Bazzateer
Club Member
Any issues with picking up on the jacking points of the Z?
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Tilting car lift?
- Thread starter bigh
- Start date
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
Well chap I created a ramp for my car to drive onto, using planks similar to scaffold boards so that I can store the thing and the box it came in under the car (my garage was designed for the PO’s 70’s mini)!! [emoji849]
In this photo you can see the ramps and the lift under it’s wooden box (below the engine). Also off topic, the lovely fit of the Sean exhaust - which was the job I had jacked it up for in this instance while it was raining outside.
I use the lift on what some call chassis rails and others call floor supports, as the “superior”late 260z has stronger supports/rails that go all the way back and distribute the load across most of the car. Not sure if that’s a good idea on the 240z / early 260z though.
I don’t use it in my garage due to the lack of space but it can be done if you have the space to use the long cranking handle. I use the handle for the first bit of lifting, then after 20 turns I use a makita 4ah cordless drill for the rest and lowering. The first bit is very heavy turning and would potentially burn out an expensive drill. Once you get used to it, I can have the car up at scary heights / angles within 5 minutes of getting the car out of the garage and the lift positioned.
Saucer of milk for the man in Devon - with the gorgeous collection of parts that will some day / decade make a glorious car. [emoji8]
you took ages to pick this up !
Dad joke alert!!!!!! [emoji1787][emoji1360]
I use the suspension mounts, anywhere with sufficient thickness of metal basically, eg on the rear the anti roll bar mounts, on the front the tie rod to leg reinforced area.
Also let’s not forget that when you normally trolley jack a car, you are putting a HUGE load on a single small point. Something like a tilting or hydraulic scissor lift is spreading that load all over a very wide area.
The other thing that puts my mind at rest is that with the tilting one I have I always go either side of the fulcrum point so as to keep two wheels on the ground. That way I’m not lifting the entire weight of the car.
The other thing that puts my mind at rest is that with the tilting one I have I always go either side of the fulcrum point so as to keep two wheels on the ground. That way I’m not lifting the entire weight of the car.
Rushingphil
Club Member
There's a number of photos on my thread showing where I support the car. Esp. On post 13
Hopefully they are strong enough?
bigh
Club Member
Just a quick update on this thread. I purchased a slightly different system to jack the car up, (Quickjacks) and thought it might be of interest to others here?
Lifts upto 5000 lbs,, with a max height of 487mm.
www.quickjacklift.co.uk
Lifts upto 5000 lbs,, with a max height of 487mm.
www.quickjacklift.co.uk
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Oh I SO have lift envy now!!! I want one!!!!!! Makes me think about selling mine and getting one of those so that I can lift the car in situ inside the garage - although I will still struggle for working space around it.
One thought, but down very decent tall axle stands, the lifts only have to fail once with you under the car. [emoji15]
One thought, but down very decent tall axle stands, the lifts only have to fail once with you under the car. [emoji15]
bigh
Club Member
Oh I SO have lift envy now!!! I want one!!!!!! Makes me think about selling mine and feting one of those so that I can lift the car in situ inside the garage - although I will still struggle for working space around it.
One thought, but down very decent tall axle stands, the lifts only have to fail once with you under the car. [emoji15]
The hydraulic system only raises & lowers the jack. You have two lock positions on them. Once in either of these positions, it is all held in place with a mechanical system. The hydraulic lines and pump can then be removed out of the way, and the car can the be left on the jacks indefinitely, so no other supports are required.
There is a good video on its operation on the company’s website.
Paul_S
Club Member
Actually, I've just been looking at the spec of the 2 and I'm not sure the BL-5000SLX will fit between the wheels of the 240Z.
If you watch this video, the whole length of the lift needs to go between the wheels:
The BL-5000SLX's overall frame length is 1778 mm (the BL-3500SLX's is 1575 mm). I'll go and measure my 240Z...
If you watch this video, the whole length of the lift needs to go between the wheels:
The BL-5000SLX's overall frame length is 1778 mm (the BL-3500SLX's is 1575 mm). I'll go and measure my 240Z...
Paul_S
Club Member
OK, so on my 240Z the sill length is 150cm, and at sill height the distance between the wheels is 168cm.
So, the BL-5000SLX will be OK once the car is in the air, but I'm not 100% sure you will have enough wiggle room to position the ramps under the sill so it lifts at the right point (bearing in mind that the ramps don't go straight up and down).
From their website:
(A) Minimum Collapsed Height 3" / 76 mm.
(G) Rubber Lift Block Position - Max. 60" / 1524 mm.
(I) Overall Frame Length 70" / 1778 mm.
At 76mm off the ground (the collapsed height of the ramp) the distance between my wheels is 190cm.
Can someone clever work out if that will be OK?!
So, the BL-5000SLX will be OK once the car is in the air, but I'm not 100% sure you will have enough wiggle room to position the ramps under the sill so it lifts at the right point (bearing in mind that the ramps don't go straight up and down).
From their website:
(A) Minimum Collapsed Height 3" / 76 mm.
(G) Rubber Lift Block Position - Max. 60" / 1524 mm.
(I) Overall Frame Length 70" / 1778 mm.
At 76mm off the ground (the collapsed height of the ramp) the distance between my wheels is 190cm.
Can someone clever work out if that will be OK?!
bigh
Club Member
Yes Paul, the 3500 would easily lift the 240, but only just be capable of lifting a standard family hatchback (VW Golf etc)
bigh
Club Member
Yes the blocks, have a lot of movement in the ‘tray’ sections either end of the lifts.
I have measured the o/a length of the ramps, once they start ascending, the length doesn’t decrease much as they move upwards.
I should know for definite tomorrow, if they will work/fit by lifting on the sill/seams.
Maybe the length of the platforms won’t interfere with the tyres, if I were try to lift on the floor/rails?
I have measured the o/a length of the ramps, once they start ascending, the length doesn’t decrease much as they move upwards.
I should know for definite tomorrow, if they will work/fit by lifting on the sill/seams.
Maybe the length of the platforms won’t interfere with the tyres, if I were try to lift on the floor/rails?
toopy
Club Member
Use the floors as close to the sills as possible, as Alik does with his lift, I've never seen any photos of one of these cars hoisted up in the air on the sills, and never use the rails, they are not intended to be structural, but rather just to strengthen and stiffen the floor pans.