Help i broke my z

neil300zx

neil300zx

Well-Known Forum User
Hi all

As a lot of you know im doing a auto to manual conversion on my Z31, well i started today all was going fine untill i tried to take off the front pipe of the exhaust, the bolts to the manifold were extremley rusty so i sprayed with WD40 i tried to undo them with my 1/2" drive racthet no luck so i used my long extention piece and ended up snapping off all 3 studs, oh sh*t.:eek: Now i did speak to Mr F in the week regarding some bits and mentioned to him that i could be interested in a msa 3 into 2 header. Do you think Mr F is into black magic and put a spell on my exhaust so that i buy one from him. :D Well i suppose whilst its in bit i might as well. I would also like some advice on how to get the rusted nuts off of the manifold with out breaking them off too, im sure you guys have had the same problem with your nuts being rusty.

Regards
 
The consolidated opinion from this side of the channel is to use your nuts more frequently to avoid premature......rusting !
 
Copper slip - is this a new type of undercover Police outfit ? Sorry guys, there are three of us Z fans here in Toulouse after (a few too many) glasses of whatever was available !
 
Hi,
When the local exhaust centre kindly fitted my front pipe for me, it took them about an hour and a half using a welding torch to heat the nuts up and an angle grinder to grind away the residue of rust from the joint!....Glad I didn't try it!;)
The heat from the turbo had virtually welded the pipe on!
Cheerz,
JEZ
 
Yes localised heat on the nuts (to try to get the nut to expand more than the stud) and don't try to move them too much at once. If you are lucky to get movement then work them back and forwards many times making a bit more progress each go, and use plenty of penetrating oil. Even then they might still break, we've all been there!

If you have enough space around the nuts and they are really stuck how about grinding one side off or cutting a slot with a hacksaw to weaken the nut.

The main thing is try not to lose your calm (difficult I know) it will only take longer in the end. When things get too much have a cuppa and come back to it. Good luck!
 
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Thanks for the replies lads, I got the auto box out this morning, went to tale the fllywheel off 6 bolts 5 out just like that 1 stubborn mother ended up grinding the hex part off the nut took of the fly wheel and the remainder of the thread came out with no problem only used my fingers, wish it would have come out like that earlier. Anyway after that cleaned up all the manual box bits fitted new thrust bearing cleaned inside bell housing waiting for pressure plate to come back from the bead blaster then hopefully get the manual box in next weekend, then rain stopped play, hoping to take some pics in the week and i will post for the interested parties

Thanks
 
Hi all

here are some pictures of the gearbox conversion that im doing
PS what do you think of the drive. (not bad for a airconditioning engineer)
someonesnickedmywheels.jpg

Dash.jpg

autobox.jpg


Nodash.jpg
 
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Looks like a big job, I find dashboard and trim dismantling very frustrating. I'm impressed with the drive, take care not to get any oil on it.

Did you sort out the rusted exhaust nuts/bolts?
 
Hooray

The manual box is finally in reversing lights sorted and did have a little prob with the starter motor as the car thought it still had the auto box in and was in drive so it would'nt turn over but once that was sorted it fired first time on the key after being stood for 5 weeks. I would like to thank Dr Shemp for coming to meet me today the idea was to have a chat and swap stories but he ended up helping me for about 5 hours and it was the doc that sorted reversing lights and the starting prob, what a geezer.so all i need now is the MSA 3into 2 header cos its a tad noisey at the mo without the front pipe but everything seems to be okay with the execption of the clutch, its like standing on a wet fish, the pedal is very sloppy when first pushed then it does stiffen up but you have to push it right to the floor to put it in gear and only have to let it up slightly before it bites, we must have put 2ltr of fluid through the system and im still not convinced that all the air is out of the system, have i got a problem with any of the cylinders?

Thanks
 
Hi Neil,

When I replaced my slave cylinder I had the same problem, in that after a couple of hours of bleeding the system, the pedal was still partially flopping to the floor. GER300 recommended taking the reservoir cap off and pushing and pulling the pedal until all the air had escaped through the reservoir.It worked for me in a matter of minutes!
Here's the original thread...
http://www.zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=857&highlight=clutch+bleeding

Cheerz,
JEZ
 
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as mr f said in that post, bleed the master first. the way i do it is to get some kind soul to sit in the car and pump the pedal when i shout. i remove the pipe from the master and put my finger over the hole and bleed like that, then put the pipe back and then do the next joint till i get to the slave cylinder.... never failed yet!;)
 
Hi Neil got back in 45 minutes, touching 120 at times ( sorry officers ) , but had to give it a blast with the new filters etc fitted and the exhaust baffle out.It runs like a dream. Nice to put a face to the name at last, it was my pleasure helping you out and a usefull education for me. I feel confident now to go ahead with my conversion. I think you've done a fantastic job for someone who hasn't attempted this kind of thing before. Its a huge daunting task for someone who isnt a mechanic, but the results speak for themselves, so if anyone else is thinking of doing this conversion have a look at Niel's posts and get your overalls on and have a go. Before you go swapping slave cylinders and the whole bleeding process again it might be an idea to to fit the old exhaust back on and run it for 50/100 miles and give it a chance to settle in. Alternatively take it to a Quick fit type clutch specialist. It wont cost a lot, perhaps nothing if you ask nicely for a bit of advice. Nice to see her back on her wheels. Cheers.
 
Thanks for the replys guys, i have bled from all three points one on the master cylinder one on the slave and one on the operating cylinder but still no joy, i noticed in the thread of yours Jez that ger300 says he had the cap off the master cylinder at the time but i bled mine with the cap off all the time so i could fill it up without having to take it off every time and i used one of those auto bleed kits, but in saying that i will try all the suggestions tommorrow
 
finger in hole mate, it always brings a smile when it works!!!! if it dont you have a crap master/slave or a problem with the distance between thrust bearing and pressure plate ie; too far apart for the piston in the slave cylinder too reach.
 
Hi Doc

Cant fit old exhaust back on snapped the three studs of the manifold to front pipe conection when removing auto box thats why im waiting for my 3 into 2 header i thought might as well get it now rather than in 2-3 months as originally intended and have to take it out again, once again thanks for the help

Regards
 
Hi Grolls
the piston in the operating cylinder will push it far enough as i have already checked that, i will try ger300 suggestion of pushing pedal with cap off cylinder as fast as i can first ( thought about putting elastic band round my knob at the same time) then ill try finger up the hole

sorry about going off topic or is that snickers
 
i have a large assortment of lackie bands but masses of small ones going spare as ive never used them!:D
 
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