240z upgrading the std ignition system

[Carl Platel]

Hello, just wondering if someone could advise me please Im looking for the very best long term replacement for the original points based ignition system.
I currently have no spark from the coil I’ve replaced the condenser & coil to no avail . I’m thinking of replacing the lot with something electronic in the hope that will fix the problem and prove more reliable in the future
any pointers would be most welcome
Cheers Carl

 

[240L31]

Hey Carl, I'd go either for a 280zx distributor or a 123ignition unit. Both are excellent upgrades, the 123ignition requires a bit more tinkering I'd say.

 

[Albrecht]

Simplest solution - and one I'd personally recommend as I used for years on a daily-driver 240Z - is LUMENITION OPTRONIC conversion.

Lumenition - AUTOCAR

Lumenition, Micro Dynamics Newtronic product information application lists faq guides installation instructions

autocar-electrical.co.uk

Buy the 'Standard Optronic' kit plus the FK637 fitting kit: http://autocar-electrical.co.uk/products/optronic-ignitions/optronic-fitting-kits/fk637

 

[Carl Platel]

Thanks so much it’s still a bit of a mine field but it’s great to get some pointers
Happy days Carl

 

[adrianf240z]

Hello, just wondering if someone could advise me please Im looking for the very best long term replacement for the original points based ignition system.
I currently have no spark from the coil I’ve replaced the condenser & coil to no avail . I’m thinking of replacing the lot with something electronic in the hope that will fix the problem and prove more reliable in the future
any pointers would be most welcome
Cheers Carl

 

[adrianf240z]

The 280zx electronic distributor and coil fits straight in. Slight wiring mod needed. You will neeed to remove the ballast resistor, situated below the coil, if you do this connect the two wires together or your rev counter wont work. Adrian

 

[AliK]

The 280zx electronic distributor and coil fits straight in. Slight wiring mod needed. You will neeed to remove the ballast resistor, situated below the coil, if you do this connect the two wires together or your rev counter wont work. Adrian

I believe you also need the base from the 280zx dizzy.

As for ballast resistor, you can only remove it if your coil is designed to work without one, otherwise you over-volt / over-heat a coil requiring external ballast.

My concern is why you’re not getting spark in the first instance. Even with points, you “should” get spark even if not stable.

Some dumb Qs follow:
- Have you checked the power to the +ve terminal on the coil? It should read 12v when cranking.

- Have you checked the impedance / continuity through the ballast resistor? They are very prone to failure / breaks. The ballast is bypassed by the ignition key when cranking to give you a “hotter” spark while starting. Could there be a problem in the ignition switch circuit? Have you checked / buzzed that out to eliminate it?

On one occasion, I ran a direct 12v cable (fused of course) from the battery to the coil +ve to bypass all other old wiring. Then cranked and started the car. The fuse is important because:

1. You don’t want a car-b-q if you short that wire

2. The only way to stop the engine would be to pull the fuse

Worth a try?

- is the distributor ground a good one? And does it have continuity back to the coil when circuit is closed?

- is the “not getting spark” at the spark plugs? Or is the coil output to dizzy just not firing?

- is it safe to assume you’ve replaced the points and gapped them? So do you see them opening and closing when the cam inside the dizzy rotates?

Please don’t feel the need to respond to the above - it’s just food for thought more than anything.

Going electronic dizzy (or opto conversion on existing one) is one of the best and most noticeable upgrades on our engines. But I would hate it if you spent time and money on it, only to discover your have other issues upstream.

Keep us posted.