240z (L28) Electric fuel pump install - what parts?

uk66fastback said:
The DME relay on the 944 (the one that sometimes 'goes' and leaves you stranded), switches off the fuel pump if it detects an engine speed of less than 200rpm or something.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I think that is exactly the one I ordered this morning! It has a connection to low voltage positive side of the coil, so it should be easy to install at the passenger side footwell.

132022 HITACHI is the part number, it was 30€
 
240L31 said:
I think I won't fit an inertia switch as it is another part which could get me stranded in case of a failure..
Click to expand...

Bare in mind if it did fail (unlikely) you just have to join the two wires together to be on your way ;)
 
240L31 said:
Interesting, I think that is exactly the one I ordered this morning! It has a connection to low voltage positive side of the coil, so it should be easy to install at the passenger side footwell.

132022 HITACHI is the part number, it was 30€
Click to expand...

One step forward two steps back : the Hitachi one apparently has an inbuilt Rev limiter and no initial prime functionality. Now I ordered a real fuel pump relay controller from the US: https://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Products/Fuel_Pump.html
 
That does look like it’s made for the job! I would have to crank my old Mustang for seemingly forever to get it to start and should have fitted one of these ... might think about fitting one to my Z.
 
I've fitted facet pumps to my Zs with a regulator between the pump and the carbs and set that to 2.5psi.

The only problem I've had is the internal filter clogging with petrol-tank rust/crud.

There are lots of opinions like should the pump be near the tank or can it go in the engine-bay, should the pressure regulator be before the carbs or in the return line (if there is one) etc. My cars have worked ok with the pumps in either position and although the 'near tank' location is the 'proper' location it can be a pain for access to the pump (and filter if you fit one before the pump). Also you can tend to forget pump/filter/fuel hoses if they are out of site and awkward to get to.

Cut-off - yes a good safety measure but it's worth doing a risk assessment when deciding on action.

What are the chances of a serious accident considering the mileage we do?

What are the chances of being unable to turn off the ign in the event of an accident?

What are the chances of fuel lines being ruptured?

If you feel all those are likely then I'd fit a cut-off.

I think it's more likely that our cars will suffer a fire from carbs over the exhaust (seen that happen).

So when fitting an electric pump, regulator, cut-off check your fuel hoses for perishing and splits, fit an air filter and fit a big tray under the carbs to deflect any fuel away from the manifold. Also if you alter your airfilter and still have SU type carbs provide plumbing for the air vent pipes that come off the top of the float-chamber. I've seen them just hanging over the exhaust manifold! If the needle valve sticks open due to grit etc fuel will pour out of those - that's happened on a car of mine. I had the standard airfilter and that filled with fuel and it dripped onto my enlarged 'tray'.
 
@Rob Gaskin I agree, as I said before I think the fewer (electronic) parts the better. However, the fuel pump controller seems to be a smart idea as it also replaces a relay which would be needed anyways. Plus the main benefit of an electric fuel pump (to my eyes) is the fuel priming before cranking (which the controller takes care of).

Is a fpr with a low pressure pump needed? For my understanding, the fuel return line features a small hole which should "set" the pressure inside the fuel rail.

Does anyone have some pictures of the fuel pump wiring which is apparently hidden close to the fuse box? I found the cables at the fuel tank, but not in the cabin so far.
 
240L31 said:
@Rob Gaskin I agree, as I said before I think the fewer (electronic) parts the better. However, the fuel pump controller seems to be a smart idea as it also replaces a relay which would be needed anyways. Plus the main benefit of an electric fuel pump (to my eyes) is the fuel priming before cranking (which the controller takes care of).

Is a fpr with a low pressure pump needed? For my understanding, the fuel return line features a small hole which should "set" the pressure inside the fuel rail.

Does anyone have some pictures of the fuel pump wiring which is apparently hidden close to the fuse box? I found the cables at the fuel tank, but not in the cabin so far.
Click to expand...

Why do you need a relay? The current is very low about 2 amps - about the same as one indicator bulb.

Priming, I just switch the ignition on, listen to the 'clicking' and when the note changes and slows down I start the car. That length of time can vary so a timer isn't as good as your ears.

Regulator - the lowest pressure Facet is 4.5 psi - I run mine at 2.5 so that I don't overpower the needle valves. The standard fuel rail system will be configured for the standard arrangement and not for aftermarket pumps. Are you saying that no matter what pressure you feed the 'in' pipe with it will only ever be the same because of the return? I have experienced a leaky float which only floated properly when the carb got warm. I discovered this when running the car from cold at a show and the carb was flooding, I reduced the pressure until the flooding stopped. I got home ok - without a regulator things would have been different and dangerous.
 
Rob Gaskin said:
Are you saying that no matter what pressure you feed the 'in' pipe with it will only ever be the same because of the return?
Click to expand...

Of course all within reason (in other words: the after market fuel pump must be in the same pressure/flow range). The fuel return line acts similar to a FPR but it can only leak a certain amount of fuel back to the tank. The mechanical pump is rated at around 3,5-4 psi (FSM).
 
To those running an electrical fuel pump: do I need a high pressure fuel filter or can I continue using the stock one?

I'd assume I should be fine, considering the low pressure after the pump. In any case I also have to run a filter before pump as I still have some leftovers from sandblasting in my tank (8000km later..).
 
240L31 said:
To those running an electrical fuel pump: do I need a high pressure fuel filter or can I continue using the stock one?

I'd assume I should be fine, considering the low pressure after the pump. In any case I also have to run a filter before pump as I still have some leftovers from sandblasting in my tank (8000km later..).
Click to expand...

Stock is fine, Ive always run a filter before the pump as a matter of course.
 
240L31 said:
So you still run a regular low pressure filter after the pump?
Click to expand...

Yes, although it's probably not needed, with the pre pump filter in place. My tank has never been cleaned, but thankfully the filter doesn't appear to get clogged with loads of crap, i usually change it every other year or so.
 
My new favourite thread! Following with great interest.

I like that FP controller and the Hitachi pump Mr. 240L31 quoted! Been researching this a lot and never found a pump with as much info as the one you listed!

For cold start I don’t mind a little bit of extra cranking as it gets the oil round before the action starts ;)

As for mech fuel pump failing, I suspected my 40 year old one had failed (it turned out to be an intermittent blockage in the fuel lines) but when I took it apart, the diaphragm was unbelievably healthy, strong, thick! How many times have we heard of mech pump failures? But by contrast, I’ve read many a thread about electrical pump failures.

One of the things I like about the idea of running both is that if one fails, you can still get home with the other.

Would love to keep abreast of how you guys get on with these different installations and how quiet / noisy they are.
 
So today I made a bracket for the Hüco fuel pump. I used 1.5mm zinc coated steel and a set of rivnuts. There's a "shield" which should protect the fuel pump/filter from the wheel side.
The Hüco pump is really solid. It's heavy and the complete body seems to be made of some sort of fiberglass reinforced resin. There's a rubber band between the fuel pump and the clamp. What I like most is that you can rotate fuel inlet and outlet 180°.

The pre-pump filter is a coarse grid fuel filter.

40962781bz.jpg

40962774ih.jpg


I just painted everything black, should look very nice. Mounts to the stock electrical fuel pump mounting points (I had to find them under the undercoating first).
 
Last edited:
Another one for your collection of Z parts for sale!? ;)

looks great buddy!
 
240L31 said:
So today I made a bracket for the Hüco fuel pump. I used 1.5mm zinc coated steel and a set of rivnuts. There's a "shield" which should protect the fuel pump/filter from the wheel side.
The Hüco pump is really solid. It's heavy and the complete body seems to be made of some sort of fiberglass reinforced resin. There's a rubber band between the fuel pump and the clamp. What I like most is that you can rotate fuel inlet and outlet 180°.

The pre-pump filter is a coarse grid fuel filter.

40962781bz.jpg

40962774ih.jpg


I just painted everything black, should look very nice. Mounts to the stock electrical fuel pump mounting points (I had to find them under the undercoating first).
Click to expand...

Very nice. Do you happen to have the dimensions of the bracket, mounting holes, etc?
 
Mine also needs one of these making up as it’s been taken off at some point. Nice and neat, like that Tim.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top