Broken heated rear window SOLUTION!

RIDDLER

Well-Known Forum User
If you own a 240Z or a 260Z, chances are your heated rear window doesn't work. Well I may have a solution!

The one in my 260 doesn't work - broken elements I think. You cannot buy new windows anywhere, and if you get a second hand one, that almost certainly won't work either (tried it!).

Yes, you can buy silver conductive paint and try and touch in the lines, but it is nigh on impossible to do and looks a right bloody mess as the lines on the car are originally orange, not silver. Tried it - gave up!

So here is my solution.

I saw advertised on Maplins website a little in-car fan heater that you plug into the cigarette lighter. (Link follows for this later).

It occurred to me that if I could mount this near the rear window, it might work to clear it.

The heater is normally only £9.99 but currently on offer at just £4.99, so I bought one. It comes on a little stand with an adjustable ball joint so you can angle it how you wish. The stand can be fixed to the car using two screws provided, or with a double side sticky velcro pad also provided.

The heater has two settings - FAN (when it blows a quite strong stream of cool air) or HEAT (when it blows a slower stream of very warm air).

I found I could easily mount it on the centre of the bottom of the rear tailgate using one of the existing screw holes which hold on the vinyl pad that is there. I didn't use the second screwhole on the stand - just popped in the sticky pad to secure it.

I then angled the little heater to point directly up onto the rear window and set it on HEAT.

Not wanting to have to keep plugging it into the cig lighter (it will just reach), I chopped off the cig lighter plug. It is fed by two wires. I bought a couple of little spade connectors, then connected one wire to one of the leads feeding the heated rear window, and the other to the second lead feeding the rear window.

Note - you have to get it the right way round. The heater wire that has the 15amp fuse half way along it needs to be connected to the offside heated rear window lead. Do it the other way and the heater won't work.

The whole thing took me about 20 minutes to do and I am no electrician!

Now, when I switch on the 'rear defogger' switch the little heater comes on and starts blowing warm air onto the rear screen.

The heater looks very neat, cannot even be seen from outside the car, and all the wires to it can be very easily run around the tailgate out of sight (I used double-sided sticky tape to secure them).

So the big question is, does it work?

Well I've been quite happy with it. When the back window is fogged up and you switch it on, after about a minute you get a small oval patch of clear glass that starts to form in the centre of the screen. This you can see through quite well.

Then as the heat starts to rise and build up in the roof space, the screen starts to slowly clear from the top downwards. After 10 minutes, I have found most of the screen is clear.

Obviously, it will never be as good as a properly-functioning heated rear window, but it is a cheap solution and better than nothing!

Yes, I know people say you can just wind down the driver's window and that will eventually clear it, but the point is that windows generally steam up when it is either pouring with rain or freezing cold - just when you DON'T want to be driving with the window down.

Here is the link to the Maplin heater, and also to another similar one I have seen on ebay that may even be better.

Then below are several pictures showing how I have fitted the rear window heater to my car.

If you decide to try it, good luck!

In-Car Ceramic Heater : Accessories : Maplin Electronics

Sakura 12 VOLT 2-IN-1 IN CAR HEATER & DEMISTER FAN | eBay
 

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You sir, are a genius!

I've been thinking about what to do about the broken rear heater, this looks like the answer. And can't go wrong for £5 either :)
 
No - and of course it is quite reversible as you are just using the existing defogger switch and the existing leads to the back window.
 
I have often used the same method for defrosting front screens too. On More Modern Cars I may add.

(They don't make em like they used to)

Never thought about using the existing wiring tho, so thanks :)
 
Not as quick and easy or as cheap as maplin heater:thumbs:[well spotted,going to get a couple of those for that price],but if you want an alternative,but not as easily reversible i purchased one of these complete kits a while ago for another vehicle,no probs,they cost more and if you are prepared for the messing about work sound.Some uk kit car companies sell similar for about 30 quid. Frost Fighter 2600 Clear View Defrosters
 
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Amazing! I searched high and low for something like that without success, As you say, more costly and more involved than my solution, but probably will be more effective. So it boils down to what you want!
 
By the way, did think about buying two of the heaters and mounting them either side of the window to double the clearing power, but didn't think the fusebox would handle it, as they each need 15amps to put out 150 watts of heat. One heater draws no more power than the original heated rear window, but two might overload the circuit - probably needs an electrician to answer that one.
 
Wasn't going to do anything like doubling up or anything fancy, just getting two because they're so cheap and i will always end up using one for some project and other in the z(front screen) which has non standard oversized wiring fitted throughout anyways(very little voltage drop).
 
One other point - by wiring it to the defogger switch this also ensures that you always have a reminder that it is on (the big warning light), and it also means that when you turn off the ignition it also turns it off so it can't be left on by mistake and overheat. When I plugged it into the cig lighter I noticed that even with the ignition off, the heater stayed on which struck me as being quite dangerous.
 
One other point - by wiring it to the defogger switch this also ensures that you always have a reminder that it is on (the big warning light), and it also means that when you turn off the ignition it also turns it off so it can't be left on by mistake and overheat. When I plugged it into the cig lighter I noticed that even with the ignition off, the heater stayed on which struck me as being quite dangerous.

Yep, left my SatNav on a few times too because of this!

Your rear screen solution has given me a thought about my windscreen which I struggle to demist. I have been planning to take my heater unit out to save a lot of weight and was going to divert the 'air-tube' fresh air to my face vents. However demisting in winter and forced cold air in summer would still be a problem. Your fan idea might suffice.
 
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Well good luck. It is not a very powerful fan - certainly not when on the heat setting - but for the price you could mount it on the dash with the sticky pad, plug it into the cig lighter, and give it a try.
It seems to work on the rear screen because it is mounted so close to the glass and because the heat then builds up in the rear of the car which has a drying effect. How well it would work on a windscreen I don't know.
 
Bought one of these a few weeks ago and got round to fitting it this afternoon, but i've got a problem. Wired it up (the correct way round) and it doesn't work. Thinking the fan might be faulty took it off and tried it directly onto the battery - worked fine. Then put a test lamp onto the rear window terminals and it lit up OK, but then connecting up either of the fan cables (doesn't matter which) the power disappears, the illuuminated switch goes out, and the power will only come back by switching the heated rear window switch off and then back on again. With just the test lamp connected it will stop lit all the time. Can anyone throw any light on this?
 
Bought one of these a few weeks ago and got round to fitting it this afternoon, but i've got a problem. Wired it up (the correct way round) and it doesn't work. Thinking the fan might be faulty took it off and tried it directly onto the battery - worked fine. Then put a test lamp onto the rear window terminals and it lit up OK, but then connecting up either of the fan cables (doesn't matter which) the power disappears, the illuuminated switch goes out, and the power will only come back by switching the heated rear window switch off and then back on again. With just the test lamp connected it will stop lit all the time. Can anyone throw any light on this?

Did you try it in the cigarette lighter first? Sounds like it is somehow overloading the heated rear window circuit, but if that was the case it would blow the fuse which it clearly isn't doing. I trust you havechecked the car's heated rear window fuse AND the fuse that is on the wire for the fan heater? Had no problems with mine so it SHOULD work!
 
Just talked to a friend of mine who knows a little about electrics and he says the following:

My guess( without looking at a wiring diagram) is that it is a faulty relay. The original window heater would have drawn a significant current and to avoid having a very "heavy" switch on the dash, the current to the heater would have been switched on and off by a relay, which in turn was operated by the dashboard switch. It's possible that this relay also acts like a trip switch, such as you may have on your domestic fuseboard, and the fault is that it's tripping out on too low a current.
 
Did you try it in the cigarette lighter first? Sounds like it is somehow overloading the heated rear window circuit, but if that was the case it would blow the fuse which it clearly isn't doing. I trust you havechecked the car's heated rear window fuse AND the fuse that is on the wire for the fan heater? Had no problems with mine so it SHOULD work!
Connected it direct to the battery and it works fine. There are no fuses blown. Can't imagine this little unit draws more power than the proper HRW, especially with the heat turned off and just trying to run the fan only, and then a test light across the HRW terminals stays on. You're absolutely right Riddler, it should work, but it doesn't, and I can't think of a reason why not
 
Just talked to a friend of mine who knows a little about electrics and he says the following:

My guess( without looking at a wiring diagram) is that it is a faulty relay. The original window heater would have drawn a significant current and to avoid having a very "heavy" switch on the dash, the current to the heater would have been switched on and off by a relay, which in turn was operated by the dashboard switch. It's possible that this relay also acts like a trip switch, such as you may have on your domestic fuseboard, and the fault is that it's tripping out on too low a current.
Thanks Riddler, only just noticed your second post, will check the wiring diagram. Only thing is if it trips out because of a low current why does a test light stay on?
 
Maybe the answer is to take it to any good auto electrician who will probably work it out - though it will of course add to the cost! But it is worth it, because mine has been much better than before when I could never see a thing out of the back window! Good luck.
 
One other thought - I take it you bought 'female' spade connectors to put on the wires from the fan heater to then connect to the 'male' connections on the HRW terminals. Are the terminals all nice and clean so they are making a good connection?
 
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