When sat in traffic, Engine runs shit and oil pressure drops

[Jason S.]

Jason, we'd like to know more about the car and it's history please.

No wonder the oil pressure is low if you let it tick-over at 350-400 rpm. 900 is about right. Perhaps you are expecting too much from the old girl.

At 350 rpm it won't be pumping oil or water efficiently - or charging.

I upped the RPMs to about 750 very soon after picking it up from the garage. It has not been run at such low RPMs (400s) for more than a day.

Fuel pump, as I understand it, is not functioning correctly, so an electric Bosch one was added when I had the car in California. The fuel still goes through the old pump tho'. Perhaps this is an area that should be brought back to original.

 

[Jason S.]

FWIW I reckon it's a fuelling issue. It sounds like the heat from the exhaust manifold is either causing vapour lock where it starts running lean or the expansion of the carb body due to heat is causing an air leak with the same effect. A test would be to let it run up to temperature then whip out a spark plug and see if it is the right colour. If it's white or glazed then it's overheating due to lean fuelling.

As for air leaks check the gasket seals between carb & manifold. That's a favourite place.

I have had 'ray gun', infrared? beems aimed at all parts of the running engine only to be told it runs cool.

 

[jonbills]

The engines do run pretty cool as long as the cooling system is working properly. But that doesn't mean the fuel is cool enough!
Given you have a replacement electric fuel pump, do you have a pressure regulator? It might be useful to take a look at the plugs, or use a colourtune while it's struggling to see if it's rich or lean.

 

[uk66fastback]

Yes, be good to see some pics of it if it has been in the family since new ... (rare as, I suspect)

 

[jonbills]

Let's stick to the topic please. The topic is problems idling.