Zinc plating question

[Robotsan]

I'm going to get a load of bolts and various bits of hardware zinc plated soon, but I was wondering if you're able to get parts with rubber or plastic bits in that can't be removed, plated? If so, what happens to those bits?

I'm talking about the door, bonnet and hatch parts, like these:







And what about more complex parts with springs in like the hatch catch?

 

[MCBladeRun]

They'd plate the lot without taking it apart, after degreasing and vapor blasting the totally metal parts.

The bits with plastic they'd either take apart for you, or flatly refuse to do them I'd imagine.

 

[Fairlineguy]

Never had a problem with any of the plastic bits being damaged by the process.
The company I use put all the bolts in a rotating drum I always ask them to plate anything with plastic separately
as the plastic will get damaged by any rotating parts

 

[Robotsan]

Never had a problem with any of the plastic bits being damaged by the process.
The company I use put all the bolts in a rotating drum I always ask them to plate anything with plastic separately
as the plastic will get damaged by any rotating parts

Ok brilliant. I'll ask them to do the same then.

So do I have to degrease or clean the parts myself before hand or do they do that too, usually?

 

[Fairlineguy]

Ok brilliant. I'll ask them to do the same then.

So do I have to degrease or clean the parts myself before hand or do they do that too, usually?

Tbh I just put all the rusty dirty nuts,bolts,washers brackets etc in a tub together i don’t bother cleaning anything but I guess if i had any really oily engine bolts I’d perhaps give them a bit of a clean.
The place I use put them in what is best described as a electric concrete mixer so get cleaned/ de rusted in the rotating drum
Anything painted I strip with paint stripper I.e bonnet hinges

 

[Robotsan]

Tbh I just put all the rusty dirty nuts,bolts,washers brackets etc in a tub together i don’t bother cleaning anything but I guess if i had any really oily engine bolts I’d perhaps give them a bit of a clean.
The place I use put them in what is best described as a electric concrete mixer so get cleaned/ de rusted in the rotating drum
Anything painted I strip with paint stripper I.e bonnet hinges

Ok got it. Thanks!

 

[Geoff-R]

I'll second the stripping of paint, most places won't plate if it has paint on it and if there is any paint left on it then the process won't effectively strip the paint. You'd have parts where paint is left on it. Best to strip the paint first. With regards to the springs, like the bonnet catch that will be fine. Worth effectively degreasing all parts as well before they go off as sometimes the grease can be stubborn and remain.

 

[Albrecht]

I'm going to get a load of bolts and various bits of hardware zinc plated soon, but I was wondering if you're able to get parts with rubber or plastic bits in that can't be removed, plated? If so, what happens to those bits?

In my experience, many platers will render such parts unserviceable. Their prep finishes off parts that are already past their best.

The tailgate guides are a good example. The hard nylon blocks can fall apart/melt and the small springs which give them their action can be ruined by the chemical stripping and/or agitated cleaning process. They are all but impossible to take apart and rebuild. New ones are still available.

Same with the sprung lower guides for the door strikers. The hard plastic is easy to kill and the springs can break. Again, new ones are still available.

The door strikers themselves (the bigger part mounted to the door jambs) have rubber buffers inside them which are usually damaged or missing. When plating the door strikers (correct finish is 'clear' silver zinc) it is wise to replace these for correct closing of the doors. Rebuild kits, including the tiny rubber parts inside the door-side catches, are available.

Bonnet catch can be disassembled and the rubber buffer removed for plating. You can cut the rubber coating off of the finger plate and re-use it, or use something like Plasti-Dip to replicate it after plating.

Tailgate catches can be re-plated (correct finish is - again - 'clear' silver zinc) but there are springs in them which can get damaged. In my experience it is sometimes better to give them a thorough manual clean-up, rattle can paint job and oil-up. You don't see that much of them on the car anyway.

Platers can be a bit hit and miss. I've had to switch several times because of problems with lost parts, sloppy prep and plating and complete disregard for my written instructions (attached to the part!). One plater took it upon himself to chrome (chrome FFS!) a fuel filler cap because he thought "...it would look better", even when it had a label requesting gold-passivated zinc.

I've tried the home plating kits but they are too much of a faff for me.

 

[Robotsan]

Thanks everyone.

@Albrecht thanks for such a detailed reply. Instagram would have you believe everyone gets these parts zinc plated successfully, but I guess people who find the parts have fallen to bits probably don't mention it!

I thought about just painting them, but then they're bits that see a lot of wear so the paint would just be worn off and then they must rust again.

On the door parts, they still have the nylon and rubber parts intact. The tailgate guides have the nylon parts but the rubber blocks have completely turned to dust! I was thinking of just cutting a bit of rubber to fit there later?

Good to know new parts are available for these bits though, in case the plating does ruin them! Would that be direct from Nissan, or is there a better place?

 

[Albrecht]

The tailgate guides have the nylon parts but the rubber blocks have completely turned to dust! I was thinking of just cutting a bit of rubber to fit there later?

Good to know new parts are available for these bits though, in case the plating does ruin them! Would that be direct from Nissan, or is there a better place?

It might be just as easy to buy a new pair from online vendors such as this one:

ebay link

They work nicely when they are new!

 

[Robotsan]

It might be just as easy to buy a new pair from online vendors such as this one:

ebay link

They work nicely when they are new!

Thanks Alan. I'll probably give the plating a whirl first, as I've spent too much on parts and shipping recently! But good to know there are parts available should it go pear shaped.

 

[Ian Patmore]

I agree with Albrecht. Plating hit and miss (if they haven't lost them). As touched on, prep is key, even if the plater will degrease. All my big parts are wet vapour blasted, as it seems to give a better finish if left just to the plater. Small parts I just degrease, and dry glass blast before going off.

 

[Robotsan]

Well I've had them all soaking in citric acid for 3 days, and given them a thorough wire brushing. Will give them a good scrub with degreaser next, but I think they're looking ok. Feel nice and smooth anyway.

 

[Ian]

I'll soon be able to degrease, blast and Cerakote parts.

Cerakote could be a good solution for some of these parts. It doesn't require the complication and material build up of primer, its a very thin mil coating so will not affect the function of any parts. I even put a thin coat on the threads of bolts and it still allows you to use them. Its also very durable to abrasion and corrosion resistance.

If anyone is interested let me know. I currently use the media blaster at the Bodyshop I do some work for when I am on leave but I plan to have my own blasting cabinet installed shortly in my garage.

 

[uk66fastback]

Robot - I’d dry those off, grease ‘em up and put ‘em back on … go for the patina-but-cleaner look …