SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
What about a V8 in a 280ZX 2+2 ? Possible easily ? Costs (err Andy) ?
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280zxv
- Thread starter SeanDezart
- Start date
Mr.F
Inactive
Can be done, but rare over here. Kit parts available via MJP to ease the installation. Don't use the early steering box - it gets in the way of headers - convert to late model power rack and pinion or non-UK manual rack and pinion. Cost a few hundred using secondhand parts.
Kit parts available include mount kit (intended use 350ci Chevy / 700R-4 auto box), speedo cable adapter, throttle cable, kickdown cable, electric fuel pump and blanking plate, driveshaft and temperature sender adapter. Cost about £900. Budget also for radiator, headers, exhaust system. Engine and trans obviously - cost between £500 for reconditionable s/hand to £20K for state of the art new...with Chevy stuff it is only a matter of how fast you can afford to go.
Trailing arm rear suspension might tramp a bit and, as usual, longevity of diff and axle shafts may be an issue. Depends what you want to do...
Kit parts available include mount kit (intended use 350ci Chevy / 700R-4 auto box), speedo cable adapter, throttle cable, kickdown cable, electric fuel pump and blanking plate, driveshaft and temperature sender adapter. Cost about £900. Budget also for radiator, headers, exhaust system. Engine and trans obviously - cost between £500 for reconditionable s/hand to £20K for state of the art new...with Chevy stuff it is only a matter of how fast you can afford to go.
Trailing arm rear suspension might tramp a bit and, as usual, longevity of diff and axle shafts may be an issue. Depends what you want to do...
datsun dave
Club Member
Mr F is there anything about Zeds that you dont know !!!!!!! or sell
also can you give me the Lottery Numbers for Saturday PLEASE
also can you give me the Lottery Numbers for Saturday PLEASE
zeeman1972
Well-Known Forum User
To add to what MrF has said above, you may also want to budget for whatever weight saving ali parts you can afford if you plump with the first/second gen cast-iron V8. Things like head’s water pump, inlet manifolds, gear reduction starter motors, etc will all help to restore stock weight distribution. Or of course you could just meddle with the suspension to improve things a bit on the cheap.
If you go for a manual rather than an auto gearbox I’d also budget for a lot of tyre wear unless you can get a good lsd, Quaife have some in stock now
The stock cast-iron engine route is quick, cheap and easy to do, the later gen engines like mine are far more involved (and expensive) but in my opinion will give a more driveable car with good fuel economy and far more power.
Sean, you mentioned this idea a couple of times on this forum now, do it! I'm sure it'll put a smile on your face even with a 235Hp 350 ci 70's smog motor that'll cost you about £300.
If you were serious about looking into it I'm sure I could find a complete small block that you could have for that sort of ££ from my connections
Steve
If you go for a manual rather than an auto gearbox I’d also budget for a lot of tyre wear unless you can get a good lsd, Quaife have some in stock now
The stock cast-iron engine route is quick, cheap and easy to do, the later gen engines like mine are far more involved (and expensive) but in my opinion will give a more driveable car with good fuel economy and far more power.
Sean, you mentioned this idea a couple of times on this forum now, do it! I'm sure it'll put a smile on your face even with a 235Hp 350 ci 70's smog motor that'll cost you about £300.
If you were serious about looking into it I'm sure I could find a complete small block that you could have for that sort of ££ from my connections
Steve
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
I'm torn between a 280ET engine and a SBC ! Different power I know but the only engine swaps I would contemplate.
It has to be a manual V8 no ? And my idea is to use either a late 280ZX 2+2 or errrmm, my wifes' non power assisted 280ZX 2 seater.
I've seen and will see too many V8 Zs so I'll go down another avenue !
It's all early stages yet but the seed is in the ground
On a V8 ZX 2+2, what might one expect as fuel consumption from the options you have listed :
smog version manaul
same but auto
more modern engine auto
same but manual
Assume that I would put in a limmie !
I guess it'll have to be a 2+2 as there are 3 of us !
Then of course, there's always the Z32 V8 conversion - looks good too !
It has to be a manual V8 no ? And my idea is to use either a late 280ZX 2+2 or errrmm, my wifes' non power assisted 280ZX 2 seater.
I've seen and will see too many V8 Zs so I'll go down another avenue !
It's all early stages yet but the seed is in the ground
On a V8 ZX 2+2, what might one expect as fuel consumption from the options you have listed :
smog version manaul
same but auto
more modern engine auto
same but manual
Assume that I would put in a limmie !
I guess it'll have to be a 2+2 as there are 3 of us !
Then of course, there's always the Z32 V8 conversion - looks good too !
zeeman1972
Well-Known Forum User
SeanDezart said:
Depends what you want to do with it really, and your preferences, the 700R-4 box MrF mentions above fits very well and is a superb auto, I had one in an 89 GTA TransAm a few years ago. However, if you like shifting cogs a T5 or T56 are both competent too! A 4 speed should be avioded at all costs IMHO.
SeanDezart said:
There's no such thing as too many V8Z's
SeanDezart said:
SeanDezart said:
Ok I'll try and answer this but it is very subjective, gearbox, diff ratio, tyre size but most importantly the nut behind the wheel's requirement for the position of the throttle, will have massive effect.
Smog manual (235HP) (assume T5, not Driven Like A Nut (DLAN)) around 24-25 mpg (about the best my old 280ZX 2+2 achieved)
Smog auto (assume modern box not s speed TH350 or 2 speed powerglide again not DLAN) 21-22 mpg
I'd say that both of the above will achieve low teens if driven like a nut.
Modern manual (350HP)(assume T56 and not DLAN) 28-30 mpg
Modern Auto (assume modern box and not DLAN) 27-29 mpg
Of course there are a myriad of other possibilities in-between the two (four) above, each with different economy/power figures.
The cost of the smog motor option could be under £1k and a week’s work installed and the later modern engine will be way over £4K and many months work. £3k buys a lot of fuel or tuning parts!
Get planting those seeds then!
Steve
PS them corners await
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
350ci Chevy smog version / 700R-4 auto box (4 speed ?) / modern 5sp manual or modern manual (350HP assume T56 would seem to be the choices - aint easy !
1k for the first option (motor and box) ?
4k for the second option (motor and box) ?
What about driveshafts and differentials ? Replace, I assume, with what and £££?
This isn't going to happen overnight but I'd like to do a 280ZX 2+2 V8 with some form of body kit. It might become a 2 seater project instead !
Mr F, any ideas on 2+2 body kits ? Not too much on the side skirts and whale tails though please !
Steve, more cubic inches is impressive in size but won't get you in - smaller but faster, goes in and out, in and out, in and out...........;-)
1k for the first option (motor and box) ?
4k for the second option (motor and box) ?
What about driveshafts and differentials ? Replace, I assume, with what and £££?
This isn't going to happen overnight but I'd like to do a 280ZX 2+2 V8 with some form of body kit. It might become a 2 seater project instead !
Mr F, any ideas on 2+2 body kits ? Not too much on the side skirts and whale tails though please
!Steve, more cubic inches is impressive in size but won't get you in - smaller but faster, goes in and out, in and out, in and out...........;-)
zeeman1972
Well-Known Forum User
The first should give you a car capable of sub 7 secs 0-60 and a mid 14's the second well....... we'll just have to see......SeanDezart said:
I would consider those installed and driving costs not just partsSeanDezart said:
Well you already said you wanted a LSD of sorts so I think that would do for the diff, R200 would be preferable though for harder driving. Again unless you wanted to go mad with sticky tyres then why replace the driveshafts? Because i may go mad I'm replacing mine with CV shafts but then ???SeanDezart said:
Indeed!!!!SeanDezart said:
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
So, if I go for an automatic, I don't need an LSD ? Under 7 secs with an auto box ?
What about the propshaft - easy to mate the manual and auto boxes to the standard item ?
I guess brakes and suspension will need improving too - just how hard can one push the standard all round 280 disc brakes ?
?What about the propshaft - easy to mate the manual and auto boxes to the standard item ?
I guess brakes and suspension will need improving too - just how hard can one push the standard all round 280 disc brakes ?
zeeman1972
Well-Known Forum User
SeanDezart said:So, if I go for an automatic, I don't need an LSD ? Under 7 secs with an auto box
Why would you not need a LSD on an auto then?
Why would you think the auto would be slower? Do you think you can shift faster than an auto? especially a modern one?
SeanDezart said:
I wouldn't use the original myself unless I liked the look of a propshaft liquorice twist. Just have an original chevy item cut down to the correct size and rebalanced and purchase a chevy U joint adapter to a standard nissan diff (JTR in the states do them for a few dollars)
SeanDezart said:
The suspension might need some attention with a standard iron block V8 being approx 100lbs heavier at the front (40 at the rear), however, a little investment in ali tuning parts can see the weight go down and the power come up!
Brakes, good question, I never had any problem with them when I had four people in my old 280ZX which has got to be more than the 140 lbs of gained weight from a stock iron block conversion?????
Mr.F
Inactive
With Chevrolet and USA tuning parts, every possible alternative scenario you can think of will be a reality. You just have to pin down exactly what you want the car to do - boulevard cruise and next to no rpm, drag strip missile, hard as nails track star? Build according to desire and budget - no constraints.
Plan the bhp relative to overall weight, decide on gearbox and list the ratios, choose a rear end ratio to suit tyre size and desired overall gearing, apply body parts of personal persuasion - you won't be sorry! Plan lots, build once.
Plan the bhp relative to overall weight, decide on gearbox and list the ratios, choose a rear end ratio to suit tyre size and desired overall gearing, apply body parts of personal persuasion - you won't be sorry! Plan lots, build once.
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
Plan lots, build once - very good advice and I'll be abck after supper !
zeeman1972
Well-Known Forum User
Bugger, just bought one, bet you are cheaper than RT tooMr.F said:
Oh well, teach me not to ask.
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
Mike,
How much are the quaifes then ?
zeeman, maybe you can do me a smog auto (700R-4 box) ?
I must be mad !
Just gotta find the right shell now !
Anyone fancy putting all this togther for me in the UK ?
How much are the quaifes then ?
zeeman, maybe you can do me a smog auto (700R-4 box) ?
I must be mad !
Just gotta find the right shell now !
Anyone fancy putting all this togther for me in the UK ?
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
Noted - thankyou ! In stock now ?
Sean,
If you haven't already you need to spend some time on www.hybridz.org. There is a lot of information on that site on your questions. It may also be possible to track down an R200 LSD on Ebay. They are getting pretty rare. Not sure how common the Z31 is in your area but I'd be looking for 87-89 turbo models. The US versions came with that differential - not sure about the european.
V8 - I'd seriously consider the Chevy LT1. It's computer controlled, has aluminum heads for lighter weight and can be obtained used fairly reasonably - plus a couple guys have done that conversion over at hybridz. I went the LS1 route to get an all aluminum engine but that can get expensive and parts aren't yet as plentiful. Another alternative would be the GM 5.3 iron block Gen III motor with LS1 intake. More plentiful and cheaper.
The T56 is a heavy transmission. I went that route because it was designed to run with the LS1 but a good T5 would probably do you fine if using other engines. The suggestions for an automatic are good ones. Any of the FI Gen II or II GM engines can give you up to mid 20's on your fuel economy and still pass emissions with any of the transmissions as long as they have an overdrive.
If you haven't already you need to spend some time on www.hybridz.org. There is a lot of information on that site on your questions. It may also be possible to track down an R200 LSD on Ebay. They are getting pretty rare. Not sure how common the Z31 is in your area but I'd be looking for 87-89 turbo models. The US versions came with that differential - not sure about the european.
V8 - I'd seriously consider the Chevy LT1. It's computer controlled, has aluminum heads for lighter weight and can be obtained used fairly reasonably - plus a couple guys have done that conversion over at hybridz. I went the LS1 route to get an all aluminum engine but that can get expensive and parts aren't yet as plentiful. Another alternative would be the GM 5.3 iron block Gen III motor with LS1 intake. More plentiful and cheaper.
The T56 is a heavy transmission. I went that route because it was designed to run with the LS1 but a good T5 would probably do you fine if using other engines. The suggestions for an automatic are good ones. Any of the FI Gen II or II GM engines can give you up to mid 20's on your fuel economy and still pass emissions with any of the transmissions as long as they have an overdrive.
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
Thanks for the advice.
The project is on hold - too many projects and my donor shell has gone to a good home !
Might be tempted though to do the same though in a Z31 shell............?
The project is on hold - too many projects and my donor shell has gone to a good home !
Might be tempted though to do the same though in a Z31 shell............?