Limited Slip Diffs | The Z Club of Great Britain

Limited Slip Diffs

Discussion in 'S30 (240Z,260Z,280Z) Drivetrain' started by smileyinside, Jul 17, 2017.

  1. smileyinside


    Looking through the club archives, there is much discussion on this topic. I also found a superb write up on the variations of the diffs Nissan made + types of LSDs used. Thought it may be of interest:

    So come on experienced heads, what would you use on a road going R200 diff without silly torque / power?

    Also it seems like LSDs have produced diff whine in the past.

    Would something like this just drop into a long nosed R200? It looks like a good / relatively inexpensive option. Although I know you get what you pay for so what's the catch?!?

    From what I gather:

    Clutch versions (CLSDs) need maintenance,generate lots of heat and can be quite aggressive , especially at low speed causing understeer.

    The Quaife ones are great but being one way have shortcomings when wheel lift occurs. Although I can imagine the lifetime warranty (even if raced) is attractive to the club "strippers".

    OS Giken - awesome but out of the average price range.

    KAAS/Cusco- plate based but durable and do 1.5 and 2 way, with the 1.5 being the most suitable for the likes of me just "road racing" and the odd track day.

    Nissan Viscous LSDs - are the smoothest but apparently generate lots of heat and can cause leaks / need some kind of external storage for the LSD fluid (is that last bit right?) hence you can vary viscosity.
  2. Moriarty

    Moriarty Forum User

    My question is how often do you lift a wheel on a rear wheel car with IRS especially a street driven car

    I run a Quaife in the race car and much prefer it over a clutch pack (swopped in, tried it, didn't like the understeer or the backend under engine braking, or the noise and swapped back to Quaife)

    Cons with a clutch pack
    Clutch pack wear and cost of replacement
    Did I mention heat
    Specific oil must be used
    Dinosaur technology, recommended by dinosaurs
    Adjustment to get the sweet spot right (street, track, shopping, polishing chrome in a field) they all have different requirements

    Pros with Quaife
    Non of the above

    Cons with Quaife
    Customer service

    Did I mention I like ATB units
  3. smileyinside


    Buddy you absolutely cracked me up!!

    Thanks for the great advice as ever.
  4. moggy240


    Don't forget Subaru r180 they fit with modified stub axles
  5. jonbills

    Z Club Member

    Is it the same modified stub axles that are needed for the r200 short nose diff?
  6. franky

    franky Active Forum User

    I've ran plates units in all my toy cars, no issues. They're still the choice for a lot of manufacturers also.
  7. johnymd

    johnymd Active Forum User

    I'm not experienced enough to tell you what is good or bad but I do have experience with both a quaife and a plate in longnose R200's. The plate diff seams to be the preferred choice for those that are experienced enough and have the ability to know exactly how to set the diff for their specific use and be happy enough to keep taking it apart for adjustments. This is why I'm running the fit and forget quaife in my blue car. There are a few things I don't like about the quaife but put up with. It has a lot of play inside the diff due to the helical gears moving up and down in their pockets. I don't like the fact that only one wheel spins during a burnout at the drag strip so I only get one sticky tyre. Customer service, as already mentioned. I don't like how noisy it is. This is actually not an issue with the quaife but as a result of the gears not meshing exactly as they have done for the last 35+years due to changing the differential section.

    I will be using the plate R200 I have in the 280z I'm building but only to it needing an LSD (4.3lt V8 torque) and I happen to have it. For the orange car I'm building I'll probably go for a Subaru R180 lsd as it should be quiet and will work out slightly less than the quaife.
  8. SeanDezart

    SeanDezart Official Trader

    Cons of an ATM - not homologated for 'serious' :rolleyes: racing.

    I had a clutch pack and am turning to a Scooby hydraulic unit to be a nicer road car.
  9. smileyinside


    Great to hear all your experienced thoughts chaps.

    Looks like the scooby diff can be had for half the price of a Quaife, so I can see the attraction; and the stubs are readily available with a quick Google search.

    So here's a question: the Subaru has a 4.444 final drive. That's a 20% difference to the say 3.7 I'm supposed to have in a 260z (or is it 3.5 and 21%?).

    Isn't that going to totally mess with the drivability of the car? Will it become like a diesel in first gear? And a Corsa Sri of the 90s in 5th? (That car used to sit well over 5500RPM at 90mph!)

    Has anyone done that conversion and can opine?
  10. SeanDezart

    SeanDezart Official Trader

    Ballocks !

    Mine'll be a 3.54 - lovely in 5th gear.
  11. franky

    franky Active Forum User

    google a gearing calculator.

    I've gone for a 4.44 as it suits the 5 speed box, still gives a top speed of 140ish mph.

    Should provide great in gear thrust.

    Seems seans going for an american 'wide ratio' option:D
  12. smileyinside


    You kiss your mother with that mouth!? :eek:

    The one I found was 4.444 but I now realise the error of my ways! ;)

    So did you have to mod drive shaft and any mounting points?
  13. SeanDezart

    SeanDezart Official Trader

    Not on the mouth !

    Sean won't need to be screaming and bouncing valves all over the place to reach140mph and tell me where you can do that in the UK nowadays ?

    Besides, Seanie has a stack of diffs at home - those are parts like quick-shifts that can be changed relatively rapidly if I feel the need to become more sporty like The Kid here.:p
  14. smileyinside


  15. SeanDezart

    SeanDezart Official Trader

    I have a few sets of John Williams stub axels - lovely chap.:D
  16. franky

    franky Active Forum User

    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 17, 2017
  17. jonbills

    Z Club Member

    John, why does only one wheel spinup in the burn out with the Quaife? Is it effectively same as wheel in the air?
    I was going to get a Quaife to fix that very problem
  18. SeanDezart

    SeanDezart Official Trader

    1st to 2nd 2991 42
    2nd to 3rd 2186 74 (quicker to 60 as I won't be changing gears)
    3rd to 4th 1648 107
    4th to 5th 1134 140
    5th top speed 168

    Thats assuming 225/50/15
    3.54 diff

    3000rpm at 70mph / 125mph at 5500

    or something in between using one of my R200 3.9s :

    1st to 2nd 2991 38
    2nd to 3rd 2186 67 (quicker to 60 as I won't be changing gears)
    3rd to 4th 1648 97
    4th to 5th 1134 127
    5th top speed 152

    Thats assuming 225/50/15
    3.90 diff

    3250rpm at 70mph / 125mph at 6000rpm
  19. franky

    franky Active Forum User

    sean you know thats a token value of 7000rpm. Given another few hundred rpm and it'll be 60.

    Its missing the point though for me, It gives great thrust and the chance to have a nice mix of ratios/thrust for spirited sunday drives.

    Glad to see you kept the excel I sent :)
  20. SeanDezart

    SeanDezart Official Trader

    I have it saved in several formats thanks....and I'm counting on my ol' stroker to give me all the trust I need and besides, our roads are more open and we're more likely to drive longer distances hence Efi and a long ratio on 15" wheels.

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