240z Resto

That great news. I can't wait until I'm in that position. What was the issue?

More importantly, how many meters did you drive? [emoji1787]
 
Hi,

I've only just seen your thread, this post is purely academic now as it looks like you have solved your poor running issue.

In the first pic you posted of your engine bay i noticed one of the take offs on the intake manifold is venting to atmosphere, this would cause you the poor running.

When you are using an Air Flow Meter it is especially important to not have any leaks. Even the oil cap off or the dipstick not in its place properly will cause poor running.
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Just seen a few of these posts! I must have missed them! Thank you all for your kind comments and support!

That great news. I can't wait until I'm in that position. What was the issue?

More importantly, how many meters did you drive? [emoji1787]

Since getting her running I must have moved at most 20 metres, but it feels like progress!

Embarrassingly, there was a combination of poor ignition timing (because I didn't really know what I was looking at and also I think my dizzy cap is on the wrong way round) and being out of fuel (because my fuel sender isn't functioning correctly)

Unfortunately, she's drinking like a fish and I think I managed to kill my fuel pump by accidentally running it dry for too long.

I've begun replacing the pump, and re-configuring the hoses from the tank, as I'd previously done it horribly inefficiently.

Since lockdown I have also:

MASSIVELY tidied up my garage
Stored all my Z parts in racking as opposed on on top of my MX-5!
Started to replace the locks on the doors - I still can't get them to operate properly and suspect this job will be a pain
Tided the engine bay up a little

I'll post some pictures soon

As previously mentioned, this project was as much about learning how to maintain the car as well as getting it running. 18 month ago I recall very nervously replacing the fuel pump over several evenings, terrified of breaking something. It's satisfying to now be able to comfortably do this job in a few hours!
 
I confess...I spoke too soon when I said I replaced the pump in a couple of hours. All was going swimmingly until one of my crimps gave way, which then left me tackling a stripped nut on the world's tiniest terminal, with no space to manoeuvre a spanner!

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I ended up removing the pump and with a bit of bodgery (crimps, super glue to hold the nut down and electrical tape to keep the crimp clean, followed by a layer of spray-on electrical tape to keep water away from the terminals), got everything placed where it should be.

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Having previously run the 10mm feed from the tank to a step down fitting to make it 8mm, then through a pre filter, before meeting the vertically place pump, it would take the pump a good while to pick up pressure. Old system pic:

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Given that my tank was renu'd in the last year, and every component in the system has been replaced from the lines to the injectors, I've now removed the pre filter, and the convoluted hose setup to go with it. I've also fitted the pump horizontally, slightly lower than the tank as opposed to vertically.

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The Delphi pump I've fitted is quieter than the Walbro I had before, and the system reaches pressure almost instantly.

To my surprise, the gauge is giving a reasonable reading too, showing about a quarter full with about 20 litres in (the 280z tank has a 65 litre capacity so whilst not truly accurate, knowing if I have low or high fuel level is good enough for me!)

Top tip. Fit all your connectors BEFORE fitting the pump, preferably with some sort of removable connector (spade, bullet etc) you do NOT want the pain of faffing around in a confined area right next to a fuel tank trying to make things fit. My neck and shoulder still hurt from spending a few hours horizontal trying to fix things!

I also fit the rear lock and hatch strut @Minksport sold me some time ago. The lock works perfectly but I suspect I need an uprated strut as both of the ones I have don't hold the hatch open (not @Minksport fault!). Through a bit of reading, I think I have 2 struts which were part of a 260/280 strut setup, which used 2 struts. I have all the bracketry to add a second strut if I wish, but it's not an immediate concern.

Tonight I fitted a washer bottle too, bought from eBay many months ago. Quite pleased with how it fits/looks (I do need to sort that wiring out though!)

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Cleaned up and fitted the old pads, using silicone on the rubber piston covers, and copper grease on the back of the pads.

When I first bought the car these things were on it, along with the disks. Whilst a bit rusty, the components hardly had any wear at all.

I picked up a new pad retaining kit off Amazon when when I bought the replacement 4runner calipers.

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Rear drums are on as well (thanks @Seikoking ) and bleed screws have been cracked ready for the painful job of bleeding the brake system in the coming days.

I've now fitted all my locks and with help from a bit of WD40, the mechanisms have. Been freed off and the doors lock from the inside!

However, I can't get the keys to lock the doors from the outside, so I suspect a bit of adjustment is needed.

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Check that the screws securing the lock aren'the too long. I've had that problem.

The countersunk screws are different lengths (from memory) someone had replaced the screws on my 260Z with nice shiny new ones (same lengths) and one of them will prevent the key mechanism from operating.
 
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That pad retaining kit is for the vented disc caliper, I bought the same one initially.
I got the correct one from Z Car Depot but it was part of a bigger order so postage wasn't an issue.

https://zcardepot.com/collections/front-brakes/products/toyota-caliper-hardware-kit

Thanks Mark. Will it matter too much? The previous owner had no spreader fitted. The pads were held in place with tiny split pins.

Check that the screws securing the lock aren'the too long. I've had that problem.

The countersunk screws are different lengths (from memory) someone had replaced the screws on my 260Z with nice shiny new ones (same lengths) and one of them will prevent the key mechanism from operating.

Thanks Rob. All the screws looked the same length to me (though no way to tell if they were original or not. I will loosen it all off and have a play.
 
I gave it a go bleeding my brakes tonight. I had a one-person Sealey bottle I had planned on using, but given mother dearest is stuck with us during lockdown, I enlisted her help too!

A few people and youtube guides advised of the "open screw, pedal down, close screw, pedal up" method, topping up the cylinder when necessary. After a few hickups at first, we soon got the hang of it.

Pedal seems to feel firm, but can go spongey then regain firmness. At a later point I'll redo the lot, but it's not bad for a first attempt!

Took it for a little spin around the yard in front of my house - very exciting and much further than 20m! More like 100m on the clock now!

Next job is mounting the mirrors.
 
Thanks Mark. Will it matter too much? The previous owner had no spreader fitted. The pads were held in place with tiny split pins.

The main issue is the length of the pins holding the pads in place, it won't affect the operation/safety, it just looks a bit 'wrong' with the extra length sticking out ;)
 
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Few bits of kit left over from my brake bleeding adventure. You can see the old fluid was a lovely dark colour.

I highly recommend keeping one of these around IMG_20200429_185547.jpg

It's a pump from an old soap bottle I kept in the toolbox from years ago. It came in good use twice when I overfilled the master cylinder and needed to remove a little fluid!

Moving on to the mirrors, one of my doors resembles Swiss cheese from installation of different mirrors over the years

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Longer term I will get a plate welded behind the door, however, for the moment I just want to keep it relatively watertight.

I "obtained" a bracket from an old roadworks barrier. It is made of what I think is a rubber/plastic composite. Very chunky but easy to shape with a knife/saw.

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I plan on putting a couple of holes in it to mount the plastic bracket of the mirrors to, and shaping it to meet the door and make it resembles something mildly aesthetic.

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Not perfect, but practical for the time being. Once finished it should look a bit tidier.

I'm also ordering some plates. I would have liked some pressed metal ones but they don't seem to come in a small enough size to suit the rear. Therefore I'm opting for standard white front / oblong yellow rear to suit an import (330mm X 165mm)
 
Excellent stuff. I always use one of those turkey basters for filling the MC or taking fluid out. The one-man bleeding kits are a faff but it is possible ...

Ingenious solution for the mirror base!
 
Passenger side now fitted

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Had another play with the EFI settings and got her running nicely


Pretty pleased with how it's coming together (less pleased with my lockdown haircut!)

Some pics I took this evening...

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I need to put the glass back in (which I can only see being a nightmare!) And fit the front spoiler next
 
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