best cars for remapping are turbo cars...new diesels give massive gains....golf 1.8T you can gain 50HP for under 400 quid, buy a larger turbo and intercooler and you can get 300hp...make some internal engine changes and fit a custom ecu, big turbo, IC and injectors and you can reach 450hp....those 1.8T engines are amazing......get your Bro to change his engine choice to a 1.8t 20V....his future tuning options will be endless.
 
Rob: I wasn't asking whether I should tune my car or not :p :)

twoforty: That's cool, I wasn't sure if my chip would be an EPROM or not :) Thought I might have to buy something that was programmable.

We've had the 1.8t vs 2ltr old school discussion many times, and for us the 1.8t was a complete waste of money :) Should see 220bhp from the engine we're building, which is too much for a front wheel drive car that weighs less than the air it displaces :) I guess the 1.8t would add a couple thousand to the project which would be much better spent on other areas. It'll only be a fast road car anyways.

Cheers
 
Russ said:
Theres a Z32 that's making 450bhp in America on regular "pump gas", I think it's 93 RON there??
Click to expand...

Point worth noting
The US method of measuring fuel is slightly differant from the UK and combines a number of other measuring techniques...which gives the incorrect view that comparative fuel is of lower Ron yield in America than good ole blighty

Quote from Wiki

In most countries (including all of Europe and Australia) the "headline" octane that would be shown on the pump is the RON, but in the United States, Canada and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, this means that the octane in the United States will be about 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 91-92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "regular", equivalent to 90-91 US (R+M)/2, and even deliver 98 (RON) or 100 (RON).
Click to expand...
 
Russ I just checked the database, the 300zx turbo

Power in KW/HP +33KW / 45PS
Power by rpm U/min
Torque in Nm +80 Nm


The programmer I have is an OptiCan master unit http://www.optican.net/

If you're interested in chipping your car let me know, I can do it for a good price.
 
Thats a yummy bit of kit Simon;)
Might just have to pop my Mk4 GTI Diesel down to you one of these days
 
Steve, good point I'd forgotten about that. So that would be roughly our 97 RON here, but then again he was making silly hp so I can probably still get away with 95 depending on "how" I make it.

twoforty: Those figures look great thanks, fair bit more torque :) According to optican I'd still need to solder a piggy back chip on though. I've seen lots of John Dixon manual chips for sale second hand for like £50 on 300zx.co.uk so maybe that's the way to go?

All this started off with my bro say "want to take your car to a rolling road" and then me thinking "well whilst I'm there I might as well make sure it's all running as expected" then "if I can get a bit more power..." lol and the car is still freaking slow compared to my bike
 
Russ, You've lost me in all this, these are quotes from you in order:

I basically just want my car running RIGHT, I've not done any mods so nothing to set up with that.

I've got a different exhaust and Apexi filters.

My car is running right, it seems fine, but if there is a little more to get out of it then why not?

"Do I need to buy anything for them to tune it properly, or do I just take the car?"

Rob: I wasn't asking whether I should tune my car or not

Hope you get what you are after, whatever that may be? :conf2:




 
i would not risk 95 on a rolling road russ, stick v-power in to be safe. do an ecu check first just to be safe, flush through the rad again just to be safe, make sure the rad cap fits correct. The std z32 rad has a plastic neck that wears out, i know mine popped my cap off spot on 301 bhp at interpro lol. is you want more power i have a manual superchipped ecu going spare, though not my choice of ecu tbh. try to pick a cold day if poss, we went in the summer, very hot day and not the best for a rolling road. its quite nearving watching your car be ranted on a rolling road, so take up smoking to chill yourself out lol.
 
try to pick a cold day if poss, we went in the summer, very hot day and not the best for a rolling road.
Click to expand...


A half decent rolling road operative will correct for any temperature/air pressure changes (above or below certain values) so the temperature shouldnt make significant differance...:conf2: its called a "correction factor"

There are a number of differant "correction factor" models used by differant dyno set ups

SAE-J1349
DIN 70020
EEC 80/1269
ISO 1585

All in all they do the same thing....correct for temperature, pressure and humidity

If your "dyno" operative doesnt do this, tell him to get his old job back at Halfords
 
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Steve's right, most have a weather station connected to the Dyno controller. It shouldn't need more than a few seconds to do a power run......3rd gear is actually the best gear for power runs not 4th......the car should be loaded at around 1500rpm......the operator presses a button then accelerates the car until the power curve on the screen starts to tail off....presses the button again and its done. As you can live tune your car, well not without some expensive kit there should be no need to scream the boll*cks off it for any length of time.
 
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