a 'Nut and Bolt' restoration. A how to guide.

[morbias]

I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering this, but the budget doesn't seem to be much of an issue for you so why didn't you just buy one in better condition to start with, and without the bodykit if you were going to return it to standard anyway?

I know you say it's not that bad, but it's really not that good if we're being honest, is it!

I have to say I agree with what Albrecht is saying, I've been biting my tongue a bit because often it comes across as some sort of attack when it's not that at all.

With that in mind (that this is not just negative criticism), there really are things that should be investigated further before deciding everything's rosy!

The holes along the edge of the roof is a clear indicator that there's been water inside the roof frame, which means it's more than likely also run down towards the back of the car - the common rust areas are the corners next to the hatch and I'd be surprised if the boot floor extensions behind the quarter panels aren't also rotten. The same applies to the decklid hinge cavities. The roof frame also feeds into the A-pillars and windscreen surround so you might find you need to do reconstruction work to that too once the screen is out.

And have you cut into the sills yet? Because mine looked pretty good, with seemingly only the ends needing replacing: http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j45/morbias/IMG00056-20100925-1227_zpsbboojkky.jpg

Once the sill was removed I ended up having to replace the lower half of the inner sill too (the whole length) even though it looked fine from inside the car: http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j45/morbias/IMAG0492_zps5e286361.jpg

I am not trying to knock your efforts or whatever, and enthusiasm is definitely a good thing - but I have to say that some of your statements do seem to be at odds with reality (going purely from the pictures you've posted)!

I don't doubt that you've seen worse, however I'm sure you must know that a lot of the damage lies hidden until you uncover it, and going by the pictures of the body there are surely going to be some things you haven't anticipated.

Anyway, I'm interested to see how this develops and what you do with the car so keep plugging on with it.

[EDIT] Also I'd just like to say I've been in the exact same place you are now, and I made a lot of stupid mistakes. If I'd listened to more of the advice I was given, things would have turned out easier and better because the people giving the advice have been in that same place before either of us

 

[DonMuscles]

You are absolutely correct with what you say regarding the water running towards the back on the car and the rear hatch in particular as that does need some reconstruction towards the bottom edges on both sides.

And I have cut the metal away from the outer sills and it for the most part seems clean on the inner sill.

Also with regards, to the front windscreen, the frame is rust free.

The bottom of the doors do need attention however.


I would be more than welcome to have you round for a look with complimentary tea and coffee if you would like!

Infact anbody is welcome for a chat, and a look.

Just let me know.

Not going to turn away and good advice or second opinions.

 

[DonMuscles]

Oh and the reason, I did not buy a good one to start off with, is anybody can buy a car that looks good.

Does not mean it has been built good though!

I like to do it myself so I know that it is infact a "GOOD" car which has had everything done to it that says it has had done!

Not just what someone might tell you it has had done.


Also it is a nice low mileage unmolested example (with exception of the body kit).

Also, HAVE YOU SEEN THE PRICES OF A VERY HIGH STANDARD ONE??!!

Would rather have 5x Skyline R32 GTR's!!!


Looooooool.


For this car it is just about looks and classic style, I always wanted one.

For the most part 90's jap performance is where my heart is!

 

[Albrecht]

Not backwards... In a logistical order.

But illogical...

And as mentioned before, all arms are being fully stripped from the car and repainted before being set with new bushes.

And then - presumably - you are going to put them back on the car again so that it can be wheeled around/driven?/transported?

And yes, the car is being taken back to bare metal.

Just the outside? Or - literally - the whole unibody, outside and in? I get the impression that "bare metal" is - at this point - some kind of paint shop catchphrase with no distinct meaning. Your rust problem is more inside the bodyshell, not the bits under the paintjob.

No matter what you say or think, I have already covered it.

That statement alone proves that you are inhabiting your own reality with regard to this project, and you haven't got the faintest inkling of what I'm talking about. Let's see how that pans out for you, shall we?

It is not going to be a half job on this car whatever you might think, and if you feel you can do it better yourself, then buy one and show me.

I've done it several times, actually. So have several other people who are commenting on your thread. For us it's a bit like Car Crash TV.

Bodywork is the least of my worries.

Apparently, but worryingly so. As far as I can see, 'Part Number One' is far worse than you appear to understand. I think bodywork (actually, the complete unibody of the car) ought to be your main concern.

And who is to tell you that I have not taken any panels off??

The photo's I have uploaded are just parts of what I have done.

So what are the air tubes/upper chassis reinforcements like then? How about the cowl drains and the bulkhead/cowl floor joint? How about the inside floors, under the sound-deadening? My hunch is that you haven't even seen them yet.

Sorry but I do not have all day to spend uploading and updating you on every single detail of what gets done to the car!!!

I'm sure that's the case, but I'm seeing plenty of other stream-of-consciousness type posts and photos here. It leads me to believe that you would benefit from a guiding hand and some sound advice with regard to your project. The example of the clutch master cylinder and the long flexi tube with banjo fittings (guess why Nissan used a hard line for 75% of the run between the CMC and CSC?) says it all really. You're fiddling with instant-gratification shiny stuff while Rome burns...

I'm fairly sure that others reading your thread share my feelings - a few have even tried to say the same - but it's not really getting through. It's all very well getting general encouragement, but you clearly need sound advice and guidance too. Have you got anyone around you that you would listen to in that regard?

 

[DonMuscles]

Bought a new boot before I fit the clutch system in.


I am swaying towards getting all of the bodywork done first, and painted for the most part (unibody) insidd and out, before fitting arms and bushes back on.

Here are photo's of the inner wings taken this morning for you all to look at, comment as you may but they are pretty solid with some rust issues near the lower floor pan on both sides...

 

[DonMuscles]

 

[DonMuscles]

Rear passenger floor.

Nice and solid.

 

[Al Douglas]

Absolutely fascinating thread. Is this the new restoration way? Replace / repair all the shiny noisy bits and then do the shell? Certainly generating a lot of interest. If you have the funds and the time I guess you can do it any way around that you like.
Good luck Antonio but please, as has been said before, listen to these guys. They really do know what they are talking about and yes, they do now have the beautiful, shiny, immaculate genuine article, I've seen some of them! Please heed at least some of the advice you ask for.
That aside, as long as you are enjoying it crack on son. Brilliant.

 

[DonMuscles]

Thanks very much.

 

[DonMuscles]

Thankyou very much.

Decided to do the engine bay first.


Then to the bodyshop for structural welding .etc...

Then going to do all arms/bushes .etc as advised.


Does seem like a more sensible option with this car the more I think about it...

Then the bodywork/panels.

Then the paintjob.

 

[DonMuscles]

Time for gym now

 

[DonMuscles]

Must say though, I do HATE that ****** glued on rubber onto the floor panels that is underneath the soundproofing!! Such a PITA to get off!!

 

[status]

Have you considered bringing a pair of rust free doors over from the states,you will find they have anti crash bars built in,good thing or bad , not had a crash so can't comment

 

[DonMuscles]

Not considdered that...

Probably get dented on the way here though!!!

 

[DonMuscles]

Tried 3x doors for my mr2 before!!

All dropped!!!!!

And creased on different edges!!!!!


Not worth the hassle in my opinion, (from previous experience).

Would be nice to think about though...

 

[datsfun]

I will echo what the more learned and experienced members have already pointed out...one should tackle the body first always. What if when you strip the shell to a bare metal and get it sand blasted/acid dipped, the fabricator inspects and says it's too far gone or the cost of repair is far in excess of its economic worth?

Not backwards... In a logistical order.


Thanks for the concern.

.

Hmm, to me it's like you are solving an Integration problem, then moving to solve a Diffrentetiaon problem and finally learning Algebra....

Full marks for effort though

 

[DonMuscles]

Lmfao at your mathematics references!


Hahaha!!!

 

[status]

They are worth it Mr muscle,trust me on that one as when you re skin a door no matter how well it's done it is never goner be as good as a good door if you know wot I mean

 

[status]

Wots the interior like

 

[DonMuscles]

Believe me whenI say the interior is in mint condition.


Absolutely immaculate!



The car has only done 62k miles.

The interior looks like a car that has done less than 10k miles.