What did you do to your Z this week?

arcdef

Club Member
You can do a bit better than that - you can get a shorter or longer tube to go between the top and bottom clampy Bush pairs.

Found a pair of Honda crx drop links which are only 3 inches long worked a treat and only cost £15 delivered! Just need to find a day when the road salt has been washed away to take it for a test spin!

Also my 350z broke on me today, started stuttering on the motorway then really struggled to start at the shops. Code for a camshaft position sensor popped up on the scanner, let's see if an eBay special sensor fixes it!
 

Ped

Club Member
Took the Zed out for a quick run yesterday and stuck some fuel in it. Doubt I will use it much now as it's only a matter of time before the evil gritters put in an appearance. :EXTRAmad:
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Found a pair of Honda crx drop links which are only 3 inches long worked a treat and only cost £15 delivered! Just need to find a day when the road salt has been washed away to take it for a test spin!

Also my 350z broke on me today, started stuttering on the motorway then really struggled to start at the shops. Code for a camshaft position sensor popped up on the scanner, let's see if an eBay special sensor fixes it!

Sorry to hear about the 350!!

How do the CRX links affect the ride as opposed to the stock length ones?
 

arcdef

Club Member
Sorry to hear about the 350!!

How do the CRX links affect the ride as opposed to the stock length ones?

I will let you know when i get to test it out! Lots of salt on the roads round here this week so not had an opportunity.

Just need to check the ARB is somewhere close to parallel but was no avoiding having shorter links.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
As long as the bar doesn't foul anywhere, I don't think a change to the length of the drop link will have any effect. They're not part of the spring.
 

arcdef

Club Member
As long as the bar doesn't foul anywhere, I don't think a change to the length of the drop link will have any effect. they're not part of the spring.
I think they can change the stiffness - prior to that i had some "adjustable" links with different thickness bushes that claimed to stiffen up the ride if set one way or the other.

I never bothered experimenting though to be honest!
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
yeah, agree that the stifness of the bushes in the link can have an affect. Also the position on the bar they're attached to has an affect, but not the length of the link.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
yeah, agree that the stifness of the bushes in the link can have an affect. Also the position on the bar they're attached to has an affect, but not the length of the link.

I reckon the length of the link will affect the angle of the bar in relation to the movement of the wishbone/arm e.g. if say the arb was at 45' then an inch movement of the wishbone would result in only 1/2" of the arb. However in practical terms in this case I doubt whether anything would be significant enough to notice?
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
Replaced the side window rubber felt thingy - it was the only weatherstrip I skipped during restoration and it bothered me every single time I opened the door. I used weatherstrip adhesive (instead of the stock metal strip+clamps).

40491813va.jpg

Hey
Can you share where you got this from please ?
I'm having the hardest time tracking something non-US based down
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
I've made progress with my winter project:

Car is on axle stands and so far I've removed front and rear struts, popped the 4x compressed parts in the steering knuckles using a ball joint removal tool.

Got the front sway bar off and the radius rods which, were pretty easy to remove compared with the rest of the parts.

https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/car-related-memes.27312/page-2#post-333249

IMG_20211106_165134.jpgSo I tried to remove my pinions using a tool made by another member and a torch with mapp gas and snapped my box spanner (with an extension pipe) so I'm throwing in the towel, hence the meme I created on the link above :rolleyes:

I just today finished removing the springs from the struts and found that 4x spring clamps half on was the easiest way to remove the upper insulated top hats.

I've compared the old eibach coils with the new and there isn't much difference in terms of length. But they are easier to compress than the new coils and have the usual weathering to them.

Found as well, the top hat insulators are in good condition except, one of the rears was missing the rubber puck (where on the fronts, a bearing sits). I think my suspension was definitely crying out for renewal!

Out of the 4x dampers, only one of the lock nuts was loose enough to get the damper out. And for good reason:IMG_20211121_170734.jpgHuge tear in the casing towards the top and when I compressed the damper: oil seeped out of the bottom which, I can only surmise that something was in the strut case to cause the tear upon insertion and maybe settled in the bottom and pierced it?

IMG_20211114_150646.jpgAlso organised and catalogued my parts, got a shelf full of brand new parts and a shelf of 2nd hand / refurbished parts.

I plan to do my brakes, suspension, bearings and a little bit on the steering rack. Wish me luck!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20211121_132402.jpg
    IMG_20211121_132402.jpg
    353.6 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_20211121_164959.jpg
    IMG_20211121_164959.jpg
    272.5 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_20211121_165042.jpg
    IMG_20211121_165042.jpg
    267.8 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_20211121_170741.jpg
    IMG_20211121_170741.jpg
    298.9 KB · Views: 20

Jason McIvor

Club Member
Been almost entirely occupied with electrical issues - and I'm no electrician

But I also ....
Buckets painted black and lights changed
.....
Currently struggling with how to get the main beam to trigger the relay with such little amp/ohm with the new LED headlights - head scratching
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20211121_113051858.jpg
    PXL_20211121_113051858.jpg
    148.2 KB · Views: 25

nospark

Well-Known Forum User
I have been running TL needles on my 240z with SU HS6 carbs. These needles and carbs were used on the Jaguar 240 back in the 1960's (2.4 inline 6). I,ve changed back to SM needles. The TL and SM share the same profile up to middle pickup but thereafter the SMs get richer. Sort of finger in the air tuning rather than rolling road

Have a look at mintylamb.co.uk .....a useful needle guide
 

Russell

Club Member
Been almost entirely occupied with electrical issues - and I'm no electrician

But I also ....
Buckets painted black and lights changed
.....
Currently struggling with how to get the main beam to trigger the relay with such little amp/ohm with the new LED headlights - head scratching

If the relay is wired correctly that wont have any effect. The relay should be triggered by the factory high beam power, the whole reason being to not send the full load of the headlight through the switch. The relay simply allows a separate power supplit to run to the headlights.
I suspect there is a more fundamental problem with how the LED headlights are wired vs whatever setup your car has to power them.
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
If the relay is wired correctly that wont have any effect. The relay should be triggered by the factory high beam power, the whole reason being to not send the full load of the headlight through the switch. The relay simply allows a separate power supplit to run to the headlights.
I suspect there is a more fundamental problem with how the LED headlights are wired vs whatever setup your car has to power them.

Russell
Ok, understand I think
I will relook at the LED wiring
 

arcdef

Club Member
Finally have a useable nearside mirror. Ever since installing these bullet mirrors not been able to angle the near side to see anything other than the verge!

Drilled a new hole for the positioning dowel, quick coat of paint and I was able to clock the mirror in towards the car.

20211127_113029.jpg 20211127_112851.jpg

Small victories!
 
Top