Triple Weber DCOE 40 Emulsion tube quest.

[ZeCherman]

If you don't have a carb synchronizer you should get one and set all 3 carbs the same flow at idle. Your F16 emulsion tubes are perfect for your cylinder displacement. Your idle jet may be lean and a 55F9 would be better. Idle mix screws shouldn't need to go out more than 2 turns. if you have to adjust needles richer, then that means your idle jets are too lean and you're trying to compensate. 145 Mains might be rich and air correctors pretty close. A wide ban O2 sensor would help tremendously and save you reading the spark plugs so often. For proper jetting you should also know what the choke size is. Webers mean no vacuum advance so your initial timing should be at 16* to 18* plus nearly 35* total advance above 3,000 rpm for clean running.

I have the syncro but I cant get the engine ti run long enough to get a proper reading before the rpm starts to drop. Choke size is 36. O2 sensor was one of the next question I would have after getting the engine at least to warm up but since you already answered that one I guess buying one wont do any harm lol. I watched some videos on the base setup so I will try that today and see how it goes. Hopefully no coughing carbs today

 

[Texasroadrunner]

I ran across an excellent primer on Weber set up and tuning. The author is a Porsche down draft Weber rebuilder and tuner but DCOE's will be set up the same. See this excellent source in his part 2 section. The other sections are great too.
https://www.performanceoriented.com/performance-tuning-part-2
I found this very helpful in all of my Weber tuning adventures. I've read it several times and learned new things each time. You can even contact him on his website, and he is very helpful. Good luck. You will get it running right soon.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

Imo, if it will start but won't keep running then it's either being starved of fuel (pump/lines) or it's flooding (float needle valve/float level). If it's being starved test it with 'easy start' when it falters. If it's flooding block the fuel supply and see if it picks up.

 

[ZeCherman]

Soo, 2.5 turns out and it runs!! Yeey! All carbs read around 5 kg/h on the syncrometer. And the car runs great, no coughing, nothing… Idle around 1000 rpm. Any other sort of fine tuning I can do on a rolling road or the road itself probably? That will have to wait until it passes the MOT though. Until than maybe fiddling with the O2 wideband when it arrives because I think I am running slightly rich now.
Honestly if I didnt have ears I‘d have a smile around my head now

 

[jonbills]

A colourtune is a cheap alternative to the WB o2.

 

[Ian Patmore]

Ive got 45s Webers 152 on a 2.6 Z

Hopefully the engine runs fine on 45's, maybe too large a carb unless the engine has sporting type engine mods. Maybe running smaller chokes.

The Hamill book in theory pointed to 45's with a 3.2l on my set-up, just. Off the top of head there is a volume per cylinder to carb throat and rpm relationship.

 

[ZeCherman]

Hopefully the engine runs fine on 45's, maybe too large a carb unless the engine has sporting type engine mods. Maybe running smaller chokes.

The Hamill book in theory pointed to 45's with a 3.2l on my set-up, just. Off the top of head there is a volume per cylinder to carb throat and rpm relationship.

Im running 36 chokes which might be a bit too big but it wont stay 2.6 for long