Chemical Strip

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Out of interest, how long have these dipping process been around? are there any cars to be seen that were dipped 40 yrs ago and haven't crumbled?
 

Mr.G

Club Member
Enviro-Strip do use acid during the second de-rusting stage of their process (after pyrolysis) but importantly its phosphoric acid, not hydrochloric. This means it can be fully neutralized with suitable salt removers during the same stage.

If you look through the gallery on their website, there's actually a US import 240Z shell pictured before and after their process.

Good spot...
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Mr.G

Club Member
Out of interest, how long have these dipping process been around? are there any cars to be seen that were dipped 40 yrs ago and haven't crumbled?

Good question.... I don't know the answer to this but I think it's a relatively new process available to the UK general public (6 years?), happy to be corrected...

My take on the horror stories are as follows:

- For the UK - Mainly down to one outfit (not naming names)
- Bad QC when they were first starting out but this has on the whole been improved hence less up to date occurrences of bad press....etc..

I could of course be wrong just how I see it at present.
 

strugrat

Club Member
I had my shell dipped at Prostrip and would recommend them. I was happy to use acid as I knew all the box section needed opening (sills, chassic legs etc). I've no regrets at the moment!!

I did also use Envirostrip but only for getting a few parts dipped. Also good but some of the parts were damaged when they were returned to me. Not a massive problem to be honest and more than likely down to clumsy loading of parts. Doubt it would be an issue with a shell.

Prostrip was around £1500 IIRC.
 

Dave B

Well-Known Forum User
Sorry to drag a year old thread, but I'm seriously thinking of booking my shell in at Pro-Strip next month for acid dipping and Ecoating. They gave me a good quote at the nec last year and I like the idea of all the hard to reach places getting treated (the acid will neutralise any surface rust?) and also get electro primered for future protection. They're also only 30 miles from me.
Anyone had any further experiences of acid dipping? Or can provide any updates on how it's lasted?



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i16v

Forum User
I had my 260 Bead blasted only 3 month ago cost £360 the guy who done it was great really passionate about what he dose won't blast the roof though fear of distortion only just the other side of Northampton not to far for you can give you his number if interested

Derrick:)



Where abouts was, near Silverstone? Once I get hold of a Z I'll be looking at getting this done myself. I'm over near Kettering.
 

johnymd

Club Member
I'm still considering chemical strip as I'm guessing they have some success and it does sound like the only way to fully seal the metal.
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
I saw on FaceWotsit the other day someone strippping an old Yank car with water vapour but I guess that is more for parts rather than a whole shell.
 
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richiep

Club Member
I saw on FaceWotsit the other day someone strippping an old Yank car with water vapour but I guess that is more for parts rather than a whole shell.

Like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCehkkTTeMk

Dustless blasting. Media is basically suspended in a high pressure water spray. It keeps the temperature generated on impact down so fixes the warpage problem seen with dry blasting. Doesn't create clouds of dust as the water retains it. They also add a rust inhibitor to the mixture so that the car can't flash rust.

I've been looking at the dipping processes for future reference and I think the safest seems to be what Enviro-Strip and Ribble Technology offer, i.e. pyrolysis-based treatment. Slow bake the paint and **** off in an oven, dipped in a de-rusting solution, then dipped in a phosphate inhibitor solution, then immersed in a neutralising tank. When dried, they then epoxy prime (Ribble Tech say they use an electrostatic epoxy like powder coat).

Some of the others (SPL) use hydrochloric acid, and that is where the horror stories about rust reappearing and paint streaking comes from as it doesn't get properly neutralised in seams like phosphate salts can be. I wouldn't go near an operation using hydrochloric acid-based dip, not for a shell anyway.
 

Mr Tenno

Digital Officer
Staff member
Site Administrator
As the starter of the thread - after my research I decided that the chemical stripping was too risky and that media blasting would result in dust hidden everywhere in the car.

In the end I decided to pay someone to hand strip it (My neighbours wouldn't have appreciated the noise doing it myself)
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
That was the one rich. Can't see too many negatives with that except the mess it'd leave on your drive! Which you could then blast clean ...

No idea how prevalent it is here yet though. Don't blasters think walnut shells are high tech ...
 

richiep

Club Member
Dry ice blasting is another newer tech making its way into car stripping. Small dry ice pellets are used as the media. They obliterate into nothing on impact so no dust from them, just the stuff stripped off. It can be fine tuned in pressure and pellet size to the point you can use it to strip paint at one end of the spectrum, or just remove dirt while being completely paint safe at the other.
 

johnymd

Club Member
What about sand blasting the underside/floors ect and plastic bead blasting the panels? The other alternative is soda blasting.
 

Dave B

Well-Known Forum User
Soda blasting is my other choice, I just like the idea of be dipping and e-coating getting to parts the blaster couldn't. They both have their pro's and cons.
My mate who will be painting the car can also arrange for it to be stripped by hand, but I'm wary of surface rust they can't get to, blistering through, or causing havoc inside the sills etc later down the line...


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Dave B

Well-Known Forum User
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I'm guessing by the name of the chemical involved, Pro Strip use phosphoric acid not hydrochloric.


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johnymd

Club Member
I'm guessing a body shop would charge about the same amount to take a shell back to metal and etch prime.
 
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