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engine clattering - advise needed
- Thread starter istoo
- Start date
UPDATE
Made the 960 mile round trip to drop the engine off with Kevin Irons at samuri last week.
I have had a lot of disucssions with a lot of people on what is the best route, so thanks to everyone for their wisdom.
In the time since the engine went to now, my business which was crippled from C19 is now flat out again so that cemented my decision.
Its getting a full rebuild for a starter, then I might have got a bit silly in the, if you can do this can you also do... but will save that for the next post.
Kevin have been fantastic to speak to, great to meet him and have a poke round not one but two samuris.
Turn around about 10-12 weeks, assuming delivery trucks can go anywhere... however its over winter which is a time we cant move anyway.
Now considering what else, very easy to spiral out of control with this...
Made the 960 mile round trip to drop the engine off with Kevin Irons at samuri last week.
I have had a lot of disucssions with a lot of people on what is the best route, so thanks to everyone for their wisdom.
In the time since the engine went to now, my business which was crippled from C19 is now flat out again so that cemented my decision.
Its getting a full rebuild for a starter, then I might have got a bit silly in the, if you can do this can you also do... but will save that for the next post.
Kevin have been fantastic to speak to, great to meet him and have a poke round not one but two samuris.
Turn around about 10-12 weeks, assuming delivery trucks can go anywhere... however its over winter which is a time we cant move anyway.
Now considering what else, very easy to spiral out of control with this...
overdue update!
After strip down the bearing shells were gone/very thin, so that was one of my route causes, was also rad weld in there at somepoint, before me, and had gummed up a lot.
Concluded would go for a Samauri style build after lots of discussion back and forth on use / drivign style decided to work ont he existing engine and go for a samuri ish build. clean it right back and rebuild.
So its now a 2.8 stroked and bored
10:1 compression
P30 Crank L28
87mm flattop pistons with valve cut outs
Piper 272 cam
L28 rods
E33 head
42mm inlets and 35mm exhausts
Ported and gas flowed head ported to match 2in SUs, opted to go for the biugger SUs on Kevins advise and to match the new engines breathing requirement.
After engine also chose to
uprated clutch
uprate brakes
change out original hitachis for 2in SUs via S2ads (not sure your forum name! ) whcih cam from a 4.2 Jag XJ.
I had the car picked up in April after a late winter here again and loads of salt on the roads had it trailered back to NE Scotland.
Initially, it sounds bloody awesome.
Kev asked me to put 1000 milkes on it keep it below 4000rpm which was done last month, its been runnign poor which we put down to the carbs being not right for the car. Was very lumpy onm idle and to start and would cough and spluter but had notably more pull. In prepration for the run in tune up I worked out it ran BBC needles which were in place so after lots of reading on forum chats bought some lighter springs (4oz rather than the 12oz that were in it) which is wha the 2.8 Jags ran. bought some SM, KL and ... ive forgetten but they were what the 2.8 Jag ran, will update thinki its BAU.
So booked into Ricky Gauld for tuning (78 now) the last good carb tuner remotely near me. on the 20th July 22. Ricky got the idle running a lot better, first run pulled 180 BHP @ 5600rpm and 162lbs ft. Did splutter rev needles dived up and down about 4000rpm, notable on the charts. It was leaning out at the top end. Verified the needles in it were rich so Rickys theory it needed bigger needles against me thinking it needed smaller we opted for a second run and check the fuel pump. Put fuel presure guage in after the fuel regulator, my job was to watch thge guage as it went throigh the pull.. at about 3500rpm I am thinking, i hope the engine doesnt explode... but very visible the fuiel pressure was solid at 3psi until it got on cam then fell to almost 0 at 7000rpm. That aside managed 185bhp @ 5600rpm and 178lbs/ft. We tried it on the road to see how it behaved. idle and low revs much better. but still spluttering when you get to 3-4 rpm. Ricky felt it was elecxtrical but also both certain the pump needs changed out. Whcih may also be the problem.
bought a red facet pump which both ricky and kev recommended and a malpassi filter king regulator with a pressure gauge.
Qs:
1. BAE needles in it now which Ricky as the other needles i had were all fixed type, and its a flaoting type for the SUs i have. I dont know otherwise but any advise here would be welcome. So if anyone knows what needles i can put in or how to modify to put fixed in a flaoting, im all ears.
2. Any suggestions as to what the stutter might be? Will test leads, plugs all looked good and are brand new.
Opened it up a bit more this last week, stutter aside its notably quicker, loads more torque and really goes. interestingly if i peg down 2 gears and catch it quickly into the 5-6k powerband it does go but on long WOT pulls can feel it leaning out.
Next up is suspension, but thats another thread. Head is at Konis (Toyikos seem non available) + Eibach, i cant face cutting things out of the car.
Pics to follow
After strip down the bearing shells were gone/very thin, so that was one of my route causes, was also rad weld in there at somepoint, before me, and had gummed up a lot.
Concluded would go for a Samauri style build after lots of discussion back and forth on use / drivign style decided to work ont he existing engine and go for a samuri ish build. clean it right back and rebuild.
So its now a 2.8 stroked and bored
10:1 compression
P30 Crank L28
87mm flattop pistons with valve cut outs
Piper 272 cam
L28 rods
E33 head
42mm inlets and 35mm exhausts
Ported and gas flowed head ported to match 2in SUs, opted to go for the biugger SUs on Kevins advise and to match the new engines breathing requirement.
After engine also chose to
uprated clutch
uprate brakes
change out original hitachis for 2in SUs via S2ads (not sure your forum name! ) whcih cam from a 4.2 Jag XJ.
I had the car picked up in April after a late winter here again and loads of salt on the roads had it trailered back to NE Scotland.
Initially, it sounds bloody awesome.
Kev asked me to put 1000 milkes on it keep it below 4000rpm which was done last month, its been runnign poor which we put down to the carbs being not right for the car. Was very lumpy onm idle and to start and would cough and spluter but had notably more pull. In prepration for the run in tune up I worked out it ran BBC needles which were in place so after lots of reading on forum chats bought some lighter springs (4oz rather than the 12oz that were in it) which is wha the 2.8 Jags ran. bought some SM, KL and ... ive forgetten but they were what the 2.8 Jag ran, will update thinki its BAU.
So booked into Ricky Gauld for tuning (78 now) the last good carb tuner remotely near me. on the 20th July 22. Ricky got the idle running a lot better, first run pulled 180 BHP @ 5600rpm and 162lbs ft. Did splutter rev needles dived up and down about 4000rpm, notable on the charts. It was leaning out at the top end. Verified the needles in it were rich so Rickys theory it needed bigger needles against me thinking it needed smaller we opted for a second run and check the fuel pump. Put fuel presure guage in after the fuel regulator, my job was to watch thge guage as it went throigh the pull.. at about 3500rpm I am thinking, i hope the engine doesnt explode... but very visible the fuiel pressure was solid at 3psi until it got on cam then fell to almost 0 at 7000rpm. That aside managed 185bhp @ 5600rpm and 178lbs/ft. We tried it on the road to see how it behaved. idle and low revs much better. but still spluttering when you get to 3-4 rpm. Ricky felt it was elecxtrical but also both certain the pump needs changed out. Whcih may also be the problem.
bought a red facet pump which both ricky and kev recommended and a malpassi filter king regulator with a pressure gauge.
Qs:
1. BAE needles in it now which Ricky as the other needles i had were all fixed type, and its a flaoting type for the SUs i have. I dont know otherwise but any advise here would be welcome. So if anyone knows what needles i can put in or how to modify to put fixed in a flaoting, im all ears.
2. Any suggestions as to what the stutter might be? Will test leads, plugs all looked good and are brand new.
Opened it up a bit more this last week, stutter aside its notably quicker, loads more torque and really goes. interestingly if i peg down 2 gears and catch it quickly into the 5-6k powerband it does go but on long WOT pulls can feel it leaning out.
Next up is suspension, but thats another thread. Head is at Konis (Toyikos seem non available) + Eibach, i cant face cutting things out of the car.
Pics to follow