Underbody treatment

Turn & Burn

Club Member
For the underside of my project car I will have the following coatings present:
Novol bodywork primer
2k epoxy primer
U-Pol Raptor tinted body colour (907 dark green)
Dinitrol 9050 hi-temp clear wax in exposed but harder to reach upper areas, e.g. above fuel tank, certain nooks and crannies. Also wax on all nut and bolt heads to keep corrosion away.
Dinitrol 3125 and ML cavity wax/fluid in all enclosed structures.
General upkeep through fluid leaks as described by Johny! ;)

I would never coat a full underside with underseal again. While its fine for targeted use, I want to see what's going on underneath, not hide it under goop. It irritates me that my red Z is undersealed. That's how I got it, and I've settled for maintaining it that way with regular checks and Dinitrol top-ups, but ideally I'd like to clean it all off and start again with another approach. That's not likely to happen for some time though. Once Dixie is on the road, red Z may get some TLC and upgrades to the underside necessitating a partial strip down and then we'll see.
Whats the benefit of clear waxing over the Raptor in the exposed but hard to reach areas?
I think I need a good cavity flooding session on mine.
 

richiep

Club Member
Whats the benefit of clear waxing over the Raptor in the exposed but hard to reach areas?
I think I need a good cavity flooding session on mine.
Just because I've got some and in places that are likely to acquire muck but be less reachable from a washing perspective it makes sense to me as a bit of extra insurance.
 

moggy240

Insurance Valuations Officer
Staff member
Club Member
I have used the dintrol cavity stuff on my chassis rails and box sections.
 

AD240Z

Club Member
I had mine done here - they are in a fair few classic car mags

When they cleaned underneath removed any loose coatings, They photographed and recorded anything (welds, repairs etc. ) and gave me the pics.

https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/our-complete-rust-proofing-service-24


Our Corrolan rust proofing service includes
  • Steam cleaning of the undercarriage with a Mossmatic cleaner.
  • Cleaning with Chlor-X Salt Remover to remove any ingrained winter salt crystals and Traffic Film Remover to make sure all grease and dirt is removed from the vehicle to be coated.
  • Removal of all plastic wheel arch liners and undertrays
  • Dry the vehicle using a 10 hp warm air blast drier and infra-red heat.
  • Remove any loose layered rust and old flaking coatings back to a sound surface.
  • Convert any sound surface rust with our award winning Fe-123 molecular rust converter or soak with Corrolan Penetrator.
  • Application of Corrolan Pure underbody rust proofing.
  • Injection of all cavities with HOT Corrolan Active cavity wax that penetrates deep into every crevice and seam to drive out moisture minimise corrosion.
  • Sills, subframes, door pillars, doors, quarter panels, bonnets and boot/hatch doors are all injected.
  • Once all waxing is completed we will then re-install all plastics removed from the vehicle and remove any visible wax overspray.
  • Before collection all vehciles (size depending) are washed
 

toopy

Club Member
I had mine done here - they are in a fair few classic car mags

When they cleaned underneath removed any loose coatings, They photographed and recorded anything (welds, repairs etc. ) and gave me the pics.
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/our-complete-rust-proofing-service-24
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/our-complete-rust-proofing-service-24

Our Corrolan rust proofing service includes
  • Steam cleaning of the undercarriage with a Mossmatic cleaner.
  • Cleaning with Chlor-X Salt Remover to remove any ingrained winter salt crystals and Traffic Film Remover to make sure all grease and dirt is removed from the vehicle to be coated.
  • Removal of all plastic wheel arch liners and undertrays
  • Dry the vehicle using a 10 hp warm air blast drier and infra-red heat.
  • Remove any loose layered rust and old flaking coatings back to a sound surface.
  • Convert any sound surface rust with our award winning Fe-123 molecular rust converter or soak with Corrolan Penetrator.
  • Application of Corrolan Pure underbody rust proofing.
  • Injection of all cavities with HOT Corrolan Active cavity wax that penetrates deep into every crevice and seam to drive out moisture minimise corrosion.
  • Sills, subframes, door pillars, doors, quarter panels, bonnets and boot/hatch doors are all injected.
  • Once all waxing is completed we will then re-install all plastics removed from the vehicle and remove any visible wax overspray.
  • Before collection all vehciles (size depending) are washed
Ive seen the add in Practical Classics many times, sounds thorough, I guess they drill access holes in the rad cross member, rails and sills?
 

AD240Z

Club Member
Ive seen the add in Practical Classics many times, sounds thorough, I guess they drill access holes in the rad cross member, rails and sills?

Yep. You can talk to them about specifics - they were very helpful.

It took a couple of days .

I’ve done a few of my old cars with brushes and sprays in the past - it was a far more pleasant experience to watch someone else do it.
 

Robotsan

Club Member
Excuse me bringing up an old thread, but I was just wondering about this kind of thing and came across it.

That Corralan rustbusters service looks effective and decent value.. but also not a nice thing to look at once its done! And the description of it as "a grease like consistency in cold temperatures; in summer the consistency is that of a heavy oil." puts me right off. Wouldn't that just end up covered in dirt?

Has anyone had this done? Surely something clearer/blacker like Lanoguard would be better?
 

toopy

Club Member
I have used the Corrolan stuff, not on my Z, but on the underside of my Transit van on surface rust. It seems very effective and it doesn't appear to attract any more dirt than the surrounding area would in general.

I think the consistency mentioned is more to do with how it would appear in a container before use, not so much once it's on a surface, as it kind of soaks in and feels waxy (not sticky) to the touch wether winter or summer.
 

Kieronpollock

Club Member
Use Lanoguard on my mini and will do on my Z once resto so finished (it’s been completely undersealed by the garage when just a rolling shell). Lanoguard is also very easily to apply, the grease of great for specific areas and as long as you let it cure for 3-5 days depending on temp you’re good to go for 6 months of regular use.
 

Robotsan

Club Member
I have used the Corrolan stuff, not on my Z, but on the underside of my Transit van on surface rust. It seems very effective and it doesn't appear to attract any more dirt than the surrounding area would in general.

I think the consistency mentioned is more to do with how it would appear in a container before use, not so much once it's on a surface, as it kind of soaks in and feels waxy (not sticky) to the touch wether winter or summer.

Ahh ok, not so bad then. I don't really like the look of it coating every wire, pipe and boot though. Looks like you've just driven through a really muddy puddle!
 

Robotsan

Club Member
Use Lanoguard on my mini and will do on my Z once resto so finished (it’s been completely undersealed by the garage when just a rolling shell). Lanoguard is also very easily to apply, the grease of great for specific areas and as long as you let it cure for 3-5 days depending on temp you’re good to go for 6 months of regular use.

And does that look fairly invisible? How does it feel to the touch?
 

Kieronpollock

Club Member
Once it’s cured properly it only feels ever so slightly tacky. Can also be sprayed on wiring with no negative effects. Will come off with power washer
Just smells of sheep for a day or two 😂😂
 

Robotsan

Club Member
Once it’s cured properly it only feels ever so slightly tacky. Can also be sprayed on wiring with no negative effects. Will come off with power washer
Just smells of sheep for a day or two 😂😂

Ah yes, I forgot it smells bad!

I'm wondering what to bother doing with my 280 when it arrives. Mike has done a little welding on the floor pan, and applied some light underseal, but I wonder if I should just coat the whole underside with lanoguard to stop it disintegrating in the UK before I can afford to get it all done properly.
 

toopy

Club Member
Ahh ok, not so bad then. I don't really like the look of it coating every wire, pipe and boot though. Looks like you've just driven through a really muddy puddle!
Agree not my cup of tea either, I've just used it more as a spot treatment on actual rust.

For something your going to use all over including pipes, cables etc I'd probably go for the Lanolin spray on stuff, both products smell sheepy :ack:
 
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