Banshee's Road to Roadworthiness

Banshee_240Z

Banshee_240Z

Club Member
Hi All

As some of you know I have recently moved from the US and have brought my 1972 240Z with me, it finally arrived about 2 weeks ago. I’ve owned it for almost 10 years now and usually follow the cycle of driving it, taking it apart to fix/improve things, putting it together in time for Monterey Car Week, then taking it apart again. I finally bit the bullet and did a ton of the work I’ve been putting off right before moving (Driver dogleg and floor rust repair, mounting my new Cobra seats and new carpet, wiring clean-up + wiring spotlights, finishing my composite panels, adding calipers for handbrake, etc.)

I didn’t get everything on my list done in time so there are still some things left before I can just enjoy it for a while (And then take it all apart again later!)

I’m submitting everything for registration to the DVLA today, so I have a couple of weeks to get everything done. Appreciate any input or feedback (Especially when it comes to wiring, not my strong suit at all) and I’m looking forward to meeting some fellow Z owners this summer!

High priority
  • Replace headlight switch (I have a freshly rebuilt one)
  • Headlight relays so new switch doesn’t also burn out
  • Adjust hand-brake (I designed my own rear caliper mounts around Wilwood MC4 calipers but they don’t engage enough when the hand-brake lever is fully up)
  • Fix side mirror positioning so I can actually see out of them
  • Front plate mounts (Never ran a front plate in the States)
  • Better solution for throttle cable (Had the cable end come loose on a test drive—not fun)
Low priority
  • Mount intake plenum again
  • Some kind of air filter solution
  • Make horn work with quick release wheel (I can connect it but then have to disconnect to use the QR so it’s not a good solution)
  • Fab mounts for new grill
  • Better headrest solution
  • Finish front brake ducting
Future
  • Mount Datsun Competition oil pan
  • Install Gleason Torsen LSD
  • More dyno tuning

IMG_6769.jpg
 
Banshee_240Z

Banshee_240Z

Club Member
@Makesy Yes that's a good point, anything to slow the inevitable rusting process. I have some Lanoguard to apply to the underside of my Landcruiser, if I'm happy with how that goes on I may apply to the Z as well. I'm also familiar with Waxoyl so open to doing that as well.

I've repaired the visible rust but as with these cars I'm sure it's lurking everywhere (Despite being a California car!). Just need to prevent it turning into proper rot.

Unfortunately the wiring has been messed with quite a bit over the years (Under the previous owner it once had 2 sets of spotlights and an aftermarket stereo all spliced in. All of that's gone now and I have my 1 set of spotlights on a completely different circuit). I'll take a look at that diagram and try to make sense of what I've got. I had started to understand all of the weirdness but I haven't touched it in 6 months so it's all gone now 😂
 
Makesy

Makesy

Club Member
Waxoyl is an option though I understand there are better products available.

@richiep made a good post about waxoyl alternatives here which stuck in my memory:

Rust prevention on interior panels

I've begun to strip the interior of my 73' 240z and there is surface rust and luckily not much welding required! I've had to strip off all the old paint, primer and I'd guess old bedliner to get it back to bare metal. I was curious as to what people can recommend to reseal the exposed metals...
zclub.net zclub.net

Personally I have just purchased some Buzzweld cavity paint as the mx5 community rave about their products, particularly one guy who strips and reseals the undersides of cars for a living. I'll be using it across 2 cars


And I absolutely feel your pain on inheriting butchered wiring. My red car is made up of 3 different Datsuns, along with a plethora of wiring modifications for good measure. As a consequence, my dash lights and rear markers stopped working and I've got no idea why!
 
Banshee_240Z

Banshee_240Z

Club Member
@Makesy Thanks for the info! I'll look into those products. Dinitrol sounds familiar, I think I have heard of that one before.

Funny enough I've had the exact same thing happen to me! I fiddled with the dash light dimmer knob (Right underneath the dash by the tacho) and that "fixed" it... not a real fix but it's saved me in the past 😂
 
Makesy

Makesy

Club Member
Banshee_240Z said:
@Makesy Thanks for the info! I'll look into those products. Dinitrol sounds familiar, I think I have heard of that one before.

Funny enough I've had the exact same thing happen to me! I fiddled with the dash light dimmer knob (Right underneath the dash by the tacho) and that "fixed" it... not a real fix but it's saved me in the past 😂
Click to expand...

I might just give that a go! Cheers!
 
Robotsan

Robotsan

Club Member
Banshee_240Z said:
@Makesy Thanks for the info! I'll look into those products. Dinitrol sounds familiar, I think I have heard of that one before.

Funny enough I've had the exact same thing happen to me! I fiddled with the dash light dimmer knob (Right underneath the dash by the tacho) and that "fixed" it... not a real fix but it's saved me in the past 😂
Click to expand...

Dinitrol is excellent. I wouldn't use Waxoyl anymore, it's so messy.

Dinitrol 4941 is like a black hard waxy finish for going over anything - so you can clean your existing underseal (as long as it's not cracked) and spray it over it, and over suspension components, ARB etc. You can't paint over it though.

Then 445 and 447 are a more rubberised finish, better as stone chip as the stones should bounce off. So better in the wheel arches. They're both over paintable.

I've just done the front end of mine with 447: https://www.instagram.com/p/C2kwxlzs8_z/?igsh=MWR2eW8wemlrc3J6Ng==
 
Banshee_240Z

Banshee_240Z

Club Member
Robotsan said:
Dinitrol is excellent. I wouldn't use Waxoyl anymore, it's so messy.

Dinitrol 4941 is like a black hard waxy finish for going over anything - so you can clean your existing underseal (as long as it's not cracked) and spray it over it, and over suspension components, ARB etc. You can't paint over it though.

Then 445 and 447 are a more rubberised finish, better as stone chip as the stones should bounce off. So better in the wheel arches. They're both over paintable.

I've just done the front end of mine with 447: https://www.instagram.com/p/C2kwxlzs8_z/?igsh=MWR2eW8wemlrc3J6Ng==
Click to expand...
Hmmm I might order some of the 4941 then. There is some underseal under the car and it's in decent shape. Would also be nice to put it on some of the suspension components, I noticed a while ago the zinc finish on my DP Racing tie-rod ends was starting to oxidize a bit. Thanks for the advice!
 
Banshee_240Z

Banshee_240Z

Club Member
Also I posted all my documents yesterday to the DVLA. Just checked tracking and it's out for delivery today. Fingers crossed everything goes well!
 
Robotsan

Robotsan

Club Member
Banshee_240Z said:
Hmmm I might order some of the 4941 then. There is some underseal under the car and it's in decent shape. Would also be nice to put it on some of the suspension components, I noticed a while ago the zinc finish on my DP Racing tie-rod ends was starting to oxidize a bit. Thanks for the advice!
Click to expand...

No worries! I'm not sure you'd want to spray it over nice zinc plated stuff though. I'd use a non permanent waxy product like Lanoguard (which I think you already have?) or Bilt Hamber's Dynax UC (a similar clearish wax).

Those Dinitrol products are much more permanent.
 
Banshee_240Z

Banshee_240Z

Club Member
Ahh I see, I think I’m currently at the non-permanent stage. Just something to spray/wipe down everything to give it a fighting chance. Could just use WD40 if I’m feeling cheap lol. Some day I’ll need to properly strip it down and re-coat it but that’s for the future.
 
Robotsan

Robotsan

Club Member
Banshee_240Z said:
Ahh I see, I think I’m currently at the non-permanent stage. Just something to spray/wipe down everything to give it a fighting chance. Could just use WD40 if I’m feeling cheap lol. Some day I’ll need to properly strip it down and re-coat it but that’s for the future.
Click to expand...

Yeah in that case definitely go with one of the clear ones, Lanoguard or Dynax UC. If you've got the Lano just spray that all over the underside and suspension and you'll be good :)
 
Banshee_240Z

Banshee_240Z

Club Member
Alrighty little bit done. Restored headlight switch is in and tested, headlights work again!

Also swapped out the little flat-head screw on the throttle cable end for allen-head so I can actually tighten them down. Need to check if the throttle pedal stop is in the right position too. Need to order some more bike ferrules to stop the fraying.

IMG_5982.jpegIMG_5976.jpeg
 
Banshee_240Z

Banshee_240Z

Club Member
Made this really janky stand-off for my mirror so I can actually see out of it now! Not my best work since I no longer have a lot of my tools and materials but it is functional.

I will re-do it at some point for sure. Didn’t matter too much in the States but I actually need my right mirror here lol

IMG_6078.jpeg

IMG_6079.jpeg
 
Banshee_240Z

Banshee_240Z

Club Member
Alrighty question regarding the relay mod and headlight wiring (And forgive my ignorance, wiring is really not my strong suit).

As I understand on the stock circuit the headlights switch ground between hi beam and lo beam. So looking at the headlight connector it would be two grounds and one power.

When I replaced my headlights and cleaned up some of the wiring I noted that on mine the one wire was ground and I got power to the lo beam or high beam wires (Depending on the switch position). I think this is consistent with standard H4 layout (I installed new headlights but the car did have H4 bulbs before)

Does that mean the headlight wiring has been altered? I don't believe it has the relay mod already (Haven't found any relays, can't hear any clicking when switching, and headlights dim when cranking/are brighter when car is running so not getting full 12V)

Hope this all makes sense. I can do basic wiring but I'm still learning when it comes to diagnosing or any real wiring.
 
Banshee_240Z

Banshee_240Z

Club Member
Ah and I guess the whole reason I'm asking is to understand if I can still follow the available diagrams for adding the relay or would have to do something different.
 
MCBladeRun

MCBladeRun

Club Member
So I started here:


You may need to understand a little bit about the wiring diagram that closely matches your vehicle (guessing 240z, but sometimes the USA isn't the same as a UK)

Once you've understood the earthing arrangement and the low/hi wires, throw a volt-meter to confirm it hasn't been modified in anyway by any previous owners.

You can buy relay kits if you're not confident on building your own of course, and as always, the Zclub loves to help 👍
 
Rob Gaskin

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Banshee_240Z said:
Alrighty question regarding the relay mod and headlight wiring (And forgive my ignorance, wiring is really not my strong suit).

As I understand on the stock circuit the headlights switch ground between hi beam and lo beam. So looking at the headlight connector it would be two grounds and one power.

When I replaced my headlights and cleaned up some of the wiring I noted that on mine the one wire was ground and I got power to the lo beam or high beam wires (Depending on the switch position). I think this is consistent with standard H4 layout (I installed new headlights but the car did have H4 bulbs before)

Does that mean the headlight wiring has been altered? I don't believe it has the relay mod already (Haven't found any relays, can't hear any clicking when switching, and headlights dim when cranking/are brighter when car is running so not getting full 12V)

Hope this all makes sense. I can do basic wiring but I'm still learning when it comes to diagnosing or any real wiring.
Click to expand...
Yes, I would say that your wiring has been altered.
 
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