Acid bath recommendations

Mr HollowPoint

Well-Known Forum User
We're getting close to the stage where the 280 needs to go for it's acid bath and I'm looking to get it booked in ASAP. Anyone got any recommendations? So far, most people seem to be pointing to http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/ and their work does look good. I notice they've done a couple of 240s and 260s as well. Just wondered if anyone had any first hand experience with them, or anyone else? :thumbs:
 

DatzunZ

Forum User
A friend had his BMW E9 dipped there last year he was pleased with the results, I went to collect it for him and seen some old shells waiting to be dipped or collected

I would recommend them.
 

z32bolt

Well-Known Forum User
My best mate works restoring 911s some very rare/expensive cars, when I mentioned acid dipping he told me not too. He recons the acid rarely all removed, it then sits in the crevices and causes problems further down the line.
As I say that's what my mate says so it's second hand information, but worth reading into. I always planned to take my TransAM SE back to bear steel and acid bath, however I stil haven't even brought one so it's not much of a plan as a dream. Esp with the way the prices are going.
 

260Z TT

Club Member
We send our 911's to SPL and they have been ok for some time then corrosion sets in where you have been unable to get any treatments or etch primer in. A genuine Martini 911 rusted through where sunroof support was touching the roof panel ! All I can say is be very wary of what you decide !!!
 

Mr HollowPoint

Well-Known Forum User
Interesting points thanks guys. I have heard about people having a nightmare with acid not all being removed and then continuing to burn through later on, but I have also heard people say that doesn't happen with SPL, because they stick it in a neutralising solution straight after, which neutralises any left over acid. Seems to make sense?

Hadn't heard anyone else talk about the car rusting later because the acid removed it's protection and the area then wasn't recovered, but the theory is sound. If you're removing every last spec of rust protection, you need to really make sure you can cover it all back up.

Think will take my chances with SPL, as the more I look, the more people say they are the place to go. They also take the car in twice and e-coat it, rather than just the once and then giving it back. Fingers crossed I don't experience either of these issues I guess.

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datsfun

Club Member
Look forward to the updates...it will be considerably lighter once the acid guzzumped the brown stuff !
 

tel240z

Club Member
so whats e-coat then do they dip it for the e-coat as like others i'm wary, acid dipping might remove all paint and etching but also inside all the box sections, after recently having mine blasted it quite reassuring to see all that luverly mustard colour primer coat still inside the hollow sections
 

fae821w

Club Member
As an Aircraft Painter for 40+ years using chemical paint strippers,I can tell you one of the biggest problems is removing all the residues from areas,and neutralising the stripper.You end up with chemicals leeching-out and attacking new paint,and from being able to re-treat blind areas adequately.Over the years there has been a change to using Media Blasting using prunus shells etc.
I know stripping a car body is easier to deal with than a VC10,but when I was at the NEC Classic Show I was interested to see the alternatives to chemically stripping cars and spoke to a chap about his company,s method which was basically burning paint off,called pyro something.It might be something worth looking at as an alternative,do a google search.

Andy.
 

Mr HollowPoint

Well-Known Forum User
As I understand it, the e-coat is the same stuff they use on the production line these days and is more of a scientific process, like chroming. I.e. it's dipped in a liquid and a current is applied to the car, causing the e-coat to bond to it. I may have misunderstood and am still looking into it, but that's my understanding of it at the moment.

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Is that the place in Birmingham? If so read around about how shells have been treated while there. They seem to be a bunch of cowboys.

Are you going to repair what you can see then get it dipped?
 

Mr HollowPoint

Well-Known Forum User
I'll look for more reviews then franky, as yeah it's them but not seen any bad reviews yet, which I had found encouraging I must say. They dip it twice, give it back to you after dipping and neutralising, then you repair it, take it back and they dip it again, then e-coat it. In theory making it a completely blank canvas on which to do your restore, with industry level protection from the e-coat.

I'll look around for some more reviews, because they make a big deal in their write up about how they handle shells. They supposedly have special crates they put them in and it then sits in that crare for each dipping process.

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Mr HollowPoint

Well-Known Forum User
Well now, funny what you find when you're searching for a company directly, rather than just the process. Searching for 'car dipping' came back with nothing but recommendations for SPL, searching for 'surface processing reviews' however, revealed a lot of people saying much the same thing, shells coming back with previously fine panels, now dented, fork lifts skewering sills, one guy reckons he had to literally stop the guy driving the forklift when he went to pick his shell up, as it was about to fall off the fork lift! Not great!

I also picked up on another guy, who used to work for a company called 'pro strip' in Notts. He didn't work for them any more at the time of writing his post, but basically said that pro strip had to deal with a lot of 'bodge jobs' from SPL. E-Coat hadn't worked properly, the acid they were using hadn't been properly neutralised as promised and later seeped out of the seals and ruined the new paint job, etc.

So now I'm looking into Pro Strip instead. The downside is, that they don't offer an e-coat at all, they just zinc primer it, however, they have been running since the 80s and as yet have not found anything bad about them on the web. Plus a guy who no longer works there is still sending business their way, that usually indicates they're a good place, as I have worked for a few dodgy IT firms over the years and would NEVER send customers their way now.

Also looking into having the car blasted instead, based on what has been said about box sections and nooks and crannies losing their protection, but not having it restored, as Pro Strip still dip the car, but then simply zinc prime it after, which surely won't get into all the nooks and crannies that the original dip got into. I am encouraged by the Pro Strip website though, where instead of saying 'remove all aluminium' like SPL do, they say that they themselves will check the shell thoroughly for ferrous and non-ferrous materials, separate it all and treat each piece appropriately.
 

z-spec

Well-Known Forum User
we do business with a company in Belgium , who is using a alkali , ( i hope its the right word ) fluid in a spray cabine , is does not taking the rust and its not etscing the metal ,of but it removes a the paint and sealer , we have kept stipped in storage for more than a year without any rust on it .
 

z32bolt

Well-Known Forum User
If you want I can speak to Chris and see where they take the cars now and what they do with them? I keep encouraging him to start ******* about with zeds but he won't move away from 911s
 

vipergts

Well-Known Forum User
I theory its a good idea but DON'T acid dip.

I had a car dipped by SPL then neutralised and E coated. They wrecked previously undamaged panels and despite the car NEVER getting wet in the last 3 years its now showing signs of rusting through

To say I am devastated is no enough. I spent 79k on this car in total and I now hate it.
 

Mr HollowPoint

Well-Known Forum User
Yeah I've heard some nightmare stories about SPL now. I've decided to still dip it, but to use a different firm. Company called pro-strip in Nottingham. They do it all in one go and at their own plant, dip, neutralise and then zinc prime via electro-chemical-bonding.

Not seen a bad word said about Pro-Strip, unlike SPL and where SPL dip it, chuck it back at you to repair it, then dip it again and then send it elsewhere for E-Coating, Pro-Strip do it all in one go, in house and at every stage they use anti-corrosion chemicals to ensure that once it's zinc coated, there is absolutely no chance of rust coming through in the immediate future.

It's nearly ready now too, got the sideskirt and front wing to get off tomorrow, then the engine to pull out, loom to pull out and subframes to remove, a couple of solid days working down the unit and it'll be ready to go for it's swim. lol
 
Yeah I've heard some nightmare stories about SPL now. I've decided to still dip it, but to use a different firm. Company called pro-strip in Nottingham. They do it all in one go and at their own plant, dip, neutralise and then zinc prime via electro-chemical-bonding.

Not seen a bad word said about Pro-Strip, unlike SPL and where SPL dip it, chuck it back at you to repair it, then dip it again and then send it elsewhere for E-Coating, Pro-Strip do it all in one go, in house and at every stage they use anti-corrosion chemicals to ensure that once it's zinc coated, there is absolutely no chance of rust coming through in the immediate future.

It's nearly ready now too, got the sideskirt and front wing to get off tomorrow, then the engine to pull out, loom to pull out and subframes to remove, a couple of solid days working down the unit and it'll be ready to go for it's swim. lol

Pro strip do not e coat do they? How do you expect them to spray in every single panel fold/hidden gap etc?
 

Mr HollowPoint

Well-Known Forum User
It's not a spray, but it's not specifically e-coat either. It's still applied with electricity and chemicals, but it's a zinc primer, so it will get in every single panel fold/hidden gap. I asked the same question, as on the website it appears as though they paint it, but it's applied using an electro-chemical bond.
 
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