yes, his name is Sean
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What did you do to your Z this week?
- Thread starter jonbills
- Start date
yes, his name is Sean
Mr Ex Jnr
Club Member
Yeah I have seen the 240z in person when it had the air ride fitted his dad now bought it and wants standard running gear
I had a spare set 240z gear and swapped it with them great deal
!!!
Will be the only one in the UK again to be on Air
Let's be different
Coilovers were a option but at £1k lot money to fnd not made of.money
I had a spare set 240z gear and swapped it with them great deal
!!!Will be the only one in the UK again to be on Air
Let's be different
Coilovers were a option but at £1k lot money to fnd not made of.money
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Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
My 4/70 production HLS30U bodyshell has been blasted and etch primed (by sodablaster.co.uk - recommended), and is now back at Fourways Engineering for some small repairs, modifications and paintwork.
Very happy with the results. Nothing too frightening revealed and sodablaster.co.uk say that this is "the best Z shell we have ever seen", which is very reassuring.
Very happy with the results. Nothing too frightening revealed and sodablaster.co.uk say that this is "the best Z shell we have ever seen", which is very reassuring.
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Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
...although - as a 50+ year old - it is not 'mint' and has certainly had a life. A small, very old, dent repair was found on the RH rear corner and I reckon it might have had a minor car park fender bender on the RH front corner early in its life too. There's a bit of a ding on the top ledge of the radiator support panel (storage damage) and there are numerous dents on the floor panels which look like typical tyre shop Saturday boy jacking mistakes.
I've also removed the spare tyre well (deleted for the PZR/Works type 100 litre tank) but the most obvious previous owner molestation is the cutting of speaker holes in the rear 'cheesgrater' deck area (!). Luckily I've got a replacement section which Fourways Engineering can use to fill in the missing pieces:
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Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
Correct! Not the first time I've got their name wrong. Thank you.
Very nice Alan, I wouldn't have expected anything else from you.
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Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
Thanks, but I bought this car many years back as a disassembled project (I had to bring and fit my own suspension just to get it out of its garage and onto my trailer...) and it would be very very unlikely I'd find anything this early and this clean today without spending a serious amount of money. I was lucky, and the previous owner was very kind to me.
I've got a 'theme' to build to and a whole bunch of rare and/or unusual parts which I want to use on it (its a waste to have them sitting in the loft or in a glass display cabinet) so it won't be any kind of stock/concours restoration. It's an itch I need to scratch and possibly the last whole-car project I shall do.
You know the itch I'd like to scratch - have you heard anything about the owner's health by the way?
This is going to appear weird to anybody else.
This is going to appear weird to anybody else.
who are you addressing Rob?
Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
Probably best I PM you.
Yes Alan, that's what I thought you'd do. You will have my email too surely?
Faster Behr
Club Member
Today we’ve been getting started with my sons new (to us) 1978 280Z. It’s a California import and hasn’t been on the road in many years. After getting rid of the rancid petrol and getting some fresh fuel through, it looks like we’ve only got 6psi at the fuel rail and there’s very little compression on number 4. It struggles to hold anything other than idle. But it sounds surprisingly good otherwise
As for the fuel pressure, the filter is ok and the pump is noisy, so it’s time for a new fuel pump and stand-alone pressure regulator then we can work from there.
The compression issue is a wrinkle I didn’t need. I’m probably deluded in thinking it’s just sticking rings or valve clearances. This car has been sat for years so I think the best approach is to get the fuelling sorted, check the clearances, then try and run it and get some temperature in it before another test. Otherwise it’s time to get serious.
As for the fuel pressure, the filter is ok and the pump is noisy, so it’s time for a new fuel pump and stand-alone pressure regulator then we can work from there.
The compression issue is a wrinkle I didn’t need. I’m probably deluded in thinking it’s just sticking rings or valve clearances. This car has been sat for years so I think the best approach is to get the fuelling sorted, check the clearances, then try and run it and get some temperature in it before another test. Otherwise it’s time to get serious.
Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
4/70 HLS30U body back up on the rotisserie at Fourways Engineering after media blasting and etch priming. Some small repairs to follow (including knocking out a few of the 40+ year old jacking dents in the floor pans...) but some mods already done, as James has expertly repaired the speaker-hole cutouts in the 'cheesegrater' deck and has already added the roll-over bar doubler plates and the spare tyre well delete panel. North American market rear quarter marker lamp holes will be filled and factory rear anti-roll bar brackets will be added. That's pretty much it welding-wise apart from the tunnel mods for the handbrake lever right-to-left switcheroo.
FRP doors and tailgate are 'in the post' from Japan.
FRP doors and tailgate are 'in the post' from Japan.
arcdef
Club Member
Finally fitted the Subaru r180 LSD in the 280z, went to fit the CV axles I purchased from Datsun restomod in Canada only to find that they contact the sway bar end links. Has anyone else used these specific axles or any other brand and encountered this issue? If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears!
I haven't any experience of this situation however would it be possible to reposition the bush at the top of the drop-link. So unscrew the top nut and raise the lower washer with a nut? Is there room for the arb to operate at the new angle? However the arb would be softer at the new angle I think.
You can do a bit better than that - you can get a shorter or longer tube to go between the top and bottom clampy Bush pairs.