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Which Oil?
- Thread starter WillsZed
- Start date
andrew muir
Club Member
Anyone any thoughts on oil?
Just had a discussion with a friend who works for BP in bulk oil sales etc.
He said that no matter what car you have the best oil is a fully synthetic ester based oil. These never go out of grade and the only reason you change them is because of the detergents and other aditives getting used up.
I have consulted my original handbook for my 260z and basically it would indicate a 10-40w or even a 5-40w.
The 20-50w according to my friend is really too thick for the UK and should only be used under race or if the engine is worn out.
He said basically flow is very important and in cold conditions it will take ages for the 20w-50w to flow well.
He said Miller oils were good oils.
But any other true ester oil is good, especially racing oils as the have less detergent which dont fight against any Zinc/phosphorous.
So summing up he suggested no heavier than a 10-40w racing (high zinc) ester based oil with some detergent but not SM/SN rated oil, SL and older specs should be about ok.
He suggested that oils are changing a lot at the moment and that high Zinc and oils above 30w will get hard to obtain at garage forecourts.
I have just ordered Fuchs(Silkolene) Titan race pro S 10-50w and some 5-40w after speaking with one of the lab guys at Silkolene he said that they can be mixed together in any amount to get a custom grade, apparently one is bright red the other yellow so a nice orange shoul be about right
Just had a discussion with a friend who works for BP in bulk oil sales etc.
He said that no matter what car you have the best oil is a fully synthetic ester based oil. These never go out of grade and the only reason you change them is because of the detergents and other aditives getting used up.
I have consulted my original handbook for my 260z and basically it would indicate a 10-40w or even a 5-40w.
The 20-50w according to my friend is really too thick for the UK and should only be used under race or if the engine is worn out.
He said basically flow is very important and in cold conditions it will take ages for the 20w-50w to flow well.
He said Miller oils were good oils.
But any other true ester oil is good, especially racing oils as the have less detergent which dont fight against any Zinc/phosphorous.
So summing up he suggested no heavier than a 10-40w racing (high zinc) ester based oil with some detergent but not SM/SN rated oil, SL and older specs should be about ok.
He suggested that oils are changing a lot at the moment and that high Zinc and oils above 30w will get hard to obtain at garage forecourts.
I have just ordered Fuchs(Silkolene) Titan race pro S 10-50w and some 5-40w after speaking with one of the lab guys at Silkolene he said that they can be mixed together in any amount to get a custom grade, apparently one is bright red the other yellow so a nice orange shoul be about right
I use Halfords BMW LL01 synthetic 5w/30. They seem to offer it for about £10 for 4 litre once or twice a year, so I buy plenty, enough for the BMW and the 260z.
I like the thought that a nice runny oil will get round the engine quick when I haven't started it for a few weeks.
I like the thought that a nice runny oil will get round the engine quick when I haven't started it for a few weeks.
racer
Club Member
I just bought some of this.
http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/race/oil-engine/joe-gibbs-driven-hr-1-15w50-engine-oil
A lot of the modern stuff is too thin and has no ZDDP(Zinc) in it to save cats on newer cars.
Compared to a lot of synthetic oils it's also sensibly priced Imo.
Some Tech here
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/...-its-effects-on-older-engines/comment-page-2/
http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/race/oil-engine/joe-gibbs-driven-hr-1-15w50-engine-oil
A lot of the modern stuff is too thin and has no ZDDP(Zinc) in it to save cats on newer cars.
Compared to a lot of synthetic oils it's also sensibly priced Imo.
Some Tech here
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/...-its-effects-on-older-engines/comment-page-2/
JK240
Club Member
Before I had my rebuild over last summer I was using the Millers Classic Sport semi synthetic 20w50, but when the rebuild was completed the oil used was Shell Helix Ultra fully synthetic 5w-40 and same again after we changed them oil after a 1000 mile run in, So I'll probably stay with that now as it's about £1/ litre at the local shell where I fill up.
andrew muir
Club Member
Don't put too much in as too much is worse it can be corrosive! They say 1200-1400 parts [er million is the right amount..
I was surprised that he didn't recommend a BP oil but he said all forecourt oil marked API SM/SN is not right for old cars.
He also did not recommend additives as difficult to get mix amount right and it may not be compatible.
He also talked about 2 different types of Zddp!
I was surprised that he didn't recommend a BP oil but he said all forecourt oil marked API SM/SN is not right for old cars.
He also did not recommend additives as difficult to get mix amount right and it may not be compatible.
He also talked about 2 different types of Zddp!