a 'Nut and Bolt' restoration. A how to guide.

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DonMuscles

Well-Known Forum User
So I just found out that in 1983 my car was a Concours Show Winner!!!

:)

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442676468.449557.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1442676478.319906.jpg

The person that butchered this car...... I would like to shoot......
 

DonMuscles

Well-Known Forum User
Can anybody please tell me if this piece on the crossmember is a factory piece?

Because it looks home-made but also looks to have always been on there...

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This is where is goes...

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Thankyou in advance. :)
 

DonMuscles

Well-Known Forum User
Okay...

I just answered my own question....

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442680406.181341.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1442680416.238043.jpg

To me it seems ridiculous to add all that extra weight! (It is heavy!)!

Anyone got these on their cars or removed them?

Basically.... Shall I refit it, or bin it?

Seeming as the whole rear end is being polybushed and the rear diff mount is not a solid one, do not imagine there to be any clunking, hence no need for this japanese elephant to be hanging off the bottom of my diff....
 

morbias

Well-Known Forum User
I would put it back on - it's there for a good reason. Contrary to (what might be) popular belief, the stiffer your setup is the more important it is to have a damper as a stiffer setup has higher harmonic frequencies.

They used to fit these to Ford Transit bulkheads in the assembly plant I worked at, the whole thing would vibrate like a mofo otherwise.
 

DonMuscles

Well-Known Forum User
Good pro for having it on there...

Does seem like it was made as an after thought in the Datsun product design lab...

I will probably clean it up and paint it and decide when I put the car back together.....
 

DonMuscles

Well-Known Forum User
Love the fact you used to work in a ford transit assembly plant!!

Does a job come any more British than that?!!?!!


Looool!

Love it!
 

DonMuscles

Well-Known Forum User
Just come in from outside..

Too dark to work now.

Anyway..

The parts from Mike Feeney should be coming next week so I can finish putting the rear end back together....

I stripped off the 2 remaining rear brake lines today and measured them up to get them made into braided ones... (Need to call up on Monday to order them).


Going off to the MRS today as when I did her service for her at the weekend, I noticed she had a clean leak from her rear diff seal so going to get that sorted on Monday hopefully.....
Well should hope to get the parts on Monday...
Tried to call around today and euro do not do them and seem to think they are dealer only and by the time I got to call the dealerships they all go home at 13:00 on a Saturday and obviously not open tomorrow...


Cleaned up the rear crossmember, and the moustache bar this evening ready for paint and half cleaned the rear arb.... So got another day of cleaning arms .etc. next week and then painting and fitting the new bushes .etc...

Spoke to my bodyshop guy today and he is ready for the car so need to get my ass into gear no.5!


Can not wait until the car rolls/drives out of the bodyshop next year!!!!!!


:D
 

DonMuscles

Well-Known Forum User
Cars back then are soo simple to cars we have now....

Soooo much better is an older car...

The newest car I think I will ever own is from the 90's period...
Even my MR2 and my GT4 are quite a lot more electrical than what needs to be...
The GT4 more than the MR2 but I guess that is what makes the MR2 a better car.....
The difference is noticeable when driving...

I know my MR2 I slammed on rock hard coilovers and have the chassis braced up at both ends, but it still has the classic feel of a car that you are actually at one with... (Until it has a hissy fit and kicks out unexpectadly) but even that makes it more characteristic of an older car and that of which makes it an exciting drive....

There should be a company producing just simple, fast sports cars with the bare basics and no driver aids.... A car like that would surely sell well and has such always been a dream of mine to start a company producing one day given enough money...

A light weight box sectioned chassis, an enormous powerplant (probably turbo'ed - probably borrowing a few proven engines such as a RB- albeit steering away from simply made), could go V8 like an LS motor.., RWD OBVIOUSLY, maybe 4wd with a split to transfer more to the rear but then you are adding more weight and reducing your hp output through transfer, most probably mid engined.... Building the car around the engine, a classicly styled body, not like the ginormous heaps of junk they produce nowadays... (Has anyone actually noticed how big cars nowadays actually are?!!!) My MR2 has just the right amount of cosiness I have experienced in any car, like a snug cockpit... :), power steering to make easy parking/city driving (no pussy cr*p though), heating, elec windows, ONLY MANUAL! Probably a 6 speed box! 2 seats.
And LOW!

Pretty much it!


But hey....

Those are just dreams and that was just a rant...
 

mrM

Club Member
Are you going to get these bits blasted then powder coated? I hope so as all you have done is polish the rust so it will be a few months before the rust is back if the remaining rust isn't sorted.

If you don't get rid and treat the rust your wasting your time and money, the same goes with the other parts.

this is fact don,and although others have already stated blasting/powdercoating is the way to go, unfortuantly you have not listened yet...........if you really are against that route,then rust killer followed by zinc 182 followed by hammerite is the next best thing but will still never be as good,taking your old rusty parts to the shotblaster then straight to the powdercoater is far easier and the finish will last longer and be better and match the standard of the bodywork finish you hope to acheive:)
 

Ped

Club Member
this is fact don,and although others have already stated blasting/powdercoating is the way to go, unfortuantly you have not listened yet...........if you really are against that route,then rust killer followed by zinc 182 followed by hammerite is the next best thing but will still never be as good,taking your old rusty parts to the shotblaster then straight to the powdercoater is far easier and the finish will last longer and be better and match the standard of the bodywork finish you hope to acheive:)

Hey Don, if your car body is going to be away for a good few months, you don't need to rush are rebuilding the running gear. You should consider collecting all the bits you have stripped and, as suggested, get them shot blasted and powder coated in one batch.

It will look the nuts, and last.
 
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DonMuscles

Well-Known Forum User
I take all on board...

Just wanted to get everything free and not have to chop bolts, use the sledge hammer on seized parts .etc... after the body had been restored. Etc...
 
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