Weber Carb Mounting | The Z Club of Great Britain
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Weber Carb Mounting

Discussion in 'S30 (240Z,260Z,280Z) Engine' started by nickknox, Apr 26, 2020.

  1. nickknox

    nickknox Well-Known Forum User

    I’ve changed my inlet/outlet gasket and just need a bit of advice on mounting the Weber’s back to the inlet manifolds.
    I’m going to change the Marib rings and the bobbins and caps. Where the best place to get these from?

    I understand the carbs should be tightened so there is a 1 mm gap between the caps encasing the rubber bobbins. Is this correct?

    When I took the carbs off there was a washer also between the caps so it went cap/washer/bobbin/cap. This looks to me as if someone put it together wrong at sometime. Also the caps were almost touching. I’m guessing this had the effect of the carbs being to tight to the engine causing vibration.

    Thanks in advance for any advice
     
  2. jonbills

    jonbills
    ZClub Administrator
    Staff Member Moderator

    Misab?
    Eurocarb will have everything.

    https://www.dellorto.co.uk/product-...d-fittings/manifold-accessories-and-fittings/
    sounds about right.

    yes, there shouldn't be a washer in there. I think someone got it wrong before. L6 doesn't have a lot of vibration to worry about, but still best to not mount them solid.
     
  3. nickknox

    nickknox Well-Known Forum User

    Thanks Jon
    I’m going to remount the carbs later today
     
  4. jonbills

    jonbills
    ZClub Administrator
    Staff Member Moderator

    How did you get on?
     
  5. nickknox

    nickknox Well-Known Forum User

    Got everything back on but she won’t fire up. I know that wasn’t the problem I just like things to be correct. She had ran for the 10 years I’ve had her mounted like that.

    I changed the inlet/outlet manifold gasket because I could see it blowing badly but she hasn’t started since

    I’ll keep tinkering and trying. She’s always a temperamental bitch if she hasn’t been ran for a while and it’s well over a year since she was running
     
  6. Rob Gaskin

    Rob Gaskin Treasurer Staff Member Moderator

    Use 'Easy Start'.
     
  7. jonbills

    jonbills
    ZClub Administrator
    Staff Member Moderator

    that would be a good test. most people use the accelerator pump jets to get it started, but if it's been sitting for a long while, the valves can get gummed up.
     
  8. nickknox

    nickknox Well-Known Forum User

    Ok update
    Tried starting with brake cleaner but no joy.
    Removed and cleaned plugs
    Checked distributor cap and inside scored to f**k.
    Had a spare old cap and she fired up. Coughing and spluttering a lot
    Need to buy a new dizzy cap and rotor arm if any can help
     
  9. jonbills

    jonbills
    ZClub Administrator
    Staff Member Moderator

    that's good news. you can probably get a cap and rotor delivered from Rockauto before next weekend.
     
  10. nickknox

    nickknox Well-Known Forum User

    After watching YouTube videos I’m an expert at balancing Weber’s. I don’t appear to have “air bleed screws” did they have them on all models?
    I think she’s over feeling. The plugs are wet and she over runs.
     
  11. nickknox

    nickknox Well-Known Forum User

    Suggestions welcome on servicing Webers. Is this something to be tackled or left to experts?
     
  12. jonbills

    jonbills
    ZClub Administrator
    Staff Member Moderator

    I don't think they all had air bleeds, although I'm more familiar with Dellortos, so will defer to others on that. Overrunning is not really to do with the carbs - while the engine is turning over and sucking air, it will draw fuel from the carbs. Turning the engine off cuts the power to the coil and so stops the sparkplugs. If it continues to run, it's because the fuel is igniting through some other means - probably something like carbon build up glowing red hot.
    Are the plugs wet after just idling? a Colourtune is invaluable in adjusting idle mixture.
     
  13. Albrecht

    Albrecht Well-Known Forum User

    I might be able to give a few pointers. I grew up with Weber DCOEs in the family (Dad's side of the family, not mum's...).

    What series are they?
     
  14. nickknox

    nickknox Well-Known Forum User

    40DCOE18
     
  15. Albrecht

    Albrecht Well-Known Forum User

    OK, that's good, as they are the 40DCOE series type which Weber themselves recommended for these engines (along with the 45DCOE-9). However, by definition they will be old...

    To make sure we are talking about the same thing, what exactly on the carb bodies are you calling "air bleed screws"? You should have 6 idle mixture control screws (one for each venturi) which screw into the body of the carburettor near the manifold. They have springs around them to keep them from self-adjusting. Are they present and correct? If not there, you won't have any chance of setting a stable idle speed/mixture.
     

    Attached Files:

    jonbills and Rushingphil like this.
  16. nickknox

    nickknox Well-Known Forum User

    I wanted to get a "default setting" for the carbs and watched a youtube video. It may have been a newer Weber. It had Air Bleed Screws (with a locknut) near the Idle Mixture Screw.
    My Idle mixture screws are there.
    His settings were (It was a Pinto)
    Idle Mixture Screws 1 1/4 turn
    Air Bleed Screws fully closed
    Idle speed screw half a turn after touching
     
  17. nickknox

    nickknox Well-Known Forum User

    I’m going to get a service kit for my Weber’s from Eurocarbs.
    I’m guessing I’ll need the 150 fuel valves or should I strip the carbs first and check.
    Any advice on cleaning the carbs. My guess is ultrasonic cleaner. I could do with one for the workshop. Any suggestions?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  18. jonbills

    jonbills
    ZClub Administrator
    Staff Member Moderator

    I think you'll be fine with 150s.
     
  19. nickknox

    nickknox Well-Known Forum User

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  20. nickknox

    nickknox Well-Known Forum User

    [​IMG]
    Okay I’m mid strip and the fuel valve I’ve order and received is 150. The one I’ve took out is 175
    What difference will it make?
    Do I need to order 174’s?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

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