Which clutch for my 240z with L28 engine? and do I need a new one?

Graeme - CZ

Club Member
Hi everyone,

So i've got a leaking rear main oil seal; at least that's what both I and the garage who just MOT'd think - it passed thankfully. Let's assume it is the rear main seal that is leaking oil on the garage floor, albeit not a lot - though when recently tuning it, the car is clearly dropping more oil when it is running than when it is parked up.

Question is, should I fix the leak? And if I do, should I replace the clutch whilst I am at it?

Whist brings me to my question, which clutch. RockAuto seem to have a good selection here

A budget option, which seems to be the one zcardepot sells for double the price. RockAuto price - £61 - here

Or for £30 more, this one - £95 - here

Can anyone give me any advice on what clutch to get? Worth mentioning the car has freshly refurbed carbs and a Zstory fast road exhaust system, so is putting out more power than stock - thought that will be the limit to my performance upgrades.

Oh, and classic newbie question. I have a '73 240z with L28 block and 5 speed box, which I assume is also 280z - so I need a 280z clutch? (just checking ;-)

Thanks, Graeme
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Are you thinking of taking the engine or gearbox out to do it? You can't change the side seals without the engine out and the rear main cap off. But I think you'd be able to change the main seal in situ.
clutch selection can be complicated when you've had (or potentially) had engine, flywheel and gearbox swaps.
I'd at least wait until you've seen what's in there before you buy a clutch.
 

Graeme - CZ

Club Member
Does the clutch slip? Just check the condition of it when you do the rear seal. You may not need one.

I've not experienced any issues with the clutch, no. It would be a precautionary step, given the gearbox would be dropped or disconnected to replace the seal.
 

Graeme - CZ

Club Member
Are you thinking of taking the engine or gearbox out to do it? You can't change the side seals without the engine out and the rear main cap off. But I think you'd be able to change the main seal in situ.
clutch selection can be complicated when you've had (or potentially) had engine, flywheel and gearbox swaps.
I'd at least wait until you've seen what's in there before you buy a clutch.

Hey Jon - this is not the sort of job I would attempt myself. Don't have the space, equipment or experience to even contemplate it - so it would be into a local garage to do. Quoted me around £500 for the job.

I'm guessing the answer to your question would be no, done in situ.
 

Graeme - CZ

Club Member
It did cross my mind, given my car is a bit of a 240z / 280z mashup - that I might need to buy both a 240z and 280z clutch, in the event that the work is being done and the 280z parts don't fit.
 

240L31

Club Member
Are you thinking of taking the engine or gearbox out to do it? You can't change the side seals without the engine out and the rear main cap off. But I think you'd be able to change the main seal in situ.

I did exactly this a few weeks ago. It was actually not a problem at all (and fixed my leak)!
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
I am set to do the clutch on my 944 in the near future (a long job) and the replacement of the main rear seal is usually done at the same time. It literally is a simple job with the clutch and flywheel off.
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
At less than £100 for a clutch kit I'd replace it while the box is out, seems daft not to. If the existing one is in good nick just keep it for a spare if you wish.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I think there are broadly speaking only two variations of the standard clutch - 225mm and 240mm, but there are also variations of the collar/sleeve that sort the reach to the gearbox out.
I suppose if you bought one of each clutch one of them would be right. you'd have to be careful to tell the garage to use the clutch thats the same height as the old one.
 
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240L31

Club Member
And you just had the car up on axle stands etc?
I had the car on a lift. Piston 1 needs to be at TDC so that you can slide out the oil pan between engine and Crossmember.

BTW I would recommend a stock style 240mm clutch setup, I'm running a fairly cheap Exedy and it holds up fine.
 

Huw

Club Member
I think there are broadly speaking only two variations of the standard clutch - 225mm and 240mm, but there are also variations of the collar/sleeve that sort the reach to the gearbox out.
I suppose if you bought one of each clutch one of them would be right. you'd have to be careful to tell the garage to use the clutch thats the same height as the old one.


I have a brand new boxed 225mm clutch kit ( flywheel, cover, pilot bearing, release bearing) I mistakenly bought. If you need one you can have this for £50.

By the way, the sump gasket can also leak at the rear of the pan by the gearbox. Might want to check that while your at it.

Huw
 
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Graeme - CZ

Club Member
So, the 240z (which has 280z block and gearbox) is in the garage to have the clutch done (along with the main seal).

I'd ordered 2 clutches from RockAuto, one for a 240z and one for a 280z. Neither of them fit. My garage is trying to see if can source some sort of part that would enable them to do something, but we'll see.

I'm somewhat stumped! I'd ordered both a 240z clutch and 280z clutch, just to avoid this very issue - car on a ramp in a garage with gearbox off and parts that don't fit.

Welcome anyones thoughts / ideas?

Here's a note from the garage on what they are seeing:

Pressure plate fingers - 18
Release bearing hole - 68mm
Hight - 58mm aprox

Drive plate -
Splines - 24
Width across centre in gaps - 25mm
23mm on top of splines
Width - 225mm

https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1209170&parttype=1993
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6752260&cc=1209170&jsn=8

https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1209204&parttype=1993
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2393830&cc=1209204&jsn=16

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