Triple Webers and manifold going for a song!

T

tch911

Well-Known Forum User
I'll probably get told off for posting this but feel that you should all have the opportunity of joining the Weber club.

Triple Webers 40 and Manifold for 240,260Z in great nick with a rebuild kit included as well.

Currently on £255 and ends at 8pm on the 13th July, TODAY.

I paid over a £1,000 for mine. Harrumph:( !!!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Datsun-240Z-260Z-Triple-Webber-Carbs-and-Manifold_W0QQitemZ120006156949QQihZ002QQcategoryZ122159QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

PS - Webmasters, I have nothing to do with the sale of these, I just think it's too good a bargain to miss!
 
Well, i have just invested in the webers,dont tell the wife,any info on the headwork req. for the winter rebuild? I have aquired a six branch and 280 dizzy and coil so far.Do you need anything else between the fuel pump to the carbs?
 
Talk to Dave Jarman h knows all there is to know about them. My 2.8 has tripples, skimmed n42 head, 280 dizzy, 6b manifold, djr360 cam and it pulls well low down and above 3000 it goes crazy!
 
You got an absolute steal there even if they do need a bit of a strip down.

If you fit the triples and a six branch then you'll up the power a bit and up the fuel consumption a fair stack, although these are only 40's rather than the thirsty 45's.

You're best bet is to fit a Hot Cam like a Piper 274 which is a stage 2 cam with fantastic mid-range torque. I tried a 285 but it was too cammy with nothing until about 5,000 and then it goes nuts until about 7,000, a full on stage 3 conversion.

It's worth fitting an oil-spray bar too, not expensive at all.

Decent head work costs a whole stack of money, like about a £1000. I have a Dave Jarman head recently rebuilt by Duncan at Z farm, bit of a port, bit of a polish but on a 2.8 with 40's and a six branch should be good for over 200 bhp.

It's key with Webers to have them set-up, preferably once a year, on a rolling road. They do go off tune and the difference between set up and not set up is truly astonishing.

Enjoy the noise!
 
They call it the sub-model number - it's near the bit that says DCOE from memory.

The main differences are the idle progression holes and are part of the main housing.


Some sub-models are compatable with others, some or not - sorry I don't know which, you'll need to speak to a specialist.
 
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tch911 said:
but on a 2.8 with 40's and a six branch should be good for over 200 bhp.
Click to expand...

...so roughly...(roughly) how much BHP do you think I have??

2.8 with good compression (160 psi)
280zx ignition
facet pump and filter king
performance manifold and exhaust
triple dellorto 40's

..not quite right yet but goes like a bad swear word!

Si
 
VERTEMATIDOG said:
Thanks for the info, do you need an electric pump or stick to the mechanical?
Click to expand...

facet with filter king good...ebay bargains good...mike feeney even better! ...PM him...

si
 
qunvat said:
...so roughly...(roughly) how much BHP do you think I have??

2.8 with good compression (160 psi)
280zx ignition
facet pump and filter king
performance manifold and exhaust
triple dellorto 40's

..not quite right yet but goes like a bad swear word!

Si
Click to expand...

With a stock cam, probably not much more than standard horse power.......160 ???..................and a biggger fuel bill.
 
I would agree with Rob on this one, performance isnt about how many goodies you can strap to your car, its about getting them all to work together and compliment each other.

Take HP figures with a pinch of salt anyway, unless you are seriously into engine performance/tuning... as long as the car drives well, feels strong and you are happy, the numbers are meaningless and have little value.
 
SKiddell said:
I would agree with Rob on this one, performance isnt about how many goodies you can strap to your car, its about getting them all to work together and compliment each other.

Take HP figures with a pinch of salt anyway, unless you are seriously into engine performance/tuning... as long as the car drives well, feels strong and you are happy, the numbers are meaningless and have little value.
Click to expand...

good point my friend...it goes better and with a deal more uumpph than before (with very good SU's) ..though it was good then it's got roughly 15% more gunbbings to it now...

Having had a 180 HP tripled 260 I'd say it's close to that poss a little less but more than the stock for sure..

will get some head work done one day when I've got the ££...would you (in terms of affordability) have:

Head skimmed?
Valves ported?
New cam?
Anything else?

...all would be great but it's bit by bit for me money wise..

Si
 
I think that since you would require to remove the head, have it all done in one go. I know you might not afford it, but it will be a bit of false economy to say, have the head skimmed, put it back on, then take it off to do something else. You would have the cost of new head bolts each time, unless you have a set of ARP studs for starters. To some extent, larger valves/ported/new cam are all related to each other.

Si, did you make sure the carb. manifold was truely flat? Do the ports from the manifold match up with the head? Don't be surprised to find they don't (mine did not), so some of your air/fuel mixture has slammed into the outside of the head rather than going down port. The cheapest way to make the car run better.

Just my thoughts....
Ian
 
Ian Patmore said:
Si, did you make sure the carb. manifold was truely flat? Do the ports from the manifold match up with the head? Don't be surprised to find they don't (mine did not), so some of your air/fuel mixture has slammed into the outside of the head rather than going down port. The cheapest way to make the car run better.

Just my thoughts....
Ian
Click to expand...

Cheers Ian
Yes the ports were very slightly out so I did some Simon Adams jiggery pokery.....at first I had an air leak so I re did it all and using my trusty hose pipe to ear technique I cant hear any obvious hissing.

Another thought....one carb, though all 3 have the same jets etc is sucking LESS than the other 2......I've had to use the idle screws to balance them which of course means my butterflies are now slightly out with each other.

This of course will lead to a slight loss of power....carb 1 butterflies open at 85 degrees on full throttle, carb 2, 95 (5 over) and 3 is 80 degs.

Cant think of any other way as they obviously need to suck the same ...

Out for a spin now to see if I can get rid of the popping at the exhaust (rich mixture somewhere me thinks...)

Si
 
Your best best is to have them professionally set up on a rolling road by someone that knows webers. Just getting them to stop popping is not really enough.
 
tch911 said:
Your best best is to have them professionally set up on a rolling road by someone that knows webers. Just getting them to stop popping is not really enough.
Click to expand...

Aye...thats the plan as soon as I got the ££....BUT I want to get them 'physically' right B4 I take them for that, otherwise I'll be throwing money down't drain...

They're Dellorto's.....40's

Cheers,Si
 
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