Front wheel bearing fit

[AD240Z]

Afternoon

When refitting the hub to the spindle - should it take force to get the hub in place because of the inner bearing ?

When I pulled it apart - the hub and bearings slid off no problem. I’ve changed the races and bearings but when I’m refitting the hub - it won’t go on far enough.

When I pulled it back off - the bearing is jammed on the spindle ( assume it goes all the way on) at the top of the conical part .

As it came apart easily I don’t want to force it on - if something isn’t right ?

Any ideas gratefully received .

 

[jonbills]

I don't think that's right. I think as a taper roller bearing you shouldn't have to force it on- all the loading comes from torquing the nut at the end. Where'd the kit come from?

 

[AD240Z]

Thanks Jon.

It came from mike so I’m guessing it’s good.

I can only just get the nut on the spindle end when the hub is on.

I changed the bearing because the hub was overheating. Makes me wonder if there was s problem with the old one ?

 

[jonbills]

Yeah maybe the hubs been swapped?

 

[Rob Gaskin]

Not sure I'm understanding you about refitting the hub - it sounds like you are doing it with the bearing in the hub? The bearing should be fitted first to the spindle and driven home.

I would pull the bearing off and retry making sure that it is perfectly aligned and 'square' on the spindle.


When you removed the hub did this bearing come off with the hub?

 

[jonbills]

The bearing seats are driven into the hub Rob, but the bearings don't get driven in. They should slide over the spindle easily.

 

[AD240Z]

Thanks guys - i was looking at this - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/frontwheelbearings/index.html

When I pulled the hub off - it came off with the old bearing in really easily .

Wasn’t sure if supposed to do that or that was the problem with the old one ( not fitted properly)

 

[toopy]

As in that AtlanicZ thread, the hub and inner bearing and seal are one unit when fitted, it's only the outer bearing that is seperate.

If the original problem was over heating, was it perhaps over tightened? in the Haynes manual it says to torque it to 22 Ib/ft while rotating the hub in a forwards direction and then back it off 60 degrees. When i re-greased and fitted mine a while back, the difference between the torqued setting and then the - 60 degree bit was slight but noticeable.
If you spin the hub at the torqued setting it spins fine, but lose the 60 degrees and it spins free-er, but with no looseness/rocking, it's hard to describe, but you can 'feel' it when you are doing it.

 

[AD240Z]

Cheers Toopy - worth knowing.

Stupidly I didn’t really investigate the old one .

Having discounted the brake calliper as the source of heat - I just set about removing the bearing , and didn’t think much of it until the hub didn’t just slot back on ..

 

[AD240Z]

Found this - same brand bearing and issue

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums...o-on-the-spindle/?tab=comments#comment-525106

I’ll give this a go

 

[Rob Gaskin]

The bearing seats are driven into the hub Rob, but the bearings don't get driven in. They should slide over the spindle easily.

Oh ok, it's been a while! So why is the bearing in the pic stuck on the spindle?

 

[AD240Z]

Oh ok, it's been a while! So why is the bearing in the pic stuck on the spindle?

I pushed the hub -complete with inner bearing on. It went on part way then stuck.

When I pulled the hub back off - the bearing remained. I took the pic at that point .

 

[Woody928]

I've just been through this and had many of the same headaches and frustration.

The way I did it was by sliding the seal and inner roller bearing onto the spindle first, the roller bearing can be a tight fit so some patience and fiddling will be required. The big hurdle you will have is making sure that you have both of the races fully in place inside the hub as without which it won't bed down correctly.

Refit the hub before fitting the outer roller bearing on the spindle and putting the backing plate and locking nut back on. Tighten everything up to make sure its settled in and then back it off before torquing it down as described by Toppy above and refit a new split pin.

You should be good to go at that point, take it for a drive and then check that there's no play and that nothing has moved after the drive.

That sounds way easier than it really is, in relaity its an utter pain... Good luck!

 

[Rob Gaskin]

I pushed the hub -complete with inner bearing on. It went on part way then stuck.

When I pulled the hub back off - the bearing remained. I took the pic at that point .

From my memory (yes I have remembered now) I thought the oil-seal stopped the taper bearing falling out. Your oil-seal appears to be on the spindle too, that should be in the hub and a tight fit.

All I can imagine is that you didn't get the bearing aligned when you fitted the hub. The taper should help of course.

 

[AD240Z]

I've just been through this and had many of the same headaches and frustration.

The way I did it was by sliding the seal and inner roller bearing onto the spindle first, the roller bearing can be a tight fit so some patience and fiddling will be required. The big hurdle you will have is making sure that you have both of the races fully in place inside the hub as without which it won't bed down correctly.

Refit the hub before fitting the outer roller bearing on the spindle and putting the backing plate and locking nut back on. Tighten everything up to make sure its settled in and then back it off before torquing it down as described by Toppy above and refit a new split pin.

You should be good to go at that point, take it for a drive and then check that there's no play and that nothing has moved after the drive.

That sounds way easier than it really is, in relaity its an utter pain... Good luck!

Thanks Woody . I don’t think I did enough fiddling on the bearing as assumed it would just slide right on. Pain in the arse as it was well greased .

I’ll bear in mind and persevere .

 

[AD240Z]

From my memory (yes I have remembered now) I thought the oil-seal stopped the taper bearing falling out. Your oil-seal appears to be on the spindle too, that should be in the hub and a tight fit.

All I can imagine is that you didn't get the bearing aligned when you fitted the hub. The taper should help of course.

Thanks Rob. The seal was just there as I was messing around finding the problem. It wouldn’t pass the bearing so is just there out the way.

Like above - I need to fiddle more I think and try and get it moving .

Cheers

 

[MaximG]

I also wonder if it has anything to do with climate conditions? It has been very hot over the last few days and wonder if the spindle expanded enough to cause you interference problems, just a thought.

 

[AD240Z]

I also wonder if it has anything to do with climate conditions? It has been very hot over the last few days and wonder if the spindle expanded enough to cause you interference problems, just a thought.

Good thought mate . If it’s a tight fit it might not harm trying to cool it if this continues ....

 

[johnymd]

I have removed and refitted (but not changed bearings) on many front hubs. All the parts except the outer race, stay in the hub and slide off and on the spindle very easily. The outer parts of the races should be a tight fit in the hub and the inner parts a looser fit on the spindle. It sounds like the newer bearings are a tiny bit closer tolerance. So you could install the seal and bearing on the spindle first then pull the hub onto the bearing with the nut. This should ensure it goes on straight.

 

[Albrecht]

The way I did it was by sliding the seal and inner roller bearing onto the spindle first...

So you could install the seal and bearing on the spindle first then pull the hub onto the bearing with the nut. This should ensure it goes on straight.

New effort-saving idea: Put your socks inside your shoes and kill two birds with one stone by putting them both on at the same time. It's a bit difficult at first (you can try it with shorter socks until you get the hang of it) but worth persisting. Then you can move up to the higher level of undercrackers inside trousers.