uk66fastback
Club Member
POR - Paint Over Rust. If there isn't any rust, then don't use it. I've never got on with it either.
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Best way to refurb sump pan?
- Thread starter Robotsan
- Start date
Robotsan
Club Member
While the sump is off, I'm going to remove the caps and inspect the bearings and crank for wear. Engine has only done 68k miles, so hopefully its ok, but may as well check them anyway while I can. I have a very experienced good friend who's guiding me through this!
But I was wondering about the process of removing and installing the main side seals @240L31 - would you be able to advise me on this please?
As luck would have it, I came across this video:
- which shows installing new ones.
He does it by installing them in that main end cap, and then pushing that in. Then taps them all the way in with the metal pins.
So looks like I'll have to remove the main cap? Which looks tricky.. any tips?! Found some threads about on other forums.
Also found this video which shows removing it:
Looks like you put a long bolt in the centre thread, and lever it out with a combo of hammers, crowbars, blocks of wood and swearing. I'll look forward to that then.
But I was wondering about the process of removing and installing the main side seals @240L31 - would you be able to advise me on this please?
As luck would have it, I came across this video:
He does it by installing them in that main end cap, and then pushing that in. Then taps them all the way in with the metal pins.
So looks like I'll have to remove the main cap? Which looks tricky.. any tips?! Found some threads about on other forums.
Also found this video which shows removing it:
Looks like you put a long bolt in the centre thread, and lever it out with a combo of hammers, crowbars, blocks of wood and swearing. I'll look forward to that then.
Last edited:
240L31
Club Member
Agreed.
You can pull out the old side seals with a pair of needle nose pliers (to get started, I used a screwdriver). Then use brake cleaner to clean the slot. Apply some RTV on the side seals, push them all the way in until they bottom out. I think you have to trim them so that they sit flush with the oil pan flange.
All in all it is an easy task, even with the engine still in the car.
Robotsan
Club Member
Ok cool. It was just because it looked like I needed to to reinstall the side seals.
Robotsan
Club Member
I'll give it a go. What if there's old RTV in there already?
uk66fastback
Club Member
Clean it out!
Robotsan
Club Member
With the main cap still in place? Would seem tricky. It's just a 4mm opening.
240L31
Club Member
No need to pull the main cap. I didn't struggle at least. It might be different in case the old side seals are really glued in or so.
Robotsan
Club Member
Thanks, I'll give it a go then.
Robotsan
Club Member
Just had a look. It doesn't look the rear main cap part of the block has room to slide out with the gearbox still attached? It would certainly limit the amount of wiggling you could do!
And here's what I see when looking at the side seals:
From what I've seen online (and in the videos I posted above), the side seals have a separate metal shim that goes down the outside side of the rubber seals.
The top one in this pic appears to have the metal pin at the top, or the outside, closer to the side of the car, which I presume to be correct.
The other one though, appears to have it's pin on the inside - closer to the centre of the car.
No real way of knowing whether they have been contributing to the oil leak, but also they are not 100% flush.
The only place I could see oil actually coming from was from one of the bolts around 2/3 towards the rear, on the right hand side of the sump - the lower side. It could easily have been flowing / blowing backwards and then leaking down the back.
And here's what I see when looking at the side seals:
From what I've seen online (and in the videos I posted above), the side seals have a separate metal shim that goes down the outside side of the rubber seals.
The top one in this pic appears to have the metal pin at the top, or the outside, closer to the side of the car, which I presume to be correct.
The other one though, appears to have it's pin on the inside - closer to the centre of the car.
No real way of knowing whether they have been contributing to the oil leak, but also they are not 100% flush.
The only place I could see oil actually coming from was from one of the bolts around 2/3 towards the rear, on the right hand side of the sump - the lower side. It could easily have been flowing / blowing backwards and then leaking down the back.
Robotsan
Club Member
Also, I think my pan lip is bent. When using a metal ruler across the holes from one side to the other, there's a gap when the ruler is flush against one side of the lip:
And now the same place, but with the ruler flush down on this side..
I don't have the skills or tools to fix this, so I think I'm going to have to find someone who can.
And now the same place, but with the ruler flush down on this side..
I don't have the skills or tools to fix this, so I think I'm going to have to find someone who can.
If it wasn't leaking from there before, it won't leak there when you put it back on. You only need a complete ring of firm contact through the gasket, you don't have to have all the gasket under the raised area of the mating ridge compressed.
It will come (I think!) off without taking the box off. You can do it. You'll get fleeced if you try to get someone else to do it.
Robotsan
Club Member
It was leaking from there.
Robotsan
Club Member
Ok .. I'll take a brave pill and try it tomorrow.