Factory Rust Proofing

[Mr Tenno]

I'm still vaguely considering a chemical strip for the 240 but an argument I keep seeing is that it will remove any existing rust protection inside the box sections - was any actually applied to s30s at the factory?

From what I can see on the Cali-car it just seems to be untreated but I don't really know what to look for.

 

[uk66fastback]

But surely, when stripped and the old stuff removed, you redo it all and then fill the holes with grommets, or weld over etc. If you're going for a full strip then it's only sensible.

How rusty are your box sections (pin holes?)

I would be very surprised if there was any rustproofing to the INSIDE of box sections back in 1972!

 

[johnymd]

I don't think there was any rustproofing inside the box sections.

I gather the issue with chemical dipping is the possibility of chemicals being left within the seams of panels. This is then sealed over and will start eating it way through.

 

[samuri-240]

I don't think there was any rustproofing inside the box sections.

I gather the issue with chemical dipping is the possibility of chemicals being left within the seams of panels. This is then sealed over and will start eating it way through.

Yes Johny I think you may be right there, I have heard a few horror stories about chemical stripping.

 

[johnymd]

The problem is guaranteeing you can get the chemicals out of the seam joints which is also the worst place for rust. Trouble is, every option has its problems so there's no perfect solution. IMO if the cars not rotten then leave it all be and restore the outside of the shell. you can then just stonechip any parts that need it and dinnotrol everywhere else. You will then end up with a much better car IMO.

 

[vipergts]

I'm not sure if we've done the whole "DON'T DIP YOUR CAR FFS" before but from personal experience......DON'T

No rust protection from factory....that is for sure

 

[Mr Tenno]

Thanks for the info guys - just want to make sure I'd covered all the bases. Johny, Viper - I'm taking it all into consideration. Thanks again for the warnings.

 

[Mr.G]

I have considered chemical stripping a car but I also take the warnings heeding by the bad experiences.

I would therefore not dip a complete car but would use it for panel stripping... and I most probably will go for the stripping where the processes uses pyrolysis (heat to remove the paint and then a light chemical to de-rust), this process is more gentle then just using a harsh acid to peel the paint off.

EnviroStrip uses this process.

 

[johnymd]

It's a hard choice to make and I'm in the same position with the blue car that I may start soon. Looks a really solid base for a resto and cant make my mind up wheather to take it back to metal or not(the underside. interior and engine bat that is).

The choices are:

1. Address everything you can see and leave all the good stuff intact. Sand the body and paint. Cavity wax everywhere.
2. Shotblast, plastic ballast and scrap to get the entire shell back to metal the epoxy seal, paint and cavity wax.
3. Chemical dip and seal. then paint and wax.

 

[26th-Z]

I dipped my car(s) in a process called reverse electrolysis rust removal where the corrosion is removed by sacrificial anode. This process was part of a chemical stripping that removed everything, including the seam sealer. This left the car completely clean. To address corrosion inside the box sections I applied metal primer / sealer with a garden variety pump sprayer with a long wand. The primer dripped out of the seams in places but is easily (relatively) cleaned before applying seam sealer to all the body seams. Best of luck!