Advice on this 240z please

dangerZone

Forum User
Hi all. I'm looking at this 240Z and was wondering if anyone - as far as possible - could let me know if it's a good'n or a bad'n. I'm no expert hence asking here. Many thanks.
 

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And a few more ...
 

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I presume you can’t see the car in person … it’s so difficult to comment really on something like this. It looks as though it’s been standing a long time which is fine if it’s been protected from the elements on hard standing and not in foot-long grass outside etc. but then again it wouldn’t even be in one piece if it had. Looks like it’s been undersealed which is good but the camera has gone in on some areas so much it’s difficult to tell which area you’re looking at. Which country is the car in and how much is it?
 
Hi Mike. Thanks for the reply. Apparently its been in a garage since 2008. Was owned by a body shop foreman in the states. The last 6 photos in my last message are the areas under the seats/footwells.
 
look like a solid US car the factory underseal will be toast but dont worry good chance the metal is solid . try to get some photo of the inside floor pan and inner wings .chris
 
I presume you can’t see the car in person … it’s so difficult to comment really on something like this. It looks as though it’s been standing a long time which is fine if it’s been protected from the elements on hard standing and not in foot-long grass outside etc. but then again it wouldn’t even be in one piece if it had. Looks like it’s been undersealed which is good but the camera has gone in on some areas so much it’s difficult to tell which area you’re looking at. Which country is the car in and how much is it?

Interesting you said it looks like its been undersealed at some point. As I said, I'm no expert and the seller didn't state this.
 
I wouldn’t necessarily say it was poor - but definitely a project car for complete restoration rather than something that can be bought with the expectation of driving after a few quick recommissioning jobs. It has had some form of undercoating applied but with it all flaking off and lifting, that would need a full stripping to check for nasties.

Depends on what you are looking for, plans etc.
 
Hi richie. Thanks. I want to convert it to manual and install a VQ35HR. I'll overhaul the entire brake system, suspension, exhaust, diff, cv axles, everything else that I can't save. I'm not after a quick fix up. Just want a decent example to to a proper resto on. And from what I've seen online over the past couple years, this example is no where near as bad as some and actually better than a lot of so called west coast cars.
 
I want to convert it to manual and install a VQ35HR. I'll overhaul the entire brake system, suspension, exhaust, diff, cv axles, everything else that I can't save. I'm not after a quick fix up. Just want a decent example to to a proper resto on.

It looks like a candidate for a complete - and I mean *complete* - shell-up rebuild. As has been pointed out, it has been undersealed at some point in the distant past and when that gets old that can tend to trap dampness is certain conditions. It will have surface rust *inside* the seams and structural members too.

It would need all the panels off, all the components, ALL the paint, sound-deadener/Tar mat stripped off and then soda/media blasted (personally I don't think chemical dipping is the way to go) and then start from 'Part Number One' as if building a full-size kit.

I would imagine you'll be wanting to beef the body structure up somewhat for a VQ35HR conversion, so a total strip-down is pretty much inevitable anyway?
 
It looks like a candidate for a complete - and I mean *complete* - shell-up rebuild. As has been pointed out, it has been undersealed at some point in the distant past and when that gets old that can tend to trap dampness is certain conditions. It will have surface rust *inside* the seams and structural members too.

It would need all the panels off, all the components, ALL the paint, sound-deadener/Tar mat stripped off and then soda/media blasted (personally I don't think chemical dipping is the way to go) and then start from 'Part Number One' as if building a full-size kit.

I would imagine you'll be wanting to beef the body structure up somewhat for a VQ35HR conversion, so a total strip-down is pretty much inevitable anyway?


Thank you and yes to I would be strengthening the structure. Appreciate the tip on avoiding chemical dip. In your experience do you think this car looks particularly bad though?
 
I haven't seen anything really bad on your pictures but they are very localised. It's very dry underneath which is a good thing. More Pics?

The big question is 'how much is it'?
 
I haven't seen anything really bad on your pictures but they are very localised. It's very dry underneath which is a good thing. More Pics?

The big question is 'how much is it'?

How much do you reckon?! Bearing in mind it's an automatic? As I said earlier, it was owned by a body shop foreman from mid 90s through to 2008 (where he professionally resprayed it after knocking out some filler and knocking the body back the old fashioned way in the middle of a planned restoration). Since 2008, its sat in his garage.

No more pictures unfortunately
 
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How much do you reckon?! Bearing in mind it's an automatic? As I said earlier, it was owned by a body shop foreman from mid 90s through to 2008 (where he professionally resprayed it after knocking out some filler and knocking the body back the old fashioned way in the middle of a planned restoration). Since 2008, its sat in his garage.

No more pictures unfortunately
I can't see enough of it to gauge its value. Interior, engine a runner? Sunroof? Etc.
 
I can't see enough of it to gauge its value. Interior, engine a runner? Sunroof? Etc.

It's a non runner but been told it may be a blocked fuel line. Doesn't bother me considering the plan. No sunroof.
 

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Would be nice to see it retain the butterscotch interior - although the original exterior colour wouldn’t have been red back in the day.

14 thousand dollars …
 
That looks pretty decent overall. Still needs significant attention to the underside given the previous photos, but looks more promising in topside and interior cosmetics than I'd thought. It's level of completeness and decent enough condition of all parts present would make a restoration easier.

I dig the butterscotch interior too! As the engine bay shows, the car was originally metallic brown, which would jive with the interior. Personally, I really like that colour combo. Before buying my project, I was seriously tempted by a brown, original, late-73 US 260Z that was in excellent original condition. Would've totally undermined my project plans as I wouldn't have wanted to change too much, but it would've been on the road a lot quicker!
 
My 2 cents from Cali.......

Need to find someone you can trust to put eyes on the car and a video as well.......and probably 200 pics.

Looks like a 73 from the front bumper.

A brown car painted re-sale red is suspect to start with....non running and auto box hurts as well.

I have bought a lot of Z cars and my thought on price is this:
IF little to no rust and no previous accident damage I would say $5,000 to $8,000 at the outside. Another $2,000 for transport and shipping across the pond.
IF it has rusty floors or panels or rear hatch or accident damage not repaired correctly I would pass.

Mike
 
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