240z SU carb linkage dis connection

Graham Palmer

Club Member
As above, going to look at balancing and adjusting mixture on my Japan SU carbs...what's the easiest way of disconnecting the linkage between the two carbs ?

cheers.

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You slack off the screw that links the 2 together in the middle. Your picture is confusing as, when dealing with the balancing of the carbs, you do it on the air filter side, with the filter off.

Have you got a syncrometer?
 
OK, I'm being really dim now...I thought I had to 'separate' the operation of the 2 carbs when setting up the air flow and the mixture. To do that I thought I had to somehow decouple the rod joining the two carbs (marked below) ?.....If I do need to do that..what do I disconnect ?...if I don't need to do that...is there something else I do need to do ?...thanks in advice.

MCBlade - I only have a Haynes manual...which does not cover this (I think !)

cheers G

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Select your year (or what is appropriate for what's on your car) for example, I've got a 72 240z, but my engine is from a 76 280z.

Just download it to your phone, I find it easy to refer to when I'm working on the car 👍

I'm pretty sure the Haynes manual does cover balancing of the carbs. It's tricky to get right - I had @Farmer42 sort mine. I had them restored, and zinc plated but, when I got them back, they needed tuning again and I never set the bowl floats 😔

Tricky when you've never done it before, but easy when you have. It'll make sense etc.
 
Crack the nut that forms part of the connecting bar to the left of the green circle. It's basically a friction fitting and only needs backing off not removing. Put a spanner on the hex on the other end of the bar to avoid putting all the strain on the linkage.
I'm certainly no expert only having ever really spent time balancing these carbs.
Have a look at my reply in the section on setting float levels for a useful picture on the float level and a link to a video.
Hope this helps.
 
Crack the nut that forms part of the connecting bar to the left of the green circle. It's basically a friction fitting and only needs backing off not removing. Put a spanner on the hex on the other end of the bar to avoid putting all the strain on the linkage.
I'm certainly no expert only having ever really spent time balancing these carbs.
Have a look at my reply in the section on setting float levels for a useful picture on the float level and a link to a video.
Hope this helps.
that's helpful, thanks !
 
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