What did you do to your Z this week?

Mark N

Club Member
Wrong way?

0.58mm = 0.02283465

So 0.58mm is about 0.0002" (two ten thousandths of an inch) under 23 thou (thousandths of an inch)

:)

My bad, I thought you missed a comma before the word "under".
22.8 thou would have been easier. :)
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Been very off Z for a few weeks. Thought to go for a drive the other night before lockdown and had the bonnet open while heating the car up at 2k rpm on the choke.

The phone camera massively exaggerates it but with a naked eye, the primaries were a faint orange colour in the dark! As soon as I pushed the chicken in, they went back to normal colour. Kinda cool how s/s does that!

3A36DEED-38AD-4799-B238-42E4E011306F.jpeg
 

MaximG

Well-Known Forum User
Been very off Z for a few weeks. Thought to go for a drive the other night before lockdown and had the bonnet open while heating the car up at 2k rpm on the choke.

The phone camera massively exaggerates it but with a naked eye, the primaries were a faint orange colour in the dark! As soon as I pushed the chicken in, they went back to normal colour. Kinda cool how s/s does that!

View attachment 41931

So where does the chicken go?
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Been very off Z for a few weeks. Thought to go for a drive the other night before lockdown and had the bonnet open while heating the car up at 2k rpm on the choke. What about ignition timing -

The phone camera massively exaggerates it but with a naked eye, the primaries were a faint orange colour in the dark! As soon as I pushed the chicken in, they went back to normal colour. Kinda cool how s/s does that!

View attachment 41931


I am amazed they glow hot on a road car at just 2k. That is like your car on choke is delivering too much fuel and its burning in the exhaust - like a forced regen on a diesel. Is your ignition timing retarded?

I know it was an old trick for race engineers to spit on their fingers and tap on each primary to see which one was colder (if the race car had a misfire). But they wouldn't even be glowing otherwise they wouldn't need to do that.

Anyone else had their manifold glowing?
 
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Turn & Burn

Club Member
I am amazed they glow hot on a road car at just 2k. That is like your car on choke is delivering too much fuel and its burning in the exhaust - like a forced regen on a diesel. Is your ignition timing retarded?

I know it was an old trick for race engineers to spit on their fingers and tap on each primary to see which one was colder (if the race car had a misfire). But they wouldn't even be glowing otherwise they wouldn't need to do that.

Anyone else had their manifold glowing?

Only time I’ve had them visibly glowing had been on the rollers with a Ford Crossflow and later a Vauxhall Red-top, but they were getting pushed hard at the time. Ali said it was exaggerated by the camera though. I’ll measure mine when I’m setting the motor up.
I thought ‘Chicken’ was for real and I was out of touch with engine terminology, much better than choke anyway. I’m sure choking the chicken is something entirely different tho.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
I am amazed they glow hot on a road car at just 2k. That is like your car on choke is delivering too much fuel and its burning in the exhaust - like a forced regen on a diesel. Is your ignition timing retarded?

I know it was an old trick for race engineers to spit on their fingers and tap on each primary to see which one was colder (if the race car had a misfire). But they wouldn't even be glowing otherwise they wouldn't need to do that.

Anyone else had their manifold glowing?

I had the same thought Rob - but the AFR was sitting at 12.8, the ignition timing at 2k is 22 degrees all in, no vac advance and the chicken was fully roasted!

To the naked eye it was a dark orange but bright enough to catch my eye. I love that racer trick. I do still have a random misfire that still plagues it, so I will use the laser temp gauge and do exactly that.

MaximG - sounds like you’re all thumbs! Hope you’re OK buddy!
 

Mr Ex Jnr

Club Member
Well been busy buying :) got lucky on the hoard of parts went Saturday for them

Bought the wheels and arch too last weds went down to.Raf clament

Then Saturday my parcel turned up

Won a black and white colour competion on Facebook and won :)

DapanGT badges :p
 

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Seikoking

Well-Known Forum User
D759913B-613A-40B0-8908-97992BF533FE.jpeg 877D64A0-7D17-4CE0-91FA-A904676A4383.jpeg 4C0EFFBB-6F26-4EEB-AAC9-3D19C2A1052E.jpeg F70C3EE8-E8B6-4A21-BDC3-5757E2D2D594.jpeg D5428346-AB5C-4145-ACB4-B6DF41C4188E.jpeg Completed the install of the Members cold air box...

First, a cardboard template. Then the for the holes in the backing plate and a mock up to the carbs. Next up was the installation of the toggle latches to the box. Simple enough but taking care to get them positioned accurately.

Following a trial fitment of the box to backing plate, I decided to opt for a thicker edge seal to get a tighter fit of the 2 parts together and so the latches hold securely. A few trial and error fitments and some minor tweaks and it was secure. It’s quite snug up to the suspension turret and battery, but there was enough room, just! Looks great in the natural finish as supplied IMO.

On next to the pipe work. An ebay cold air kit plus A silicone reducer and straight hump connector were purchased. The hump connector fits perfectly in the hole in the rad support and holds everything nice and firm. The cone filter just clears the bonnet mechanisms.

I decided to install gauze filters on the trumpets inside the airbox just as an additional line of safety.

I took the car for a brief test run and it certainly felt a little more pokey and responsive especially in 3-4.5k range. Nothing to prove it has helped performance or BHP but I’m really pleased with it.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
View attachment 42019 View attachment 42020 View attachment 42021 View attachment 42022 View attachment 42023 Completed the install of the Members cold air box...

First, a cardboard template. Then the for the holes in the backing plate and a mock up to the carbs. Next up was the installation of the toggle latches to the box. Simple enough but taking care to get them positioned accurately.

Following a trial fitment of the box to backing plate, I decided to opt for a thicker edge seal to get a tighter fit of the 2 parts together and so the latches hold securely. A few trial and error fitments and some minor tweaks and it was secure. It’s quite snug up to the suspension turret and battery, but there was enough room, just! Looks great in the natural finish as supplied IMO.

On next to the pipe work. An ebay cold air kit plus A silicone reducer and straight hump connector were purchased. The hump connector fits perfectly in the hole in the rad support and holds everything nice and firm. The cone filter just clears the bonnet mechanisms.

I decided to install gauze filters on the trumpets inside the airbox just as an additional line of safety.

I took the car for a brief test run and it certainly felt a little more pokey and responsive especially in 3-4.5k range. Nothing to prove it has helped performance or BHP but I’m really pleased with it.
Nice work, looks great. Mind if I copy that through to the airbox thread as more info to help others?
 
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