UK 260Z 2 seater for sale

Needa240z

Club Member
I guess it's a great car lolšŸ˜‚
 

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Tsundokuist

New Forum User
So the recommendation is to look elsewhere with this one?

Basically, I've just stopped paying nursery fees and I'm looking for a "Project" S30 Z as a new way to flush that now spare money down the toilet. Given I have a very specific build in mind (widebody, KW Suspension, TE37 wheels, big brakes, dark blue respray, getting closer to 300bhp or engine swap (for the A/C possibility)) it doesn't really make sense to go in at the top-end of the market so I'm thinking of just jumping on the first "cheaper" car so I can make a start but it sounds like this one has a rotten core and that's pretty common?

What particularly should I be looking for on that front? (I assume primaily it's strut towers and the floorpan?) but any specific body panels that are almost impossible to replace?
 

Robotsan

Club Member
So the recommendation is to look elsewhere with this one?

Basically, I've just stopped paying nursery fees and I'm looking for a "Project" S30 Z as a new way to flush that now spare money down the toilet. Given I have a very specific build in mind (widebody, KW Suspension, TE37 wheels, big brakes, dark blue respray, getting closer to 300bhp or engine swap (for the A/C possibility)) it doesn't really make sense to go in at the top-end of the market so I'm thinking of just jumping on the first "cheaper" car so I can make a start but it sounds like this one has a rotten core and that's pretty common?

What particularly should I be looking for on that front? (I assume primaily it's strut towers and the floorpan?) but any specific body panels that are almost impossible to replace?

Yeah don't buy this one. If you don't a UK car that isn't a patchwork quilt of welds, you're looking at a tatty one for 25k, 30k+ for a good one, and 35 to 40 for the best, generally speaking.

Better to start with a dry state import 240/260/280z which can be had for half that with just a bit a surface rust here and there. You can then get the welding work done to convert them to RHD for around 4k. But then you could easily spend another 4 to 5k on the RHD parts needed like the dash, which people ask silly money for.

In terms of panels, I think there's repros available for all of the places they usually rust - which is the floors, the sills, the dog legs, the rear quarters/arches, the rear hatch slam panel, the battery tray... the rad support panel.. the list goes on unfortunately šŸ˜‚ Strut towers are not actually one of those areas.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Iā€™ve tried really hard to bite my lip on this one and not say much, but ā€¦.

Just to point out a couple of easy to see items -> Look at the number of places that fuel line is fouling moving / rattling engine parts. Then there is that rattle can spray hiding something + the overspray. Does any of this suggest attention to detail from the PO and bring the quality and attention to detail of other repairs into question?


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Unless budget or final value v spend isnā€™t an issue, buying this car would be a heart decision.
 

Stockdale

Club Member
Heā€™s not been able to sell his other ones at the prices stated for many many months.
I do wonder what an honest/straight UK RHD 240z would go for these daysā€¦..
Not sure about total production but am aware that 51,000 z's were produced during the year 1973 and a presumption of earlier years might be made. That would have included early 2 seat 260z's (including my own) although only a little over 1% were imported to the UK. Most rotted away within 7 years or so and so the number of UK survivors will be very very small. Something like hens teeth.
 

toopy

Club Member
Iā€™ve tried really hard to bite my lip on this one and not say much, but ā€¦.

Just to point out a couple of easy to see items -> Look at the number of places that fuel line is fouling moving / rattling engine parts. Then there is that rattle can spray hiding something + the overspray. Does any of this suggest attention to detail from the PO and bring the quality and attention to detail of other repairs into question?


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Surely anyone serious about selling a car like this, should at least renew those fuel hoses, even if they aren't secured properly.

And that fuel filter looks awful, christ how hard is it to replace that! looks 20 years old :oops:
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
It's got two bids - currently Ā£15,100.
Could these be ā€œfriendlyā€ bids? Weā€™ve been here before with other cars (and other things Iā€™ve personally been bidding for). Either way, I have my bucket of pop corn out.

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Geoff-R

Club Member
Iā€™ve tried really hard to bite my lip on this one and not say much, but ā€¦.

Just to point out a couple of easy to see items -> Look at the number of places that fuel line is fouling moving / rattling engine parts. Then there is that rattle can spray hiding something + the overspray. Does any of this suggest attention to detail from the PO and bring the quality and attention to detail of other repairs into question?


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Unless budget or final value v spend isnā€™t an issue, buying this car would be a heart decision.

That fuel line just makes me nervous! I remember reading your build thread about the fibre washers for the fuel rail, that's detail. Can you imagine on a hot day that engine heating up and melting the fuel hose!

As Rob has said, the guy was in his 80s, he wasn't expecting to sell it so I feel it's a little unfair to pick it apart without him defending, however, it's not being sold correctly now and that's nothing to do with him.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
That fuel line just makes me nervous! I remember reading your build thread about the fibre washers for the fuel rail, that's detail. Can you imagine on a hot day that engine heating up and melting the fuel hose!

As Rob has said, the guy was in his 80s, he wasn't expecting to sell it so I feel it's a little unfair to pick it apart without him defending, however, it's not being sold correctly now and that's nothing to do with him.
Thanks for the kind words buddy. I agree 100% - the trouble with this car is (as you say) the way it's being sold + the price the chap is hoping to realise for it given the condition. I just use what I can see to make assumptions (rightly or wrongly) about things I can't see below the paint / underseal.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Thanks for the kind words buddy. I agree 100% - the trouble with this car is (as you say) the way it's being sold + the price the chap is hoping to realise for it given the condition. I just use what I can see to make assumptions (rightly or wrongly) about things I can't see below the paint / underseal.
The dealer could have at least corrected the fuel run etc. And describe it accurately. An accurate description can work sometimes.
 
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jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
The fuel run isn't pretty and in 100k miles it might suffer enough abrasion to leak, but really its just a cosmetic concern. I don't think it tells you anything about the quality of any other work. It might run great and be an excellent basis for a rolling restoration. It also might not be šŸ˜ƒ. You'd have to have a look under it to know.
 
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